same for RI. No title anyway for something over 10 years old, "total loss" consisted of me getting a check in the mail, and no change to any vehicle paperwork.

However, from this forum, some of the further south East coast states make it an absolute PITA, hopefully Bodhi isn't in one of these states.

All kinds of restrictions on who can do the repairs, who can inspect it, all at incredible cost to someone with an old car who loves it.

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

I saw your post of FB. That really sucks, and I know how infuriating it is to have to make a claim on your own insurance, because that ********* didn't stop. Good luck navigating the process, Cicely.

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" We have nothing to fear but the main stream media itself . . . ."- Adapted from Franklin D Roosevelt for the 21st century

OBK #55

1998 Lincoln Continental - Sold
Max 1984 300TD 285,000 miles - Sold
The Dee8gonator 1987 560SEC 196,000 miles - Sold
Orgasmatron - 2006 CLS500 90,000 miles
2002 C320 Wagon 122,000 miles
2016 AMG GTS 12,000 miles

Thanks guys. The state is Delaware. Apparently the process is you have to surrender your tag to the DMV, then get all the work done at an approved facility, with all documentation saved, and colored photos of the damage before the accident. When that is completed, you then have to go through a special inspection (all inspections in Delaware are done at the DMV). It seems like there is a lot of detail and paperwork, which bothers me because of all the chances for something to go amiss.
I took another look under the car now that it's light out. I really can't see anything bent, although the driver's tire looks a bit toed-out compared to the other side. I checked the steering coupling and it looks/feels solid, though there are two small cracks in it (which might have been there ... it has not been changed anywhere in my records). I don't see anything off about the frame where the LCAs mount, or the spring perches, or any other part of the frame. Not that that means it isn't damaged ... my eye isn't trained to see that sort of thing. Most of the front end (LCA bushings, springs, ball joints) was rebuilt about 90,000 miles ago (189,000 miles or so) in 2002. The tie rods were done at 250,000, idler arm kit and steering damper at 260,000 and drag link at 266,000. Shocks at 266,000. The car was tracking perfectly before this.
I will go take more pictures and try to jack up the car. I guess it's also possible the hub was damaged. It felt like my wheel may have actually left the ground when he hit me, but it's hard to say. I know that sounds weird, but it happened so fast I'm not really sure the exact physics of what happened. I was just focused on staying in control of the car and not knowing if he was going to crush me all the way into the guard rail, flip over me, etc. It upsets me just to think of the feeling.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Florida is a bit like that with their titling process after damage, It seems like it's daunting but, it's doable, just have to keep all the receipts, pictures etc, the inspections at least for my vehicle was, they looked at the pictures before, Verified that the repairs were done, basic functionality (turn signals, headlights etc) worked, then they etched my windows and I was done. I hope that this works out for you in your favor, Glad you are O.k

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hum.....
1987 300TD 311,000M Stolen. Presumed destroyed

Sorry to hear about the hit-and-run accident. The car looks repairable. If it had been in CA then I would take the money and buy the car back. A salvage title is not a big deal in CA. However, I treat all my cars as disposable cars so I only insure them for third-party. If I had a hit-and-run accident then I am out of luck, I would not be able to claim my insurance company.

Good luck with your claim.

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Not MBZ nor A/C trained professional but a die-hard DIY and green engineer. Use the info at your own peril. Picked up 2 Infractions because of disagreements. NOW reversed.

W124 Keyless remote, PM for details. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-used-parts-sale-wanted/334620-fs-w124-chasis-keyless-remote-%2450-shipped.html

1 X 2006 CDI
1 x 87 300SDL
1 x 87 300D
1 x 87 300TDT wagon
1 x 83 300D
1 x 84 190D ( 5 sp ) - All R134 converted + keyless entry.

I don't know if this shop is any good or not but I remember a high end body shop on rt202 in PA. It was on the right hand side in the West Chester area. Keep in mind it's been about 6 years since I lived there so it may be gone but it's worth a shot.

I think I know which shop you mean ... it always has BMWs and MBs in the lot and it's near the MB dealer. I'll have to google it to find the name. The MB dealer I go to (when I buy parts) says they only have one certified shop in Delaware, which is actually pretty close to me, but is not on the State Farm "authorized" list.
I guess I will stick with having the adjuster come here and continue to think about the shop. Should I print up my records to show the adjuster, or is he just going to be assessing damage (as opposed to assessing the value of the car)? I have also kept most receipts from the parts counter, and it's a large stack. I'm assuming the mileage and visable rust will go against me, but the car is in, I think, unusually good mechanical shape for it's age/miles. I know they probably won't care, but I want to do whatever I can to get my car ahead in the game.

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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Sorry to see that this happened to Bodhi. Hopefully it's just a strictly suspension components that is off, not the mounting points. But even so if it is, it should be fixable.

