Cheap Water Injection - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Renntag · #16 02-23-2012, 01:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

So what happens to the water container and hoses/pump etc when the car sits overnight in 5F weather?

Well that's easy, much like washer fluid, using alcohol, in this case Methanol, keeps the water from freezing.

Easy !

bmwpowere36m3 · #17 02-23-2012, 09:38 AM

Windshield washer fluid is good for W/M injection, 100% water is good < water/meth mix is better.

pdrayton · #18 02-23-2012, 03:38 PM

I've run through 1.5 gallons of WI, and I swear the engine is turning over faster when cranking. It was really struggling to turn over before, but seems much 'looser' now. Makes me wonder how badly my engine was coked....

ROLLGUY · #19 02-23-2012, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdrayton

I've run through 1.5 gallons of WI, and I swear the engine is turning over faster when cranking. It was really struggling to turn over before, but seems much 'looser' now. Makes me wonder how badly my engine was coked....

It may just be psychological, but I am sure WI works wonders. The price for 1.5 gallons (and the system) is a small price to pay for a great running engine! Keep in mind, you should be using distilled water (or R/O will work).

pdrayton · #20 02-23-2012, 07:39 PM

Yep, using R/O water.

CANDIDE · #21 02-27-2012, 05:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Renntag

Great thread.

2 things I'd like to mention. I use Water Injection on a 6.5 TD to intercool the air charge for better towing performance.

I used a 90* pipe fitting at the intake inlet, not a mister nozzle. Imagine dumping the contents of a bottle of water out the window at 50mph. It atomizes instantly. The column of air entering the intake is hot and moving fast, enough to turn the water into vapour.

I also used a small ball valve to throttle down the water flow from the pump, testing it by measuring volume to time. I did so by seeing how long it takes to fill to 8 ounces in a clear container. Looking for 32oz/minute, it should take 15 seconds. This wasnt a perfect test as my container wasnt under 10-15psi pressure, with a relief valve to allow air out.

To control the system, I used a Hobbs switch threaded into an 1/8" npt hole I drilled/tapped into the intake. Watching a boost gauge, I drove the burb to make boost and watched at what point the switch activated a light. I adjusted the switch until the correct pressure trigger was achieved.

Two keys necessary for this project on any vehicle are boost and pyrometer gauges. They dont need to be permanently installed, but are needed to calibrate the system. Seeing that the system engages at the proper pressure, and EGTs (Exhaust Gas Temps) drop by 3-400*F will prove that its working. At that point, the gauges can be removed, but some may prefer to keep an eye on boost and EGT.

If anyone has access to a very small inspection camera, perhaps they might wish to look inside one of these OM diesels before and after water injection to measure effectiveness of steam cleaning benefit without tear down.

Maybe testing two motors, one with EGR eliminated, one with out.

I'm also interested in adding water injection.
Are you actually injecting a quart of water every minute?
Based on 32oz every minute...
A one hour drive on the freeway (assuming turbo boost all the way ) would consume 15 gallons of water.
It seems like more water than fuel is being consumed.

gregp1962 · #22 05-30-2012, 02:15 PM

I'm going to be installing water injection on my 1984 617 turbo. I think I'll use the EGR port. Should I be worried about the fact that the EGR port is so much closer to Cyl #1 than the other cylinders?

ROLLGUY · #23 05-30-2012, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gregp1962

I'm going to be installing water injection on my 1984 617 turbo. I think I'll use the EGR port. Should I be worried about the fact that the EGR port is so much closer to Cyl #1 than the other cylinders?

Check out:
Water injection again
If it is done this way, the small amount of water will be vaporized before getting near #1. The amount of water I am injecting using this method is a little less than what is injected through the stock jet (made for a 4 cyl) that came with the Coolingmist kit I got. It is still plenty of water to do the job.

