Never tightening the nuts on the valve cover again without a torque wrench...

I'm just hoping that only the nut is stripped, which is what it looks like.

The nut is stuck on but moving freely, just won't move up or down.

Two questions:
1. Suggestions for nut removal?
Is a nut splitter really necessary? The only place I can find where I can get to nearby that seems to have one is Ace Hardware and there's a bad review saying that theirs broke right the first time they tried to use it.
Though about trying to use a dremel with a cutting disc and being veeerrry careful not to go all the way through the nut but then if I go too far I'm in an even worse situation...

2. What size nut should I replace it with?
Read in one post that the threads are 8mmx1.25 (and obvi the 13mm head). Is this correct?

Actually the Ace may not even have it. And it's $30 for a tool that I'm hoping I won't need again

This has happend before and there should be some removal methods in some threads.

I cannot remember the details;

You can unscrew the whole Stud.

You can get something like a Screwdriver under the Nut lever up on the Nut and slowly turn it out..
With more care a Screwdriver could but stuck between the Valve Cover and the Head and used to put upward pressure under the nut as you slowly turn it.
Often the upward pressure allows the Nut to turn off.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Be careful with the surface of the rocker cover - one slip now and your eye will be drawn to the damage every time you look at the engine.

Have you tried long nosed grips and pulling upwards?

Sometimes - with patience - it works.

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Dremil type of tool on the side of the nut. Then bend it so it comes off. The stud is probably stripped any way. Replace both nut & stud.

Some times gripping the nut with vice grips will let you get the stud to unscrew from the head.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Yes
Will try again with my needle nose vise grips. Can't imagine a flathead would be any better.
Maybe a little bit of heat...

Reeeally hoping the stud isn't stripped.

Hmmmm, Heat is unlikely to help. If you plan on re-using the stud, best run a thread die over it. Its not a big deal to replace it.

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

You'd have better odds in winning the lottery.

SPEED! Lower torque power socket. RPMs up, nut OFF!

Im not sure about the access room youre working with here...while it spins try an coax it up with the plyers or a flat head or something.

__________________
Current fleet
2006 E320 CDI
1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped

former members
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro"

If that doesn't do it then don't worry too much.

__________________
Current fleet
2006 E320 CDI
1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped

former members
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro"

Smoking!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

If there is about 4 good threads above the Nut you can make the Stud Puller shown in the picture.

You Screw the Metric Rod Coupling over the Stud and then screw a Bolt into the Rod Coupling and tighten but not over tighten.
Put the Wrench on the Rod Coupling Body and hope the Stud will turn out.

The Sell Stud Pullers that work the same way but they do not work well on Studs that are really stuck; like rusted studs would be.

If you use the Dremel type tool to cut through the nut you can put a screwdriver into the cut and twist the Screwdriver to spread the Nut out.
Item #31501

Harbor Freight sells little diamond coated Rotary Bits. If there is enough room for a small Drill Motor one of them could be used to grind through the Nut.
However, the Diamond Coating is pretty fine and it will take a while to grind through.
Harbor Freight also sells Tiny little Diamond cutting Disc sets that go on a supplied 1/8th inch Shank holder.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Spoke too soon. Flathead worked, the bolt is extremely stripped. Darn.

Now I just have to hope that this Mercedes shop around the corner with parts cars in its lot will sell me a bolt tomorrow morning!

What is it you are calling a FlatHead? My best guess is it is a Screwdriver?

Here in CA the local Ace Hardware sells the smaller Metric Studs.

If the Stud is out you could also simply use a proper length Bolt and Washer. The local Home Depot sells some Metric Bolts. I am less sure that the sell Metric Studs.

__________________
84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Haven't taken the stud out yet. Was about to go do that. How could I use a bolt instead of a stud??
What size stud would I need? I am in Oakland and very close to both a Home Depot and an Ace Hardware.

Also, what is the torque spec for the nuts? 15nm is coming to my brain...