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  #1  
Old 02-17-2012, 10:49 PM
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Engine Ran Dry of Oil

I just pulled one of the stupidest stunts I've ever done. I changed the oil in my beautiful 1982 Mercedes 300TD wagon. Forgot to put the gasket on the oil filter cover. I drove it while, unknowingly, it blew oil in the engine compartment.

At some point, the engine began to tap really badly (sounded like a bad valve or valves).

I turned it off immediately. Replaced the gasket. Re-filled oil, but too late. The tapping was still there. Engine wobbles intermittently but badly.

I'm guessing that it's a bad valve (or valves). If someone had to take a totally wild-ass guess, how much would you think it would my mechanic would charge to fix this engine?

I'm guessing the total cost would be between 2k and 3k. Does that sound about right? If it winds up being an engine replacement, how much does that cost?

Just trying to get a sense of how bad I should beat myself over the head (which I obviously have no need for).

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  #2  
Old 02-17-2012, 10:54 PM
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I'm afraid the news is not good. It's not likely to be just a bad valve. You're probably looking at engine replacement. How many miles did you drive it without oil? Best bet is probably a used engine. A rebuilt long block will run around $5k I think plus installation.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13
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  #3  
Old 02-17-2012, 10:54 PM
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Valves are rarely the first part to suffer from lack of oil. Usually a connecting rod bearing is the first to go.
But talk to your mechanic.
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  #4  
Old 02-17-2012, 10:57 PM
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Sob....

I suppose I should get the baseball bat out. I drove it probably five miles before I caught it.

What sort of damage do you think I might have incurred?
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  #5  
Old 02-17-2012, 11:08 PM
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Main and rod bearings, wrist pins, cylinders and pistons. My bet is that all that oil blew out almost immediately and most of your driving was with no oil in the sump.

You have nothing to lose at this point, you might as well drive it and see what happens- How much oil it burns, what temp it runs at and if it's down on power. Keep listening to the knock for any worsening. Ultimately you're probably looking at a replacement.
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  #6  
Old 02-17-2012, 11:12 PM
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I don't see much of a point in running it longer. I suppose the mechanic can give me the laundry list when I tow it there.
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  #7  
Old 02-18-2012, 12:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefRider View Post
You have nothing to lose at this point, you might as well drive it and see what happens...
X2. If it will run, drive it and see what you got.

I changed the oil on my wife's car. She got in and drove it to the store and back (3 miles each way). The oil filter gasket failed about 4 car lengths out of the garage and all the oil was out in another 4 car lengths. I replaced the filter and oil. When we put it out to pasture 150,000 miles later, the engine still ran fine and did not need oil added between changes. However, that car was not a diesel.
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2012 S350 BlueTEC 4Matic
2007 ML 320 CDI
2007 Leisure Travel Serenity
2006 Sprinter 432k
2005 E320 CDI
1998 SLK230 (teal)
1998 SLK230 (silver)
1996 E300D 99k, 30k on WVO
Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
1991 350SDL 249k, 56k on WVO - Retired to a car spa in Phoenix
1983 380 SEC w/603 diesel, 8k on WVO
1996 E300D 351k, 177k on WVO
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2012, 12:13 AM
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probably a damaged piston or 5 !
Did you notice the lack of oil pressure?
I would not be pulling it down just yet. If it has good oil pressure when refilled with oil, it should be right for a while.
If it now has bad blow-by, it will need work soon.
A second hand motor is probably your best option if it is bad.
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1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving
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  #9  
Old 02-18-2012, 04:53 AM
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What part of the country are you located?

Charlie
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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
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Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works
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  #10  
Old 02-18-2012, 07:48 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danashields View Post
I don't see much of a point in running it longer. I suppose the mechanic can give me the laundry list when I tow it there.
Why tow it? Does it still run? With a sump of oil, you won't do any further damage, and as others have said, your best bet will be a replacement engine, not a rebuild of what you have. A good running 617 should be much cheaper than rebuilding yours.

The first order of business is to see what you can salvage from this- the best case is that you have oil pressure, and the engine runs, albeit with a knock. It could run like this for a long time, allowing you use of the vehicle while saving for/finding a replacement engine. Don't be in a rush to the mechanic. You know there is damage, but really it is less important what the damage is than functionality of the vehicle.
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  #11  
Old 02-18-2012, 07:53 AM
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Used 300TD engine

PM sent

I know where a running used 300TD (yes, I know the trunk badges) engine is for sale; about 200K miles seller claims. I haven't seen it start nor run, but he claims it does.
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  #12  
Old 02-18-2012, 07:59 AM
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I disagree that he can do no more damage. If he has not thrown a rod, that could be the reason for the shaking, he can.

Violent shaking is not a good sign.
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  #13  
Old 02-18-2012, 09:24 AM
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Yeah. I already feel stupid enough having driven it bone dry. To take it all the way down seems worse. My signal was that when I added more oil and put the gasket on, it still knocked really badly, that it probably didn't want to be driven even more.

I'll just tow it down to the mechanics and get it surveyed. I live in Atlanta, GA (someone asked about my location).
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  #14  
Old 02-18-2012, 09:33 AM
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If you take a video, post it on youtube and link it here, you'll get a lot better information about it's condition. In fact, it's probably better to get three or four opinions on here based on a video than one opinion in person.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Last edited by kerry; 02-18-2012 at 09:57 AM.
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  #15  
Old 02-18-2012, 09:32 PM
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I'm very sorry to hear of your loss, and I hope it can be put right without too much money.

Although it is too late for danashields, I recommend that when oil and filter are changed, be sure to run for several minutes with hood up and check for leaks and mistakes. Be sure to check anything you touched - the drain plug, the filter assembly, the oil filler cap.

I know I've made my fair share of mistakes while repairing cars. At least you didn't do anything that compromised the safety of you and your family.

Sincerely,

PE

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