SirNik84 · #24 05-30-2012, 07:22 PM

years ago I read this site. they have a whole set up you can piece together yourself
Do It Yourself Water Alcohol Methanol Injection

funola · #25 04-09-2015, 08:48 PM

Got this idea from GregMN. Short length of 1/8" o.d copper pipe soldered to drilled out 1/8 NPT barb fitting, business end crimped to restrict flow and produce a fine powerful stream . Driven by a windshield washer pump, this video is for testing the stream https://youtu.be/mjsDWJvCgIY .
When blasted against the wall of the inlet manifold neck, the water stream will break up, further "atomizes" before being inducted into the combustion chamber where it turns into steam and do its magic of cleaning.

Drilled, tapped and installed in my VW 1.6 TD. That's 1/4" o.d vinyl tubing (0.170 i.d.) fastened to the copper pipe with bicycle inner tube rubber band clamp.After use in the VW, I plan to use it on my 85 300D.

This was really easy to make and didn't cost anything since I had all the parts. Before I decided to use the washer pump, I bought a HF 50 psi pump but the windshield washer pump in the VW actually puts out a stronger stream than the HF pump (must be a crappy pump) and makes the install so much easier- a no brainer. I will remove the wipers and use the washer pump stalk to manually actuate the pump.

Have not actually run it yet and hope it works well. I will post a follow up.

dieselbenz1 · #26 04-10-2015, 02:40 AM

Wondering how you measure success? Will you do a compression test before and after maybe a tangable measure? Nice to quantify the results!

funola · #27 04-10-2015, 10:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieselbenz1

Wondering how you measure success? Will you do a compression test before and after maybe a tangable measure? Nice to quantify the results!

Main reason for water injection is to lower oil consumption, which is approx 1 qt/ 1000 miles, engine runs great and get 43 to 45 MPG. Compression is good since it always starts on the first crank on the coldest days around here- I installed a block heater in it a few years ago and never had to use it. Another metric, taking compression before and after would be useful. I may do that on cylinders 2,3,4's glow plug holes since those are easy to access and I can do them in less than 30 minutes.

dieselbenz1 · #28 04-10-2015, 01:22 PM

Those 1.6td's are awesome engines must be about the same vintage as your 300d. I retired a 1.6td with over 600km on it very rusty body and the second transaxle went south. Engine was strong still got 55 mpg combined highway city. I look forward to your results.

funola · #29 04-10-2015, 03:50 PM

55 mpg is that imperial gallon? If so that's 45 in US gal.

Yes great engine. Mine's a 92 Ecodiesel. Got it at 179k for $800 (it's at 226k now). PO did not take good care of the car. Was losing coolant (vented out of expansion tank). Had to do a head gasket and it's been fine since. Head was not warped beyond spec so it wasn't overheated that bad by the PO. Oil consumption has been the same since acquired.

I thought 2,3,4 is easy but only 3 & 4 is easy. 1 & 2 is behind the IP so I did only 3 & 4.

Engine hot:
#4 500 psi https://youtu.be/p5VTvdbSBKw

#3 540 psi https://youtu.be/EWvmJez3tPY

spock505 · #30 04-10-2015, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Got this idea from GregMN. Short length of 1/8" copper pipe soldered to drilled out 1/8 NPT barb fitting, business end crimped to restrict flow and produce a fine powerful stream . Driven by a windshield washer pump, this video is for testing the stream https://youtu.be/mjsDWJvCgIY .
When blasted against the wall of the inlet manifold neck, the water stream will break up, further atomizes before being inducted into the combustion chamber where it turns into steam and do its magic of cleaning.

Drilled, tapped and installed in my VW 1.6 TD. After use in the VW, I plan to use it on my 85 300D.

This was really easy to make and didn't cost anything since I had all the parts. Before I decided to use the washer pump, I bought a HF 50 psi pump but the windshield washer pump in the VW actually puts out a stronger stream than the HF pump (must be a crappy pump) and makes the install so much easier- a no brainer. I will remove the wipers and use the washer pump stalk to manually actuate the pump.

Have not actually run it yet and hope it works well. I will post a follow up.

Does non-atomized water not collect in the manifold or is it hot enough for vaporization?

Just thinking about hydrolocking.