I think this is the case in Delaware. I couldn't reach my agent in the tiny window I had before racing to work. My dad said he will try to call for me and find out. The main thing I need to know right now is whether I have to drop the claim before the adjuster comes tomorrow. I'm fine if he comes as long as I have a chance to drop the claim if I don't feel positive about what he says.
I took many pictures and a video I will post when I'm free from this ridiculous training. I'm basically in lock-down for four hours now (only reason I'm on here is a couple other people's computers are in meltdown and the class had to stop).
I was behind a gorgeous Bodhi-colored w201 most of the way to work, and it made me really sad. It's been 24 hours and I already miss my car.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

Id suggest not using a State Farm place. I did in the past and almost went to jail over the BS they created.

Call your local MB house and ask them for a couple recommendations.
You pay for the insurance. Its their job to make things right within the terms
of insurance you have. You should be able to choose the repair house you
want not some 'el smucko' outfit like I was stuck with.

__________________
1985 300D 198K sold
1982 300D 202K
1989 300E 125K
1992 940T

"If you dont have time to do it safely, you dont have time to do it"

"The democracy will cease to exist when you take away from those who are willing to work and give to those who would not."

I had a Saab before my 300, and it was involved in a accident where the car was totalled. I was around 8k away from paying it off, but they gave me more than 'fair' value from NADA book. Last time I checked NADA, since the 300D is now a classic car in most areas, and since the seller I bought the my last 300D from from didn't notarize the title sale price area, I had to pay $475 for the 300D, who's NADA value was assessed at $7800.

They'll try to total it out, its cheaper for them. I had papers ready to negotiate prices from NADA and comps for my saab. They ended up paying my loan and giving me enough to buy the 300D i have now

__________________
Java Developer/Linux SysAdmin

Current:
*1984 300D ~200K,1989 MR2 250K, 2012 Ford Fusion 4.5K (fiance's car to replace the uber-unsafe cavalier)
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Past: 1998 Chevy Cavalier ,2005 Saab 9-3 2.0T, 1996 Mazda Protege, 1974 Porsche 914 2.0, 1997 Land Rover Discovery 4.0L/5Speed, 1995 Jeep Wrangler

A few things.

The " loosing touch with steering" even though the coupler is good, is from the front toe being excessive. Either the control arm is bent or steering arm bent, either way no big deal.

I'd take a ride in the direction of the fleeing car / contact other nearby police depts. The car might have hit other cars or is known to police. Don't count on police depts doing any investigation on your behalf at this point, it isn't a large enough of a issue for them.

First off....

NO! - YouTube


Secondly- I KNOW that one way or another Bodhi will be repaired and back on the road!

Third....Did the police say that there is any chance of finding the hit and run driver? (Any idea what he was driving?)

Oh you don't have to explain this to us! I think we know all too well

__________________
1982 300GD Carmine Red (DB3535) Cabriolet Parting Out
1990 300SEL Smoke Silver (Parting out)
1991 350SDL Blackberry Metallic (481)

"The thing is Bob, its not that I'm lazy...its that I just don't care."

That really sucks.

I'd suggest you let a body shop check it out, then you will have an itemized list of the things that are wrong, and they will find whatever is wrong with the steering. Plus you will know what parts need to be replaced and you can make an informed decision whether to buy it back and do the repairs.

Problem with Delaware is the inspections, so you will have to repair the non-cosmetic damage.

And I hope it's not very bad.

Good luck.

After I calmed down a little, I did remember that when I first replaced the tie rods on my 240D, it drove similarly, with the wheel off-kilter and kind of the same funny feel, which went away when they aligned it. Obviously in that case it was because the new rods weren't adjusted yet but maybe in this case it's a rod that's been bent. It would have to be pretty slight, though, since I can't see it. Just out of curiosity, it it possible for a jarring impact to cause a car to go out of alignment without damaging anything? I know these cars are pretty sensitive to alignment. That would be a best-cast scenario, I guess.
Adjuster coming tomorrow to look at the body damage and give me an idea where I stand. My dad talked with a claims agent while I was in training, which was a big help. She told him the adjuster's estimate isn't a final say or set in stone. So we will listen to his or her assessment and go from there.
Thanks for all the support and advice ...

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

It is possible that a healthy whack can change the alignment - think stressed out mums driving up curbs / over old ladies with supermarket trollies. I think it is more likely, however, that the weakest link gets bent. It could be as simple as changing a tie rod.

Let's hope so eh?

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

X2
Sorry to hear of your nasty encounter. Hope they catch up with the other driver.
Some how I think its only going to need an alignment.
The 124 is a little more fragile than the 123 in the suspension.
Driving down a very rough dirt road can knock it out.
Make sure you get a 4 wheel alignment, not just the front.

Fingers crossed that you can find a couple of doors etc the same color instead of beating it out.

Good Luck with it !!

__________________
Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Good news so far: It was a very positive visit from the claims adjuster. For one, he obviously knew his stuff answered all the questions my dad and I had clearly. He was not at all inclined to total the car based on the damage. The rear door needs to be replaced, and the front door can be repaired or replaced depending on which is more cost effective. The insurance company gave me a check for the estimated damage and I can choose a body shop of my liking to do the work (or do some of it myself if I choose). The suspension may be another story, but he thought it was most likely just knocked out of alignment, and possibly bent the control arm. I can take it to the shop of my choice and if they find damaged components I can talk to the claims adjuster again. Or I have the option of just fixing additional problems at my own cost. So, I'm still worried about getting it all fixed, but the huge relief is the car isn't totaled.
I am going to go talk to my indy about the alignment this afternoon, then go to work for about 11 hours, then maybe ... sleep. After I get the alignment (or more) sorted, I will probably try the MB-certified body shop. They may be a bit expensive but I can at least get an opinion from them.

__________________
1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)

That's great news so far. Good communication in these situations is always the key. Now you can take a deep breath and move on to the next step in getting Bodhi well again!


.

__________________
1983 123.133 California
- GreaseCar Veg System

Let's hope the good news continues!

Good to hear, when my 300D got hit, luckily the owner was a good enough guy and knocked on my door. Sorry to hear you got hit and ran on.

__________________
68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

Damn. Sorry to hear that, C. We can only hope the other driver gets his due.

At least things sound promising on your end.

__________________

1980 300TD-China Blue/Blue MBTex-2nd Owner, 107K (Alt Blau) OBK #15
'06 Chevy Tahoe Z71 (for the wife & 4 kids, current mule) '03 Honda Odyssey (son #1's ride, reluctantly) '99 GMC Suburban (255K+ miles, semi-retired mule) 21' SeaRay Seville (summer escape pod)

If the car is pushed sideways things can bend. Also take a close look at the LF wheel / tire for damage, an impact to the wheel can " steer " the wheel and bend the steering arm. I know on the 124 / 129 the arms bolt to the spindle and are pretty thin, not sure about your car.

Don't adjust anything yet, the body shop / alignment guy will want it in its original form. If the control arm is bent or the mountings tweaked, changing / pulling those parts will bring the toe very close to specs. This way they will know the problem is found.

Out of alignment is caused by something bending, if slight the adjusters are turned and things recover, if bent too far parts need to be changed. With your car I don't expect anything too drastic since the wheel is more or less intact.