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  #1  
Old 03-23-2012, 09:52 AM
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82 240d Alternator not charging battery...help

My battery went dead. Charged battery and it checked out good. Took it to two local shops for a battery check and both places said system not charging. I removed the alternator(pain in the A$$) and took it to the local automotive electric shop. The shop tested it and asked what was the problem because it was supplying power as designed.

Is there something else to look for on this 82 240d that would prevent the recharging from getting to the battery? The connector on the Alt & battery seemed secure.

Thank you for any help you can provide!!
Hip

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2006 Jetta TDI DSG 320k miles
1997 Ford F150 325k miles 4.2L V6 "Work Truck"
2008 Tundra 225k miles 5.7L
1982 240D.....sold
1984 300D...Totaled OUCH!
1985 300D Turbo 222k miles "Dos" sold to 79Mercy
1986 300SDL 98K miles "The Beater"....sold
1987 190E 2.3 16v Euro spec 115K miles....sold
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  #2  
Old 03-23-2012, 10:18 AM
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Does the battery light on the dash burn? If that bulb is burned out the alternator wont get the signal to charge...
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

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  #3  
Old 03-23-2012, 10:24 AM
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what light do you refer to?? I'll go look now...
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2006 Jetta TDI DSG 320k miles
1997 Ford F150 325k miles 4.2L V6 "Work Truck"
2008 Tundra 225k miles 5.7L
1982 240D.....sold
1984 300D...Totaled OUCH!
1985 300D Turbo 222k miles "Dos" sold to 79Mercy
1986 300SDL 98K miles "The Beater"....sold
1987 190E 2.3 16v Euro spec 115K miles....sold
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  #4  
Old 03-23-2012, 10:59 AM
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Check at your battery for voltage while idling, it should be 13.5 - 14 volts. If not that high then check the block that is on the fender to see what the voltage is there.
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  #5  
Old 03-23-2012, 11:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hip001 View Post
what light do you refer to?? I'll go look now...
There is a Red No Chaging idiot light near the bottom of the Instrument Cluster.

On all Cars I have seen that have Warning Lights when you first turn the key all of the Warning Lights are supposed to light up. That is the test to see if the Warning Lights are working or not.

As the other member indicated without the Charging light (at least a 3 watt bulb) the Alternator does not want to charge.

Another common issue is to have corrosion inside of the Connector/Plug or a bad Ground.
There is a Chassis to Engine Ground Strap on the drivers side of the Car and of couse that Battery to Chassis Ground up by the Battery.

Since the Alternator Shop said your Alternator was OK you most likely do not have worn Voltage Regulator Brushes; but, that is another common reason for not charging.
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  #6  
Old 03-23-2012, 01:49 PM
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Thank you guys! I'm going out to reinstall the alternator now. I'll check the dash light and the grounds. I'll let you know......
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2006 Jetta TDI DSG 320k miles
1997 Ford F150 325k miles 4.2L V6 "Work Truck"
2008 Tundra 225k miles 5.7L
1982 240D.....sold
1984 300D...Totaled OUCH!
1985 300D Turbo 222k miles "Dos" sold to 79Mercy
1986 300SDL 98K miles "The Beater"....sold
1987 190E 2.3 16v Euro spec 115K miles....sold
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  #7  
Old 03-23-2012, 02:03 PM
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wait are you serious? proper charging of the system is dependent on a 3 watt light bulb??? whaaaaat!
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  #8  
Old 03-23-2012, 05:12 PM
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Darn it!!! Still no red light on dash. Bulb looks good. Could it look good and still be bad?? Also the Brake looking indicator next to the battery light does not come on.

I checked and cleaned both grounds to the car frame. they were not corroded but cleaned them to bare metal with a wire brush.

