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  #1  
Old 04-08-2012, 09:33 PM
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Question Rebuilding OM617.912: need torque settings for 722.118 mating surface

Hello all,

This is my first post:
I can't find the the torque settings specified for the bolts that mate the automatic transmission (722.118) to the short block. I've scoured the MB 617.912 engine repair manual at startechinfo as well as the total waste of time Chilton manual. Does anyone know the proper settings, or where to direct me to find them? Also, any tricks for getting these pieces to mate properly?
The torque converter is attached to the short block already. I couldn't figure out how to get it off, but it's okay.
However, for future reference, can anyone tell me how to remove the torque converter?

Thanks,
Jason

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  #2  
Old 04-09-2012, 03:44 PM
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hears all the torque specs. i have for it.
you'll have to remove the torque converter before you hang the trans on the block. there should be six bolts holding it to the flex disk.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf torque specifications.pdf (24.4 KB, 977 views)
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  #3  
Old 04-09-2012, 03:59 PM
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The Haynes manual gives the same values for the transmission to the adapter plate fixings as in the PDF posted above.

10mm ... 55 Nm
12mm ... 65 Nm

Again as said above you are meant to remove the bolts from the flex plate (this is attached to the flywheel) that go into the torque converter. You are meant to push the torque converter away from the flywheel into the bell housing on the transmission before removing the transmission.

When you come to refit the transmission you should be fitting the torque converter to the transmission then offering it up to the engine. You then need to slide the torque converter forward before fitting the bolts to the flex plate again. The flex plate should remain undistorted!
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1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:01 PM
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Thanks so much guys, this information is extremely useful for where I'm at with this beast. (; However, I wanted to know the torque settings for the 17mm bolts which bolt the transmission to the short block. Also, the engine I'm working on is non turbo, & the SD uses a turbo engine & I believe the 722.3-4 series transmission. Are the torque setting the same for both of these setups? Also, Army, I just want to say that your 722.118 rebuild thread is so amazing, & it's one of the reasons I joined this forum!
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Old 04-10-2012, 12:04 AM
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I took some pictures, & would like more information on removing the torque converter

Hi people.

I need some advice on removal of the torque converter. It appears to me that the only way to get at the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate is through the starter hole. Is it safe to advance the crankshaft with the head removed? Or is there some trick way of accessing those bolts?

I've added some photos I took this evening, just to give an idea of where I'm at.
Attached Thumbnails
Rebuilding OM617.912: need torque settings for 722.118 mating surface-722.118.jpg   Rebuilding OM617.912: need torque settings for 722.118 mating surface-617-short-block.jpg   Rebuilding OM617.912: need torque settings for 722.118 mating surface-torque-converter-1.jpg   Rebuilding OM617.912: need torque settings for 722.118 mating surface-torque-converter-2.jpg  
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  #6  
Old 04-10-2012, 03:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaos23 View Post
Thanks so much guys, this information is extremely useful for where I'm at with this beast. (; However, I wanted to know the torque settings for the 17mm bolts which bolt the transmission to the short block. Also, the engine I'm working on is non turbo, & the SD uses a turbo engine & I believe the 722.3-4 series transmission. Are the torque setting the same for both of these setups? Also, Army, I just want to say that your 722.118 rebuild thread is so amazing, & it's one of the reasons I joined this forum!
I'll try and be clear as possible.

Haynes is a bit crap at times!

Sometimes they get the difference between M12 and 12mm mixed up - for the values I posted above those are the good ones for M10 and M12 threaded bolts. The heads of the bolts are indeed bigger than those dimensions. I'm sorry not to have made that clear before.

(I'd like to see how long a transmission would stay in place with little 12mm hex head bolts holding it in place - well to do that there'd have to be a lot of them!)

I'm like 99.9% sure that the torque values for the 722.1 transmission and the 722.3/4 transmissions (bolts from transmission to engine) are the same.

BUT

Just in case you are talking about the adapter plate - the aluminium casting that bolts directly on to the block and sits between the block and the transmission then those values are also MIA in the FSM as far as I can see and I've posted them up in this thread

engine bolt torque specs 300d

(But I don't think you are)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



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  #7  
Old 04-10-2012, 03:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaos23 View Post
Hi people.

I need some advice on removal of the torque converter. It appears to me that the only way to get at the bolts holding the torque converter to the flex plate is through the starter hole. Is it safe to advance the crankshaft with the head removed? Or is there some trick way of accessing those bolts?

I've added some photos I took this evening, just to give an idea of where I'm at.
You should have no trouble moving the crank any which way you like so long as the timing chain isn't caught up inside somewhere. The only problem with the OM617 (for when the head is in place on a built engine) is that if you rotate the crank counter clockwise (taken as you are looking at the front of the engine) the timing chain can snag

Small print - obviously if you feel any resistance to movement you need to make sure you are not going to accidentally bust something.

If you think the cylinder bores could do with some lubrication before you turn the crank dribble a bit of ATF down there that will also help clean stuff up a bit. Whilst you probably have lots of used ATF I think you are better off using clean! Engine oil is also good.

Whilst it is a bit difficult to reach with the engine on the ground the place where you can access the flex plate to torque converter bolts is at the front of the adapter plate right under the engine. There's a little thin cover that needs to be removed with either allen head bolts or machine screws holding it in place.

Please get some oil or grease on the block and head mating surfaces before the rust sets in!
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Last edited by Stretch; 04-10-2012 at 03:30 AM. Reason: Spelling
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  #8  
Old 04-11-2012, 06:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaos23 View Post
...I can't find the the torque settings specified for the bolts that mate the automatic transmission (722.118) to the short block. I've scoured the MB 617.912 engine repair manual at startechinfo as well as the total waste of time Chilton manual. Does anyone know the proper settings, or where to direct me to find them?...
Perhaps these two pages from the 1983 Mercedes Benz Tech Data Manual may help. Obviously the column heading "733.3" on the second page is a typo, should read "722.3":
http://i40.tinypic.com/33tni1u.jpg
http://i40.tinypic.com/2ah8ths.jpg
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  #9  
Old 10-17-2012, 11:01 PM
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a HUGE thank you to all the people who post here...

Most notably Army (for transmission info & general engine advice, Alistair (for his write up on setting fuel start of delivery), Dannym (for the timing chain stretch wiki) & everyone who posts images of problems they've encountered. Today, at 11:50am PST, my long dead 300 TD was resurrected! I drove it from San Francisco to Oakland & back with it's new short block. (New to it--I got it from PickNPull for about $200! & rebuilt it from information contained on this site!!) The short block had been obviously used in a veggy oil conversion, probably what caused it to end up at PickNPull. I will post images as time allows. Many thanks again!!!
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  #10  
Old 10-18-2012, 03:15 AM
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Great news - I'm looking forward to the pictures

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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