hi guys

I have to swap my old silver rack bolt on IP for gold one, please advise where to put O ring
(I assume that is should be as on old one - red arrow).


TX


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Attached Thumbnails

 

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Yes, the arrow is pointing to where it should go.

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83 SD

84 CD

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thanks tmbnz,

I put it in and played played played but no significant improvement..

I guess my rpm's are out of order.... will try to adjust to 750 later...


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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

You said your engine was running perfectly after your pump Re-Cal - Yes? Why are you now changing the damper bolt?

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Beagle

was is the keyword

after 30 days it start to behave almost the same, bit less vibe though...

last bosch guys told me that rack pin is ok,but when I remove that silver piece you could not believe what kind of pin it was, just the opposite shape.

in the meantime my golden one arrived from States so I switch them ..
also I shim fuel return valve to proper length as it was 21mm.


ongoing saga I say


p.s when I ask them after those 30 days of fine work, did they change
delivery valves they responded NO, so I'm dropping those bosch guys
and will do some adjustments by myself... and some help from peach guys


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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

You should investigate thoroughly whether your problem is not fuel contamination. For a smooth idle to degenerate into rough idling in the space of a month after a Re-Cal just about rules out the fuel pump as the problem - IF you have not been fiddling with the pump yourself.

Likewise the old damper bolt obviously was functioning properly then. It is a very simple and crude device that provides adjustable friction onto the rack bell-crank to damp out over-corrections of the idle control leaf spring. It only requires replacing if the plunger spring has weakened to the point that it does not have enough pressure to provide sufficient friction. Symptoms are anything from rapid to very slow regular surging at idle.

Leaking D-Valves cause a very regular rough idle, exactly like an out of Cal pump - no missing. They deteriorate very slowly over years rather than months - almost imperceptibly. Since they were fine a month ago you can rule them out.

However fuel contamination does fit the picture. Water or other fluids can accumulate slowly in the filter and the F/P low pressure chamber until the level reaches the ports of the metering elements. The rear cylinders are affected first due to inclination of the pump. Rough idling on climbs and smooth idling downhill are a clue to this.

The supply line to the pump must be removed to thoroughly flush the pump chamber. Just priming will never remove water etc. from the chamber.

If you give a detailed description of the symptoms we may be able to help.

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Beagle

well..I manage to restrain myself from touching the IP,...but I plan to
just joking,..I have no knowledge or equipment to do so...

but I did change 2 sets of both fuel filters,also I changed all the fuel lines
including those under the tank. also recalibrate linkage to factory default.
no change in vibes.

small noise (or vibes) can be observed only in idle,when running
car is fine and pretty smooth (flat,hills...etc)

also I went to measure compression few days ago
25 25.5 26 25.5 26.5 (bar)

when I had this problem before IP adjust. noise in cabin was all present
so driving was a pain,now that is not issue.

those guys from bosch house told me that my governor is the issue
and can not be properly adjusted but they manage to smooth it a bit..

the problem is I can not find anywhere near good working pump
to replace mine, just to be 100% sure it is pump issue.....

but,..once again it is not so serious as before, because of better
"drivebility" now ..

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

well... I did not do that ., but will give it a try on a first sunny day
(its rainy over here now....)

what is the procedure considering chamber flushing,..just remove the
supply line (from the main filter) and let the chamber empty itself..or....?

.

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Get the car on an incline, nose down, so that you get all the fuel and crap out when you loosen the by-pass valve banjo bolt (first) and remove the supply banjo bolt (on the pump). Refill the chamber with the primer pump and drain a couple of times.

Disconnect the banana hose at the steel return line, with engine idling, and hold into a small container. Check for a strong flow at idle that increases further with rpm. A dribble indicates that you have a blockage somewhere.

No guarantee that this will fix it but a couple more items to eliminate.

Just remember that very common causes of rough idling are the very variable quality of diesel fuel and low cetane levels due to poor mixing, or insufficient levels of, 2-ethyl hexyl nitrate - the chemical additive used by Oil Companies to raise the cetane level. Some Countries and Oil companies are much worse than others. Are you perhaps expecting too much??

It can take several tank refills to purge out a bad load of fuel.

I suggest that you get another opinion on that from another more competent and reputable Boch agency.

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Beagle

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ok,finally sunny days over here so I can try this cleaning procedure.

please,.. where is the location of the by-pass valve banjo bolt
which I have to loosen a bit before cleaning...?


thanks,


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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Fuel return line behind the Pump between #4 and#5 injector lines - just to let air in so that fuel drains quickly from chamber when you remove supply line banjo bolt.

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Beagle

Thanks B.

I guess I call that one fuel return valve,.. sorry mate,but as I said
before,English is not my native so I have to struggle through these name
forests...

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

ok,tried that one

it is not a clear flow,but it does increase with rpm ... video :

flow.mp4 - YouTube


I have cleaned chambers as Beagle described (4 times flushed with lift pump,car nose inclined)
and will give it a ride this afternoon to see if any changes ....


cheers



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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Flow looks OK - about 60-70% I'd say. Are you using veg oil or mix?, just going by the brown color?

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Beagle

nope, that is a mix of 2 brands of diesel
we have so called euro diesel which is green color and lacks sulfur and fat
and we have "ordinary" diesel which is very dirty .. so called D2.

I have to mix it because when using cleaner euro diesel consumption goes
20% higher and some gays told me that lubrication is quite lower with
green one...

when driving with just "ordinary" smoke (and filter clogging) is issue.

I found magic mix, 25% old diesel and 75% euro clean diesel.. or
full batch euro clean with 2-3% two stroke oil.


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__________________
w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered