Looking for a part that goes within my W123 300D axle
 

G'day Folks,

The dealer is stumped - and I can't see it on the Russian EPC (EverythingBenz - Mercedes-Benz Forum and Web Search Using Google)...

...but there is mention of their existence in the FSM (Chapter 35-660 page 4 of the PDF) => LOOK =>

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1331127121

I want them there rubber buffer ends!

Has anyone got a part number for 'em?

Has anyone ever replaced them?




I've gone for the deep strip option for some spare axles - perhaps I'm trying to go too far?

There is a firm that had a good reputation rebuilding these axles but has ceased doing them now I think. They may have an existing supply of those parts.

It will take some other member to remember who they are but someone will mention them I hope. Drop them a note.

As far as I can gather from the EPC, these rubber buffers are part of the repair kit. A2013500537. They don't have a seperate part number.

Thanks Govert - eeeek that's an expensive repair kit if I remember correctly...

Searching for that part number on google comes up with Febi alternatives that I know don't have those bits in them though. Also that particular part number contains the bolts for the newer style axles not the old homokinetic ones I've got...

@Barry123400

Think Barry think!

A number of years ago I rebuilt two good axles out of 4 that each had one bad CV picked up from a scrap yard for a song. It is a simple job to strip them but I would say a "Fly" or Hydraulic press is way to go if you need to replace an inner spider. However I know of those who have succeeded with a brass drift and a 2kg hammer!

The original buffers are plastic and I destroyed some pressing off the inner spider. I turned new ones up out of a piece of nylon bar – glued and peened them in. If you leave them out the outer end of the shaft can sometimes knock on the outer spider when cornering, rather annoying - don't ask how I know!

I checked MB for spares long ago without success.

Bugger - thanks for that Beagle. I'll look into the nylon repair route as well... it looks like I really have to crack on with my making my own lathe project again...

Remember if you remove the spiders from the shaft that they must
be assembled rotated at 60° to each other. Also replace the drive-shafts to opposite sides of the car.

But I'm sure someone with your insight will realize that anyway:).

I have to ask. What do you mean with this statement?

There's a trick that if you've done XXXXXX miles with the axles in one position, then you can get the "same amount of miles" (perhaps?) running them on the other axle because on the other side of the car the main running face of the spider and the ball bearings is now on the other side.

Here's a picture of a naked W123 axle!

I've cut the cans away so you can see what it looks like inside

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1331143877

When the axle is fitted to the differential (on this end of the axle) the ball bearings press for most of the time into one side of the spider. Swapping it to the other side of the car means the ball bearings push (for most of the time) into the other side of the spider...


DIY is on its way so long as I come up with a solution for these pesky buffers

Thanks for the warning - for me and for others!

Army and Beagle --- Thanks for the explanation!!!

Have you tried the shops that specialize in rebuilding CV joints? Aftermarket spiders, cans and boots used to be widely available there though some would be reluctant to sell as they prefer to take your $$ and do the job themselves. I never did ask them about the buffers.

I was careful when I split the can and reused the old ones by brazing the joint back together.

I no of no shops like that here - I'll have a look around but I'd be surprised if any are still in business. It's not really economically viable doing this job yourself! I can't see there being any profit for someone who isn't allowed to own slaves... just look at the price of those crappy cheapo axles that apparently don't last.

Rough costs for axle parts here in Holland:-

Febi kit for a "back to original" type repair (spider off and thicker boots install) ~ from 20 euros per side - I have seen as much as 40 euros being asked

Dealer parts ~ 65 euros per side

Flexx boot fix - from about 15 euros a side (and then you need strong fingers and a cone or a pneumatic gun)

So if you repair your own axles you are going to spend from 30 euros an axle to 130 euros an axle (without enough grease / oil); and you still need to get some sort of equipment to help you do the job...


...compared with a quick exchange solution of about 75 euros for a "new" axle.


I can see why people choose the less hassle option. Unfortunately these free market choices have done little to help small engineering firms from going bust - which in turn makes it harder for DIYers to get the bits.

I've just been in touch with Phil on fastlane and it looks like this part is destined for the unobtainium list.

Phil came up with the same part number posted up by Govert in post #3. According to my sources it isn't even available from the dealer anymore and I'm not 100% sure if it ever had the rubber stops and the retaining spring anyway.

Febi and GKN are peddling a kit that can be found on their web sites (by plumbing in that part number) but they both don't have the rubber stops in their versions of the kit.

It's out!
 

Here are some pictures of the bump stop:-

1) In flattened state

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1331395806

2) How it should look

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1331395820

3) Ignoring the FSM and just drilling the stop out - quite soft really - no trouble for a blunt HSS drill bit!

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1331395878

4) Stop removed

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1331395970

5) Inside the end of the axle (after the stop is gone)

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...1&d=1331396025



Next stage - measure the holes and make up a drawing for the local machine shop (can't wait for my build my own lathe project to get done)

I'll post up the CAD drawing when I know the bits I've had made fit!