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  #16  
Old 03-20-2012, 12:01 PM
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Update - the recession is over!

I got a real go away and leave us alone quote from the local CNC boys...

...they want 80 euros for 4 bump stops.

It might be quicker to finish that "build your own lathe" project I started a few months back.

To be continued.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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  #17  
Old 03-22-2012, 01:41 PM
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Recession is well and truly over - I just got a second quote in for 95 euros for 4 of those little stops...

Time to build that lathe me thinks. I can get some good bits for that for 95 euros.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #18  
Old 03-22-2012, 04:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Recession is well and truly over - I just got a second quote in for 95 euros for 4 of those little stops...

Time to build that lathe me thinks. I can get some good bits for that for 95 euros.

Army,let me check if I understand correctly...they asked 95e for 4 small plastic (stop) pieces


.
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Last edited by cho; 03-22-2012 at 05:01 PM.
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  #19  
Old 03-23-2012, 09:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cho View Post
Army,let me check if I understand correctly...they asked 95e for 4 small plastic (stop) pieces


.
Now perhaps you see why I was surprised when you thought I might be able to get you a good second hand IP!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #20  
Old 03-23-2012, 10:48 AM
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.

man...that is just crazy ....

is the lathe necessary, can it be done by plain plaster as a mold and
some plastic melted in... as a quick workaround?

is it hard or flexible plastic piece?
.
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  #21  
Old 03-23-2012, 11:55 AM
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I would think that this is a perfect application for a DIY urethane casting process. From what I can tell from your pictures this is a pretty hard material that is designed to cushion any end contact.

If we look at the following hardness chart, the Polyurethanes would seem to be an ideal material and I would just guess that something in the range of a Shore-a 90 would be about right.



I used Shore-a 70 urethane in pouring my motor mount support inserts, subframe support inserts and transmission mount support inserts. This stuff is pretty hard but still has quite a bit of give.

There are many different ways to create a mold from a good part e.g. machining aluminum, but I think that this part could easily be done using a silicone rubber mold made directly from a good original part.

YouTube is a good place to start to understand the process and I would just suggest the following video as a pretty good conceptual one.

Machining & Casting an Aluminum Mold for Smooth-On Urethane Rubber (Part 1 of 2) - YouTube

Machining & Casting an Aluminum Mold for Smooth-On Urethane Rubber (Part 2 of 2) - YouTube (Part2)

Then just search for one on using silicone rubber molds for another technique.

In fact, in your particular case, because it looks like the piece is staked in, I would consider making a silicone mold of the axle end with a good bumper piece in place, then drill out the old bumper. Then carefully cut the end of the silicone mold to provide a pour hole for the urethane. To create your bumper, just place the mold over the end of the axle and pour the urethane into the void where you just removed the old bumper.
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Looking for a part that goes within my W123 300D axle-hardness2.jpg  
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  #22  
Old 03-23-2012, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cho View Post
.

man...that is just crazy ....

is the lathe necessary, can it be done by plain plaster as a mold and
some plastic melted in... as a quick workaround?

is it hard or flexible plastic piece?
.
It is a hard plastic - a little bit softer than those white plastic hammers I guess.

Anyway I've got some bits and bobs in the garage and I had a play about this afternoon and I've more or less got a quick lathe solution. It won't be pretty! I'll post up some horror pictures when I'm done.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #23  
Old 03-23-2012, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mach4 View Post
I would think that this is a perfect application for a DIY urethane casting process. From what I can tell from your pictures this is a pretty hard material that is designed to cushion any end contact.

If we look at the following hardness chart, the Polyurethanes would seem to be an ideal material and I would just guess that something in the range of a Shore-a 90 would be about right.



I used Shore-a 70 urethane in pouring my motor mount support inserts, subframe support inserts and transmission mount support inserts. This stuff is pretty hard but still has quite a bit of give.

There are many different ways to create a mold from a good part e.g. machining aluminum, but I think that this part could easily be done using a silicone rubber mold made directly from a good original part.

YouTube is a good place to start to understand the process and I would just suggest the following video as a pretty good conceptual one.

Machining & Casting an Aluminum Mold for Smooth-On Urethane Rubber (Part 1 of 2) - YouTube

Machining & Casting an Aluminum Mold for Smooth-On Urethane Rubber (Part 2 of 2) - YouTube (Part2)

Then just search for one on using silicone rubber molds for another technique.

In fact, in your particular case, because it looks like the piece is staked in, I would consider making a silicone mold of the axle end with a good bumper piece in place, then drill out the old bumper. Then carefully cut the end of the silicone mold to provide a pour hole for the urethane. To create your bumper, just place the mold over the end of the axle and pour the urethane into the void where you just removed the old bumper.
Thank you very much for the information. I reckon they could indeed be made this way.

