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  #1  
Old 04-18-2012, 10:58 PM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Louisville,KY
Posts: 184
I need a W123 expert in KY or IN

Here's the deal -- I don't mind paying somebody to honestly tell me what I should work on next...here's the groups I need to work on:

* Rear Suspension/Bushings (subframe/transmission/diff bushings/mounts)
* Engine Motormount
* A/C
* Front LCA/Ball joints
* Rear LCA Bushing
* Driveshaft check
* Vacuum System (door interlock/ACC/Transmission shift)

I had a VW before, and well it was cake. I swapped in around four or five engines, fixed D-Jet and L-Jet FI systems (I used to help the old VW mechanic with D-Jet stuff whenever he'd get something in) but the mercedes I honestly want to keep in good shape, and I'm capable of doing the work, I just dont know what things look like when they're about to let go without just swapping things out for new mounts.

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Current:
*1984 300D ~200K,1989 MR2 250K, 2012 Ford Fusion 4.5K (fiance's car to replace the uber-unsafe cavalier)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Past: 1998 Chevy Cavalier ,2005 Saab 9-3 2.0T, 1996 Mazda Protege, 1974 Porsche 914 2.0, 1997 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L/5Speed, 1995 Jeep Wrangler
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  #2  
Old 04-19-2012, 06:14 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
dieselarchitect
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Lafayette Indiana
Posts: 38,626
there are only two things that really are certain to need replacing, motor mounts and tie rod ends. All the other things on the list are often still good at 200k. Door locks are also a common problem but not too hard to fix, I hear. I usually let them go when they crap out but I am lazy that way.

The motor mounts are easy to check visually and not too difficult to change. Tie rod ends are pretty easy and it is pretty inexpensive now to just change the whole tie rod. You'll need an alignment afterward though.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #3  
Old 04-19-2012, 08:17 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Louisville,KY
Posts: 184
Just finished the entire front end. The *only* thing I didn't do was LCA bushings and the funky guide rod mount bushing.
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Java Developer/Linux SysAdmin

Current:
*1984 300D ~200K,1989 MR2 250K, 2012 Ford Fusion 4.5K (fiance's car to replace the uber-unsafe cavalier)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Past: 1998 Chevy Cavalier ,2005 Saab 9-3 2.0T, 1996 Mazda Protege, 1974 Porsche 914 2.0, 1997 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L/5Speed, 1995 Jeep Wrangler
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  #4  
Old 04-19-2012, 10:11 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Louisville,KY
Posts: 184
I'm having a weird vibration sound coming from the middle/back of the car when car is in P,N and under load from 1000rpm to about 2500 then it goes away. I'll check everything over, I was just not really ready to do a subframe bushing yet....
__________________
Java Developer/Linux SysAdmin

Current:
*1984 300D ~200K,1989 MR2 250K, 2012 Ford Fusion 4.5K (fiance's car to replace the uber-unsafe cavalier)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Past: 1998 Chevy Cavalier ,2005 Saab 9-3 2.0T, 1996 Mazda Protege, 1974 Porsche 914 2.0, 1997 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L/5Speed, 1995 Jeep Wrangler
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  #5  
Old 04-19-2012, 10:52 AM
Simpler=Better's Avatar
Ham Shanker
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 2,544
Motormounts are the best bang for the buck. Also check your transmission mount- mine was torn completely.
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  #6  
Old 04-19-2012, 10:04 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Louisville,KY
Posts: 184
Well found out the transmission vac modulator is totally pooped. Didn't hold vacuum at all when testing with mityvac or inline T with the mityvac.

Did notice that I had two orifices inline, a brown one that went in between some 4 way vacuum connectors (I straightened/fixed the vacuum leaks by blocking everything off that didn't work with golf tees) and a green one in between the VCV and the transmission modulator.

So i'm trying to figure out which modulator I need. I think I need the green one. But I understand there's a black color one that supposedly is a superseded part.

__________________
Java Developer/Linux SysAdmin

Current:
*1984 300D ~200K,1989 MR2 250K, 2012 Ford Fusion 4.5K (fiance's car to replace the uber-unsafe cavalier)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Past: 1998 Chevy Cavalier ,2005 Saab 9-3 2.0T, 1996 Mazda Protege, 1974 Porsche 914 2.0, 1997 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L/5Speed, 1995 Jeep Wrangler
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