I understand your sentiments about the whole salvage title issue. This is merely an emotional response that I agree with on cars with high sentimental value. If the car means a lot to you and you are willing to pay out of pocket, which obviously you do given your lifetime history with Bodhi, than I agree keeping an unscathed title is first and foremost.

I do hope this situation plays out to your liking.


.

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1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

I say drop the claim personally.

maybe you blew out a wheel bearing, other front suspensions component (jacking it up will tell all)

I this last winter completely lost control of my VW and did a 720 off into a farmers field, I blew out both rear wheel bearings doing that, and it was very difficult to control until I dealt with the problem.

If you drop the claim, the title is unaffected. you can resolve the front end problem, and leisurely look for a pair of doors.

Chances are the money they would pay out on that car might not be worth the headache of paperwork and you having to pay a certified shop to do the job. Just because they total it out, the total value may no equal what some body shop will want to fix the damage. Im thinking 2-4 grand max is what they might offer, more likely 2ish given the mileage? Lets say they give you 3 grand, and you have a 4 grand quote to fix the car (unlikely, but who knows, sounds like a body shop monopoly to me on who gets to be "official"). You would be out 1000 bucks, AND would have to deal with the salvage title paperwork nightmare.

By dropping the claim, anyone can do the body work so you can shop around, and you wont have to deal with the paperwork BS


Locally, doors can be had off any model car for 30-50 bucks. Id say make it safe, bide your time, and grab a pair of white doors when the opportunity presents itself.

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

Fix the thing yourself, drop collision/comp in the future. Put the money you save into the bank for future repairs.

PS - remind me never to move to Delaware. When my car got hit by some teenage bint in an SUV in NJ, I went after her daddy's insurance. Insurance co got the police report, sent an adjuster out the next day, and cut me a check for book value of the car less $250 scrap value. Didn't ask for title, just said "we totaled it, you bought it back for $250, do what you like with the money."
PPS - the alternative is to f**k Delaware, take the money from the insurapigs, sell the car out of state and buy a new one with the combined money. At least it will stay on the road yet the "approved" body shop Joey Buttafuoco scumbags won't see a single dime.

There should be no branding on the title IF you maintain ownership.

If the repairs cost more than the payout, or even come close, the insurance co. will write off the car as not economically repairable.
This is because it's the cheapest alternative for them.

First, listen to their repair/total offer. It's based upon the estimated cost of repairs, the value of the car in it's damaged state, and the value of the car in it's pre-accident state.

They want to cap their exposure to the claim, and if they think it's cheaper to pay for the car as opposed to repair the car, they will offer you the preaccident value. The insurance company is obligated to replace your car with the equivalent car, so now....

Establish value. Comps and compares (eBay final sales numbers), receipts for work performed on the car, records, records, and more records. Make it clear that your car is NOT a fully depreciated beater, but a well maintained car. Before the adjuster arrives, detail the car. You want it to look as nice as possible to support your claim for high value. It's critical to establish a high value at this point because that will be the negotiating number.

Chances are good that it will be totaled. Assuming that, now subtract the salvage value (the adjuster will provide this) and subtract that from the established value.

This is the maximum amount the insurance company will pay out for the car.

Ask for that amount and keep the car. This way, the title will not be branded (although the accident will show in a carfax), and you can take the cash and fix your car to your standards.

You may come out ahead, you may lose a bit, but you get your car back with all the emotional ties still there if that's important to you....

I've done this twice in Virginia, and the title stays clean

Good luck,

Jim

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14 E250 BlueTEC black. 45k miles
95 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 66k miles
94 E320 Cabriolet Emerald green 152k miles
85 300TD 4 spd man, euro bumpers and lights, 15" Pentas dark blue 274k miles

If the adjuster comes out and looks at it, does that make it impossible for me to drop the claim at that point? I.e., if he says it will be totaled, am I then stuck with that no matter what? If that's the case I have to decide fast. I have to leave for work in about 30 minutes before I have to do a four-hour training session for a job I'm losing in a month (and another session tomorrow ... I don't have that time to lose ).

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

sorry to see this, hope you get it sorted out! I am surprised nobody saw the car or could identify it, maybe there are traffic cameras around?

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TC
Current stable:
- 2004 Mazda RALLYWANKEL
- 2007 Saturn sky redline
- 2004 Explorer...under surgery.

Past: 135i, GTI, 300E, 300SD, 300SD, Stealth

This is pretty much what I have to do in RI, but she has different laws in Delaware. I think it was north or south Carolina? I was reading about similar laws to her situation on the forum, where any car that has been "totalled" by an insurance company, the plates must be turned in, the car must be documented and repaired at only specific facilities, and it must be reinspected at other facilities, then it can be retitled as "salvage", and replated.

This is regardless of if it stays in the ownership of the original owner, or if its sold to a new owner.

Bodhi, you should call your insurance company and see what options you have.

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This post brought to you by Carl's Jr.

Here it is.

Berardi's - Auto Detailing | Auto Body Repair | Paintless Dent Removal

It was driving me crazy that I couldnt remember the name of the place