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  #31  
Old 03-29-2012, 04:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue View Post
It didn't appear bad in your video. However, if a visual inspection reveals oil saturated rubber, it probably wont be long.

Another item that probably needs to be addressed is how oil saturated the tie rod ends in that area. A likely suspect is the turbo drain grommet. This is an inexpensive repair and may be an easy task if not to dry rotted. It also has an added benefit of lowering oil consumption.
You are exactly right. I have a leaky turbo oil drain. I have a grommet sitting in my virtual shopping cart on fastlane.com along with all the other parts. It doesn't leak too bad but I still get a few drops here and there. It will be fixed at the same time the new steering parts go on so I do not continue damaging boots and seals from oil saturation.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #32  
Old 04-04-2012, 02:00 PM
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I got the shipment of parts. I'll start installing them tonight. Is there a torque spec on the tie rod end clamp or should I just use German specs?
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #33  
Old 04-05-2012, 01:16 PM
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That is a threaded end so all the clamp needs is just enough to keep it from falling off.
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84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
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  #34  
Old 04-05-2012, 03:13 PM
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Is there a spec for the tie rod ends to the wheel? They weren't on too tight. I busted them loose with my 3/8" ratchet pretty easily.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #35  
Old 04-06-2012, 06:07 PM
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I got the parts installed and the car aligned. Seems OK now. I still need to drive it some more to be sure but I think I am in the clear as far as my original shaking concern goes.

Thanks for all the help, fellas!
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
Reply With Quote
  #36  
Old 04-18-2012, 04:30 PM
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I got all the tie rods and steering dampener installed over a week ago. I got an alignment at one of the big tire retailers. MB wanted over $200 to do it.

I am noticing/have noticed a clunk as soon as I apply the brakes. I also get clunks and pops when accelerating or on large rolling bumps. I'll have to search the site or start a new thread for that crap.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #37  
Old 04-18-2012, 07:57 PM
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It might be your Guid Rod Mounts clunking.

PeachPartsWiki: Suspension Bearing Bracket guide rod mount replacement

Charlie
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  #38  
Old 04-18-2012, 11:46 PM
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Oh, geez! If Whunter dreads this job, I am screwed. How dangerous is it to drive the car in the condition it is in? I have to drive the car until I finish the turbo installation in the truck.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
Reply With Quote
  #39  
Old 04-19-2012, 12:27 PM
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Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
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Any part of the suspension that is worn will usually place undue stress on other parts. Worn guide rod mounts will give abnormal tire wear but the main factor is diminished control when braking. Which is one of those things that, in a severe situation, might be critical. It's your call, I'm just pointing out the apparent risks.

The guide rod mounts aren't that bad, especially since you aren't dealing with the rust issues that WHunter faces in Michigan.

Place the front end on ramps (which provides weight on the front wheels). I used a come-along to hold the suspension in place, front to rear, which helps in reinstallation of the bearing bracket bolts. Measure the threaded portion of the guide rod mounts to maintain your alignment. Unbolt the bearing bracket and remove the guide rod mounts.
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