I'm guessing that the end stops are about as hard as those white nylon hammer heads - probably a bit softer. According to this source

Hardness Comparisons of Hammer Material

that's a little bit harder than Urethane.

I've probably got enough bits and bobs in the garage to rig up a quick and dirty lathe so for now I'm going to try and get it done that way.

I will, however, have a go at the casting later to see how the two processes compare.

Thanks again.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #24  
Old 03-23-2012, 04:59 PM
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Hmm

Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
Anyway I've got some bits and bobs in the garage and I had a play about this afternoon and I've more or less got a quick lathe solution. It won't be pretty! I'll post up some horror pictures when I'm done.
How to build a simple Wood Lathe

Make your own Lathe from other peoples rubbish

A Homebuilt Metal Cutting Lathe

http://www.manytracks.com/lathe/lathe.pdf

Build Your Own Lathe, Milling Machine and Attachments

Gingery Series: Metalworking Shop from Scrap

Building a Flywheel Lathe

Home Made Lathe.

Macguyver's Workshop: Build your own metal lathe from junk

build a cheap lathe - Google Search

build a cheap lathe - Google Search
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  #25  
Old 03-23-2012, 05:15 PM
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Here's a couple more

Open Source Lathe - Open Source Ecology
Open Source Machine
http://xa.yimg.com/kq/groups/13335163/1942903983/name/MM++lathe+How+to+Build21a.pdf

And if you're looking for something to do with those old diesel blocks-

https://www.engineeringforchange.org/news/2011/04/23/diy_machine_shop_four_essential_tools_you_can_build_from_recycled_parts.html



And one more...

multimachine : Open Source machine tools

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Looking for a part that goes within my W123 300D axle-lathe1.jpg  
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  #26  
Old 03-24-2012, 06:28 AM
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Wow thanks for the links folks - I should be able to improve on my "not as eccentric as I thought design"!

I'm not planning on doing too much work - I've already bought a good second hand head stock with a 3 jaw chuck. This will be used for the lathe proper when I get round to doing it... I just want to get this monkey off my back first and see a bit of progress. So for now I'm just rigging up pullies and belts and a "thing" to hold a chisel in place. I'll make these plastic inserts and then probably dismantle my temporary set up.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #27  
Old 03-25-2012, 05:22 PM
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Urathane is a great product.

Have you checked the facet washer plumbing section of your local hardware store ? That rubber piece sure looks like one.

With the continuing recession there are still metal shops going out of business that have very good deals on working equipment.
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  #28  
Old 03-26-2012, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TnBob View Post
Urathane is a great product.

Have you checked the facet washer plumbing section of your local hardware store ? That rubber piece sure looks like one.

With the continuing recession there are still metal shops going out of business that have very good deals on working equipment.
Thanks Bob I'll look into the plumbing possibilities too just in case there's a quicker fix for others...

I got most of the temporary lathe fixture up and running yesterday - I spent a fair amount of time making a guard for the V-belt 'cos I just don't trust myself around too many spinning objects => I'm a bit like the Mk1 Terminator I get confused by too much electrical / mechanical noise!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #29  
Old 04-03-2012, 01:30 PM
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Heath Robbinson home made lathe

Progress update!

Well it worked.

Here's a picture of the home made lathe. As I said before I had some bits in the garage that helped.



As you see I spent a bit of time making a guard for the V belt at the back. The electric 220V motor I'm using is a hand held plaster / cement mixer. It has a two speed gear box that allows you to run up 300 rpm or 650 rpm. I've been running at 300 rpm - as I didn't want to find out if I could burn the plastic rods I've been turning.

Would this design work for wood?

Yes.

Would this design work for plastic?

Yes

Would it work for metal?

Forget it!

Here's a picture of the mixer and an OM617 (what else?) alternator pulley borrowed for the exercise.



And here's a close up of the bolt system I made so that I can adjust the tension on the V belt.



This is only a temporary fixture - I'll probably be changing it a bit when it gets turned into my IP test bench - but for that I'm going to have to get a faster spinning motor...
Attached Thumbnails
Looking for a part that goes within my W123 300D axle-my-home-made-lathe1.jpg   Looking for a part that goes within my W123 300D axle-my-home-made-lathe-powered-mixer.jpg   Looking for a part that goes within my W123 300D axle-my-home-made-lathe-belt-adjustment-bolts.jpg  
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #30  
Old 04-03-2012, 01:36 PM
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Very nice...

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