OK, I'll admit it, I thought about using the crank bolt a couple times and when I crawled under there it didn't look like I could get the socked on the bolt without removing the fan shroud so i gave in and went back to the P/S bolt, not wanting to make an all day project out of it. Part of it is, I have a bunch of P/S pumps if the bolt should become a problem, but I,m still interested to know why I couldn't see how easy it was to get on that crank bolt

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

From what I have read on this Forum only the W123s With a Turbo have the Terminal/Wire Junction Block in front of the Battery on the Fender Well.
But, the non-trubos do not have that and you would need to connect the Rmote Starter Switch down on the Starter Solenoid.

But, there is still times when you may need to turn the Engine by hand; so it is nice to have a choice of metnods.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I just bump mine over with the key until I get the camshaft into the position I want.

There's a procedure on here somewhere about checking timing chain elongation.

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Whoever said there's nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes never had a cheap Jaguar.

83 300D Turbo with manual conversion, early W126 vented front rotors and H4 headlights 400,xxx miles
08 Suzuki GSX-R600 M4 Slip-on 22,xxx miles
88 Jaguar XJS V12 94,xxx miles. Work in progress.

only the 240's don't have the terminal block. all the N/A 300's do... and on the 240's you can easily reach the starter terminals...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

[QUOTE=Diesel911;2925903]From what I have read on this Forum only the W123s With a Turbo have the Terminal/Wire Junction Block in front of the Battery on the Fender Well.
But, the non-trubos do not have that and you would need to connect the Rmote Starter Switch down on the Starter Solenoid.


Seems I remember a while back hearing about this "panel", and not knowing about turbo cars, finally figured out i didn't have one

Its easy to reach the solenoid tho

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

12 Volt Remote Starter Switch
12 Volt Remote Starter Switch


.

Ah yes, the fan shroud. Mine has been off for a few years, since I installed my reman motor. I guess that might explain the relative ease I have in accessing the crank bolt

Still though, I adjusted the valves on my old motor, and always used the crank to turn it. I go by 'feel' and bite on the bolt with a 27mm deep socket, and then attach a 1/2" driver to it. I find it a little more difficult to attach the whole socket + driver at once.

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-1985 300TD - 324k mi on chassis. MB "Tauschaggregat" 617 motor + 4-speed conversion
Alaska Roadtrip 2009
-2002 E320 Wagon - 197k mi
-1998 E320 Wagon - 310k mi - retired

You didn't get all the way up and back on the Alcan highway without your fan shroud did you?

Uh Huh, think I'll stick with the P/S bolt

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Thanks, I remember that.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Also the Euro, N/A 300s do not, at least mine does not have it.

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

Drove up with it attached to a 617 with 3 good cylinders (250+ psi).

Drove back without it, but with a 617 that actually has 5 good cylinders. Is it really critical? Does it make a tremendous difference in terms of the volume of air moved?

Sorry... don't mean to hijack this thread.

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-1985 300TD - 324k mi on chassis. MB "Tauschaggregat" 617 motor + 4-speed conversion
Alaska Roadtrip 2009
-2002 E320 Wagon - 197k mi
-1998 E320 Wagon - 310k mi - retired

From what I have read on the Forums some Peoples Cars seem to have borderline Cooling compared to others. So, on some Cars the Shroud might be critical component.
It also depends on the Weather in the area you do your Driving and the type of driving.
I person stuck in a Traffic Jam in the dead of Summer with the A/C maxed in AZ might really need the Fan Shroud.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Hmm, I'll have to check mine... I'm not sure on it.
so it's the USA models 300's have the block, and 240's do not, interesting.

__________________
John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

I think I would rather make the trip without a fan shroud than without 5 good cylinders I drove it a couple times before there was much pavement in BC and the Yukon, 1500 miles of washboard

__________________


1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"