Downpipe - I used the complete exhaust from another turbo wagon. You'll need to do the same as the non-turbo exhaust is much smaller in diameter. I don't know if the SD down pipe is different but it can be tweaked.

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

My ramps are on their way back so I can measure the shift rods shortly.
I don't know if you can tell from the pictures or not but:

1) The rod that connects to the shift arm furthest back on the trans connects to the middle of the 3 shift arms on the shifter itself, and, the end that the clip slides onto goes in the opposite direction as the the other two rods. This one points to the outside and the other two point towards the driveline.

2) The rod that connects the reverse arm (the lower and middle of the 3) on the trans connects to the outside most shifter arm

3) The rod that connects the shift arm furthest forward on the trans connects to the inside most shifter arm.

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

It was tough to measure all of the shift rods since I put them in before measuring.

The one I could get a good measurement on was the reverse rod. I measured from the center of the shift arm on the trans and followed the curve of the rod to the center of the connection on the shifter; I came up with 19.5 inches +-.

You can get the lengths of the other two by putting the transmission in neutral (all arms up), attach the Reverse rod and adjust the other two to line up straight across. YOu should be able to do this with the trans out but remember that where the rods connect to the shifter is a bit higher than where they connect to the trans; that might affect things a little.

Obviously, the rod for the shift arm most forward on the trans will be longer than the one for the arm furthest back. It's better to cut them too long than too short!

Driveline: The best way to do this is to install the engine and trans (no flex disks) and use a stick to measure the distance between the mating surfaces of the diff and the trans. The stick won't sag like a measuring tape.

Now, I did that and my driveline is a little tight to get in place. In fact, I have to do some prying to get it over the shaft on the diff. Once in place it works fine but I would recommend a little shorter. The spline where the two come together will take up any difference.

The measurement I came up with is 66-1/2" total length.

If I were doing it again, I would emphasize to the driveline shop that the two pieces need to compress together some for install and then slide apart some to be bolted up. The reason being is that the shaft from the diff sticks out further than the mating surface for the flex disk (where you measure from). The 66-1/2 is the slid apart and installed length. A safe compressed length 65" - 65-1/2". That would expose some splines but should leave enough in the shaft for good strength. My compressed length is about 66-1/4 and I can barely get it in.

Here's where I got mine done; http://www.driveshafts.com/ 1st class operation. The length was my fault.

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

StaggerLee....thank you for the wealth of information, much needed and much appreciated. However, i do have a couple of questions to ask you...where did you cut the shifting rods? at the threaded end or bent end? if you cut the threaded ends how are the cut threads holding up? And for the 240d Automatic transmission cross member, isn't it the same as any other w123 cross member? I am taking the engine out this weekend and cleaning up the new one. so, should have some pics up by Sunday. thank you for the info!

I have been reading on several forums about what transmission cross member to use for the 4spd conversion. Many of the guys are using the Automatic transmission cross member from a 240d. However, i can not seem to find any information regarding what year and model the cross member is out of? if any body has this info please share. thank you in advance. i should have some pics on the whole conversion here soon.

Automatic crossmember - You need to use the 240D automatic crossmember because the mounting points on either side of the trans tunnel taper in towards the back. Your 4-speed will mount where the tunnel is wider than the manual crossmember and also wider than where a 300D crossmember mounts up (because of the extra cylinder). The 240 automatic mount is the wider width and I don't think it matters what year; I would get one out of a 123 to be safe. I think I paid $6 at the PNP

Shift Rods:
I would cut the threaded end for sure. It's a lot easier to cut threads than it is to cut that little slot for the clip that holds it. The threads hold up fine...there's not that much tension or pressure on the linkage.

Keep the momentum!!

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

Cool! Hopefully the wifey and i will be getting everything together to start the conversion this Saturday. But the whole cross member issue may hinder the plans. I have called majority of the PNP's here and around Eugene, Corvallis and south Willamette valley area with no luck! and don't even bother with B&R wrecking, those guys are incompetent and meth heads.

Everything is coming along nicely, however, I do have a question regarding the radiator? Should I swap In turbo radiator/oil cooler or just keep the naturally aspirated set up?

I used a turbo radiator and oil cooler. I believe they are both differen than the N/A. The N/A rad. and cooler would probably work until you find the turbo versions but I would closely monitor the temp.

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

yeah... all the cooling components will be different. The turbo versions are larger and the coolant setup also has the expansion tank whereas the NA does not.

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'85 300TD "Puff The Magic Wagon" - Rolling Resto
'19 Mazda CX-9 Signature - Wife's sled
'21 Morgan 3-Wheeler P101 Edition
'95 E300d - SOLD
'84 300TD "Brown Betty" - Miss this one
'81 240D "China Baby" - Farm grocery getter

You're Right Andrew!
Mycodiesel - I chiseled off the welds on an expansion tank bracket from a car at the PNP and welded them on the N/A car's fenderwell. You should be able to find an expansion tank pretty easily.

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

Well, i did manage to find find the turbo radiator and oil cooler with expansion tank.....But i have a bit of bad news, the engine i picked up has a possible blown bearing! today when i was prepping the engine for installation, I dropped the oil pan and i was horrified at the sight of a thick layer of metallic shavings. some were the size of my pinky nail at the bottom!!!!!

Craigslist is a dangerous game to play! I hammered on that guy for an hour! getting all this information about the history of the engine. moral of the story, always start the engine on the spot and realize people are not as honest as you may be.....In my case the engine was already out and ready to go. so, back to square one! i guess i could strip it down and see where the issue is. I am pissed!

That doesn't sound good. Are they chunks or more like a thin layer? Either way, something is awry.

You might want to drop it in to finish the transmission and drive line install and see if it runs. You never know until you hear it.

Then pull the lower pan again and see if there is anything new; a magnet in there will help.

There's a 1983 240D at the Portland PNP. I don't know if it's an automatic or not but I may be able to check tomorrow or early next week. Anybody else close by? Charlie - did you happen to look at the 240?

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

The two 240s around here (Arlington) right now are both manuals (or were). I'll keekp checking as I'm not sure when PNP updates their website. From where I live I can pretty easily hit Tacoma, Lynnwood and Arlington PNP's and I'm in Portland a lot and there's about 4 of them pretty close by.

We'll find you a crossmember

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1981 300TD "The Green Lantern"
1980 300TD
1983 300D Euro "China Cat"

yeah, the pieces of metal are thin and flat, looks like destroyed bearing material and it's magnetic. So, back to square one! however, i did get in contact with the guy who sold me engine and he helped me out by giving me a block, crank, rods, cylinder head, cam assembly, pistons(not sure if will reuse them) and a ton of other mercedes OM617 engine parts. i will be dropping the block off at the machine shop tomorrow.

Have any of you ever reused the pistons in your rebuild? I typically get new one's (well, when i rebuild other peoples mercedes), but looking at a budget build if that is possible??