What next?? I'll go try another bulb just for grins.
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2006 Jetta TDI DSG 320k miles
1997 Ford F150 325k miles 4.2L V6 "Work Truck"
2008 Tundra 225k miles 5.7L
1982 240D.....sold
1984 300D...Totaled OUCH!
1985 300D Turbo 222k miles "Dos" sold to 79Mercy
1986 300SDL 98K miles "The Beater"....sold
1987 190E 2.3 16v Euro spec 115K miles....sold
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  #9  
Old 03-23-2012, 05:49 PM
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Changing the bulb did not help. did notice there is a slight illumination coming from the battery light(bleed over from other bulb??).
Put my meter on the battery. 12.06v at idle and started dropping when turning the lights on.

Could the automotive electric shop been wrong about the alternators working condition?

Will the dash light come on if the Alt is bad?
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2006 Jetta TDI DSG 320k miles
1997 Ford F150 325k miles 4.2L V6 "Work Truck"
2008 Tundra 225k miles 5.7L
1982 240D.....sold
1984 300D...Totaled OUCH!
1985 300D Turbo 222k miles "Dos" sold to 79Mercy
1986 300SDL 98K miles "The Beater"....sold
1987 190E 2.3 16v Euro spec 115K miles....sold
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  #10  
Old 03-23-2012, 07:34 PM
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Check where the cable from the alternator junctions on the fender well in a little black box.
Great place for corrosion because of dampness. Remove all the wires, clean the eyes and reinstall. You may get lucky.
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  #11  
Old 03-23-2012, 08:53 PM
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Thank you Gears! I'll give that a try in the morning.
I did try it again tonight and noticed that the battery & brake dash lights come on dimly. does that mean anything?
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2006 Jetta TDI DSG 320k miles
1997 Ford F150 325k miles 4.2L V6 "Work Truck"
2008 Tundra 225k miles 5.7L
1982 240D.....sold
1984 300D...Totaled OUCH!
1985 300D Turbo 222k miles "Dos" sold to 79Mercy
1986 300SDL 98K miles "The Beater"....sold
1987 190E 2.3 16v Euro spec 115K miles....sold
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  #12  
Old 03-23-2012, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hip001 View Post
Changing the bulb did not help. did notice there is a slight illumination coming from the battery light(bleed over from other bulb??).
Put my meter on the battery. 12.06v at idle and started dropping when turning the lights on.

Could the automotive electric shop been wrong about the alternators working condition?

Will the dash light come on if the Alt is bad?
12.06v and dropping means there is no charging going on. So if you are 100% sure your alternator and battery are working then some connection along the way is bad. I'm guessing your alternator is intermittently charging due to either worn brushes or a bad connection at the alternator.
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  #13  
Old 03-23-2012, 09:03 PM
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On the Alternator Connecto/Plug. You should get Battery Voltage all of the time from the 2 large Slots on the Connector that attach to the Fat Red Wires.

The single Small Slot that attches to the Blue Wire goes to the No Charging light circuit. When the Key is off you should get no voltage there. When the Key is on but not cranking you will get about 1 volt less than the Battery Voltage if the Bulb and circuit are OK.
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  #14  
Old 03-23-2012, 10:14 PM
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Did you check the brushes on the voltage regulator?
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1985 300TD Turbo Euro-wagon
1979 280CE 225,200 miles
1985 300D Turbo 264,000 miles
1976 240D 190,000 miles
1979 300TD 220,000

GONE but not forgotten
1976 300D 195,300 miles
1983 300D Turbo 175,000 miles

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e3...e485-1-2-1.jpg
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  #15  
Old 03-24-2012, 03:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 79Mercy View Post
Did you check the brushes on the voltage regulator?
Agreed, you might have an intermittent problem with the brushes. It pretty to remove the regulator. It can be done with the alternator in place on the motor.

As others have said, check all your connections. Perhaps the smaller wire is not connected or broken. There should be two wires on the alternator, the big power output wire and a smaller wire.

This might be helpful, its from the w126, but it should be similar to the 123.

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