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  #1  
Old 03-09-2012, 12:28 PM
eatont9999's Avatar
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Location: Dallas, TX
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Interior Swap - Need help quick!

Hey fellas,

I am going to start pulling interior parts from a 83 500SEL to be used in my 300SD. The seats are cloth and the interior trim, etc looked pretty good from what I saw in the pictures. Anything is an improvement to what I have now. I have heard that the rear door panels on the SEL won't fit the SD. I'm not too worried about that since the color is the same. My main motivation for this is my arse is tired of sitting on a busted seat that is so nasty it requires seat covers.

I need help from the community here as far as how to pull trim, the dash and the door panels without breaking things. I would be very grateful for any help or links. I will keep searching on my own but I need help as time is short. I meet the seller tomorrow at 2PM.

Mercedes W126 1983-1989 SEL Parting Out

Thanks again!
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #2  
Old 03-09-2012, 12:55 PM
eatont9999's Avatar
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I will document what I find as well.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=10&cts=1331315722528&ved=0CIQBEBYwCQ&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w124performance.com%2Fservice%2FW126%2Fw126CD2%2Fprogram%2FChassis%2F68-110.pdf&ei=6kFaT8P8Baj1sQLlp4yJCQ&usg=AFQjCNFU7y5t5MSTMCgLYAgVEK2mlQLAeg&sig2=FDqvzrdXxtMkbDK2E8HXhQ

I probably won't need to do this part if I take the whole dash, right?
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #3  
Old 03-09-2012, 01:56 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
Posts: 1,382
Don't take this the wrong way, OK?

I just did a swap from an 86 420 SEL to an 84 SD. I got the seats front and back, dash, front door panels, console, and front carpets, seatbelt vertical pilasters and everything else that fit. You also might consider checking your vacuum system while you are in there.

This project you are undertaking does not allow for taking something out of the donor and putting it in the recipient. The dash comes out last and goes in first.

1. Learn to use the search function on this site and get familiar with the DYI section here. If you get stuck and need help often you will find getting information from DYI and search is the fastest solution.

Is there anyway you can get these two cars side by side?

A. Front seats, battery on the donor to move the seats back and forth to get to the bolts.

B. Rear seats. makes it easy to lay down and stretch out for under the dash work. Its also a good place to put the bucket for fasteners and small plastic parts.

C. Console. Start with the Ashtray then radio then wood panel

D Steering wheel. That makes the dash come out easier. Trust me.

E. Covers that attach to bottom of dash above both d/s and p/s footwells.

F. Vents sections above those covers that furnish air to footwells and doors

G. Dash gauge Cluster

H. Plastic 'door,' mounted in the dash where you stick the key in to start the car.

I. Drop steering column. Be careful, you can prevent the ignition from ripping out the bottom of the dash by pulling that part of the dash gently forward.

Remember, everything you are removing has been there for 30 years. I don't want to provide a disclaimer but use your eyes and good judgement. If I'v made a mistake I don't want you to pay for it by thinking I'm the go to guy. I'v done this once and to those here who know much more about this project please take time to correct me where I'm in error.

Here is where you start. DIY Links by Parts Category - PeachParts Mercedes ShopForum

I'll work on my memory of taking out the dash and post it tonight.

Good luck.
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  #4  
Old 03-09-2012, 01:59 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
Posts: 1,382
No sir, you don't.

Those wooden panels are easier to do on the coffee table in your living room.

Can you tell I'm not married yet?
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  #5  
Old 03-09-2012, 03:43 PM
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I am searching the site. I found a few articles on door panels. I think the hardest part of this job is going to be finding all the hidden screws. The dash looks like it unscrews from the top with some alan bolts.

I do need a new cluster but this car is a gasser and mine is a Diesel. I hear the rear end ratios are different and the speedo will read too high. Funny thing is, I already have that problem. 80=62MPh in my car.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #6  
Old 03-09-2012, 05:17 PM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
Posts: 1,382
Yeah, after you have the console, steering, cluster and vent system out. The three allen head bolts on the top of the dash, the vent controls behind the dash and about another handful of stuff that has to come off first. Trying to conceive this entire job is like getting a sip of water from a fire hydrant. Getting an overall concept of what is about to transpire is not a bad idea either.

Yep, you'll need a speedometer for the SD
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  #7  
Old 03-09-2012, 06:57 PM
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Location: Middle TN
Posts: 3,546
Take the cluster anyway if it is inexpensive. You may find some good gears that will swap to yours.

Take everything related to the dash - dash, console, ashtray, vents under the dash. Your reason is that parts look similar at 1st glance but must stay together else they don't fit.

89 climate control is different. I don't know about the radio but I missed an aesthetically perfect Becker. What about the antenna, cruise or alarm modules? Extra parts are useful.

Get the vacuum pods & connecting links. Many times, only 1 diaphragm in the dual pods goes bad. You may take 2 & make 1 good one. Be sure the pod is one that can be changed without pulling the dash if you go this route.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting. 84SD 180,000. Thinking of painting both.
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  #8  
Old 03-10-2012, 09:57 AM
Shadetree
 
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Back in SC upstate
Posts: 1,382
eatont9999,

I strongly suggest you strip your car before the donor. As you learn how not to break things you will be breaking things that you can replace from the donor. Don't get ahead of yourself.

I have two of these 126s cars. The interior of one is almost complete and the other has some of the footwell panels removed so I will be able to take some photo that will help you.

If you need to talk about this PM me and I'll give you my phone number.
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  #9  
Old 03-12-2012, 12:49 PM
eatont9999's Avatar
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Location: Dallas, TX
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Well, I picked some parts from the car on Saturday. I decided not to take the dash because it was cracked worse than the pictures show. I think I might just get one of those glue-on carpets for mine until I find a perfect dash. Someone already had dibs on the radio and climate control. Since the trim was not as perfect as I thought and it was burl wood instead of Zebra wood, I only took the glove box door. It is mis-matched but looks a lot nicer than one missing the wood and a broken latch. I swapped in my handle so the lock would match the key. I also got a couple of dash pods to keep as spares and the vacuum switch array. He threw in the rear window for free, so I have a spare one. I also took the reservoir tank to replace mine.

The seats are in great condition. I installed the two front seats this weekend. I don't think I can use the rear seat because it was electric and the mounts are different. My rear seat has a release lever where the new seat was bolted down. There is just no way that I see to attach them properly. I am holding onto my old seats for a little while so I can pull the motors and gears out of them. The new driver's seat gears are stripped but working just enough for now.

The car looks 10x better inside now that there are nice seats and a better glove box installed. I might keep my door panels if I can replace some of the broken switches. I still need a hood star, though.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #10  
Old 03-12-2012, 12:52 PM
eatont9999's Avatar
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Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 1,948
Oh, I also got two good check straps and used one to replace the broken strap in the passenger rear door.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
Reply With Quote
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