Is there anyone who can post a picture of the under side of a W126 and point out these components? It's Greek to me, so explaining with words and technical terms gets me confused.

The ball joint I think is bad is on the driver's side of the steering dampener. It is a rather larger one, too. Any links to what this is called so I can buy a replacement?

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

I checked the passenger side for 3-9 play earlier this evening and boy howdy, was there a lot more play than the driver's side. About 2x as much! It seems like it is all coming from the ball joints attached to the tie rods. Pretty much anything attached to the steering gear box. I should probably replace all the ball joints associated. Does any one know if I can use a standard ball joint tool? I have read about a special tool but I don't know if it applies to these joints. If it does, then please post the part number so I can purchase it. Also, could someone be kind enough to list the part numbers for all the ball joints I need? I might as well do all of them while I have the car out of service. Why don't I see any grease nipples on any of these ball joints? I don't get it.

Thanks for all the help thus far!

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

All of the Ball Joint struggles are pretty well covered. You can get a Free Rental tool at Autozone and maybe some other places that will take care of busting the Tie Rod type Ball Joints loose.
The Ball Joint on the Steering Knuckle can cause problems getting it loose from the Lower Congtrol Arm and beating it out from the Steering Knuckle.
Best to do some serious reading on that.
You can use a Free Rental C-press from Autozone to Install the Large Ball Joint in the Steering Knuckle but you need to remove the Grease Boot and you need to use it with care as it is not so easy to keep it lined up.

I would go with Lemforder Ball Joints on the Steering Knuckle.
Ball Joints Differences and Tolerances (this is one of my threads)
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=275392

Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82

http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I found tie rod ball joints but I'm not sure if they are the same for the other components.

LEMFOERDER Ball Joint - Lower - Outer,W0133-1628145 - PeachParts

I also saw that I could buy the whole tie rod assembly for about the same as two ball joints from the same manufacturer. It looks like the tie rod assembly comes with ball joints already pressed in. That would save some headache, right? What are the pros and cons of just buying the whole assembly? Can someone link or list part numbers to any other lower ball joints I should replace (if I can get them out/in)?

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Someone else will have to chime in as I do not know much about 126s.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Here is a video I made yesterday evening showing me doing the 3-9 test on the passenger side.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXIuxbaTCwQ&list=UUX3YyyjeCyrrjETZIhZm95Q&index=1&feature=plcp

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

A lot of wear present there. It may have been so much that it was advisable to discontinue use of the car. Until at least the worse joints are changed as you did.

Hard to tell how close some of those ball joints are to falling apart. When a previous owner has let things get to this point it is wise to check the whole car over. Obviously if the front end components where ignored what else may have been. Examine the rubber disks on the ends of the driveshaft for fraying etc especially. The timing chain and chain sliders as well. Failure of those items you would not want to deal with either.

The ball joints you linked to in Fastlane are for the Lower Control Arms, not the steering.
From your video, here is what you are looking for:

PeachParts FastLane Mercedes Parts Store

You may be able to replace the tie rod ends but you will need to determine whether it is LH or RH thread. The way to do this is, if you are looking at the end of the rod, clockwise to tighten is RH thread. Keep in mind that replacing both ends of a rod is the same price as replacing the entire tie rod.
PeachParts FastLane Mercedes Parts Store

The best tool is a ball joint separator such as this: (type "universal ball joint separator" in the search box)
TOOL Page (¯`·.¸(¯`·.¸ ZDMAK SPECIAL TOOL STORE ¸.·´¯)¸.·´¯)

Some people will recommend a "pickle fork", but these destroy the rubber so I don't think they are best. The advantage of the ball joint separator is that the joint can be taken apart several times, with no damage. It's a lifetime tool.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

New upper control arms, new idler arm bushings, new damper arm bracket bushings, new lower control arm bushings, new tie rods, new drag arm, new steering damper, and a MB alignment......you wouldn't believe how nice the difference can be.....!

Thanks Roy, Phil and most especially the forum for the combined knowledge and wisdom that gave me the confidence to tackle this job!

Thanks for all the helpful info, guys.

Here's my plan: Buy all 3 tie rods with ball joints, etc already in them (same price as buying the ends) and buy (possibly rent at AZ?) the separator tool. The next step would be to uninstall my old rods and compare them to the new ones, making length adjustments as best I can to keep alignment close. Install new rods, etc, go to MB dealer for an alignment.

Does this sound like the path to take?

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

You might as well replace everything to be safe. I had to put about $800 in parts into mine when i got it, but now the front suspension is like new, rather than being so loose its scary to drive. Its not that difficult to do really.

It would be ideal to replace all steering and suspension components, install new wheel bearings, etc but I just don't have that kind of money to throw into an $850 car. At least not all at once. After this job, I think it will be good for a little while.

I am dreading the steering knuckle ball joint replacement. It looks like a royal PITA.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

Based upon my recent experience, I recommend that you replace the idler arm bushings first, then the tie rods / steering damper and drag rod. If you still have a few dollars, take a look at the upper control arms. If your budget holds, and your inner demon needs a workout, replace the damper rod bushings. Then go to the MB dealership and get your ride aligned.

But thats based upon exactly 1 time to this particular 1982 MB 300SD rodeo!

Idler arm repair kit.

http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1629430&itempk=77412&mfr=Febi&weight=1.35

Should I grab one of these as well? Is this the correct item?
I guess I should get the steering dampener while I'm at it.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

It didn't appear bad in your video. However, if a visual inspection reveals oil saturated rubber, it probably wont be long.

Another item that probably needs to be addressed is how oil saturated the tie rod ends in that area. A likely suspect is the turbo drain grommet. This is an inexpensive repair and may be an easy task if not to dry rotted. It also has an added benefit of lowering oil consumption.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )