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#16
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Well, I just added a whole bottle of PS Diesel Kleen, a 20oz. bottle of Chevron Techron to a full tank of truck stop diesel (hoping to get a "fresh" supply). I then got on the interstate and ran it up to 75 MPH in third (RPM's around 4500-4800) and kept it there for about 7-10 minutes. When I finally got off at the exit and stopped at the light, the vibration was reduced significantly. It's starting to feel the same whether the car is in Neutral or Drive at a stopped position. Knock on wood...we may have it licked.
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Deuce '02 CLK430 (Nightwing) 54K '11 ML350 109K '21 VW Atlas (Wife's Rocket) '94 Bronco XLT (Son 1) '06 Honda Odyssey 180K (Sold) '02 E320 151K (Sold) '96 E300D (RIP Riggo - 12/16/2010) 198K '03 Honda Odyssey 34K (Sold) '95 E300D 145K (Sold) '01 Mazda Tribute 19K (Sold) |
#17
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The service writer should have told you the truth instead of BSing you!!!
A miss at idle is always caused by a bad muffler bearing. That's what I was told anyway...
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Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#18
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Not necessarily. Could be a worn battery gasket. Or headlight fluid.
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Matt Camara '83 300SD '85 Celica '98 Harley Springer Softail |
#19
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Or the Expedelemus could be shorting...
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#20
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Hmmmmm, ...expedelemus eh?
aw rats, now why didn't I see that one coming... I've spent a lot of money on headlight fluid at my indie already, so I knew about that! Thanks Duke! I'll go ask my indie about it! He doesn't charge much for questions like this.
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Ed 1981 300CD (Benzina) 1968 250 S (Gina) 266,000 miles! 1983 Alfa Romeo GTV6 (Guido) 1976 Jaguar XJS-saved a V-12 from the chevy curse, what a great engine! 1988 Cadillac Eldorado (better car than you might think!) 1988 Yamaha Venture (better than a Wing!) 1977 Suzuki GS750B 1976 Yamaha XS 650 (sold) 1991 Suzuki GSX1100G (Shafty Gixser) 1981 Yamaha VX920RH (Euro "Virago") Solex Moped 1975 Dodge P/U camper "Time spent in the company of a cat, a beer, and this forum, is not time wasted!" |
#21
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You guys are way off base - the negative bias to the reverse-biased injectors is probably intermittantly disappearing. I would check the computer that applies the negative bias to the injectors.
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#22
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It's Back
Well, looks like all the cleaning in the world won't fix this vibration. It showed up Tuesday after driving it a while. Looks like it's time to start swapping injectors. I'm taking it in next week for my mech. to work on it. We'll see what happens.
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Deuce '02 CLK430 (Nightwing) 54K '11 ML350 109K '21 VW Atlas (Wife's Rocket) '94 Bronco XLT (Son 1) '06 Honda Odyssey 180K (Sold) '02 E320 151K (Sold) '96 E300D (RIP Riggo - 12/16/2010) 198K '03 Honda Odyssey 34K (Sold) '95 E300D 145K (Sold) '01 Mazda Tribute 19K (Sold) |
#23
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Sounds like you have misaligned Johnson Rod.
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Gary 85 300D Ivory, 202,000 Beatus exsisto Jesu, verus et Deus verus Vir |
#24
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C'mon Gary - you of all people should know that Johnson Rods are only found on Gas engines!!
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#25
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Quote:
It's actually called Marvel Mystery Oil. It's blood-red (in fact, there are those who say that it's re-packaged ATF, but I think it is at least slightly different) and comes in metal cans (although I think theyr'e finally starting to use plastic) and can be had at just about any auto parts store. The can will be mainly red, with black and white graphics and whatnot on the side. Great stuff, but I actually found a couple things that could work better. One's called Seafoam. I haven't tried it in the fuel yet, but I put it in my truck's oil a while back; it seems to run smoother and be a bit more responsive. It's essentially working to clean out the oil galleries and such. It's supposed to be useable in oil and diesel fuel. The other...I actually don't remember the name of it right now. I got it from Kragen, and put it in the fuel of my truck...seemed to have more power and ran a bit quieter. The jury's still out on it, though...the truck broke down last weekend and I haven't torn into the truck to figure out why yet, but it's definitely fuel-related (need to replace the return lines at the injectors, and I also either need a lift or an injector pump ), and I don't know either way as to whether or not the additive made a difference. FWIW (I'm just starting to learn the quirks of M-B diesels, but I've been around diesels for a long time) I vote for an injector. The engine's too new to have anything internally wrong with it (i.e. I doubt you've lost compression), and you'd be getting lotsa smoke and be running rough while cold if it was a GP. Just my $.02
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2001 VW Jetta TDI, 5 speed, daily driver 1991 Ford F-350, work in progress 1984 Ford F-250 4x4, 6.9l turbo diesel, 5 speed manual Previous oilburners: 1980 IH Scout, 1984 E-350, 1985 M-B 300D, 1979 M-B 300SD, 1983 M-B 300D Spark-free since 1999 |
#26
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I have only two words to say about the vibration I used to have at idle....
Engine Mounts Looks like what I thought was a dropped cylinder was just a simple wear and tear item. My Mech still thinks that the original symptoms were those listed earlier, but, after replacing the mounts is inclined to believe that it was just bad fuel at that time. He told me when I first got the car that I needed to replace the mounts. I just didn't know how big a difference it would make. It's like someone dropped an gas engine in there. Oh, well. I'm loving it now and did have a good time with the posts here. If nothing else, I learned to make sure to keep an eye on my reverse-biased injectors and to be sure that my Johnson Rod doesn't get misaligned Have a nice day. Munsey
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Deuce '02 CLK430 (Nightwing) 54K '11 ML350 109K '21 VW Atlas (Wife's Rocket) '94 Bronco XLT (Son 1) '06 Honda Odyssey 180K (Sold) '02 E320 151K (Sold) '96 E300D (RIP Riggo - 12/16/2010) 198K '03 Honda Odyssey 34K (Sold) '95 E300D 145K (Sold) '01 Mazda Tribute 19K (Sold) |
#27
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Deuce:
I had a similar vibration in my 1987 300TD wagon after I purchased it. About two months after persistent use of PS (double dose at every fill up) and some occasional use of other cleaners, the vibration was reduced both in term of amplitude and frequency. At that point, I got the vibration, maybe 1 out of 5 times (compared to 1 out 2 times when I bought it), when stopped at a light at idle. Now it is four months after the persistent use of PS, the vibration is completely gone. I could not remember feeing it in the last month or so. In these four months, I have used some additional cleaners but mainly PS. I have used one bottle of Techron and some Gunk diesel fuel conditioner. Also lately I have been using a Premium Diesel fuel from Crystal Flash. My experience tells me that you might want to be patient and keep cleaning it up. In the mean time, also try to use some oil that has lots of detergent in it (CH-4 rated), if you are not already using it. I was thinking motor mounts all the way but cleaners did the job. It was not over night, but it did it. Originally I was preparing to change the mounts in the spring after the Michigan winter but now I am not going to tough them. Last edited by loubapache; 04-07-2002 at 09:10 PM. |
#28
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I totally agree with you on the use of additives. I actually am bouncing between PS and Howes right now. Although, I think I ruined all of my O-Rings with the last few tanks because I used too much additives (see previous posts). Last week the think started leaking like a sieve. He's over at the mechanics right now getting a whole new set.
As for the vibration, there isn't one anymore. I had the mounts replaced last Wednesday and it's like a brand new car. It starts smoother, idles smoother and shuts off smoother. If you've got any vibration while idling and still have the original mounts in there, I'd consider changing them out. Based on some of our previous discussions, you probably would be able to do the job yourself. The parts would run you about $100-$120 and take you half a day, tops. Anyway, thanks for the advice. I'm going to stick with the PS in every tank for maintenance and performance reasons. Have a good week.
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Deuce '02 CLK430 (Nightwing) 54K '11 ML350 109K '21 VW Atlas (Wife's Rocket) '94 Bronco XLT (Son 1) '06 Honda Odyssey 180K (Sold) '02 E320 151K (Sold) '96 E300D (RIP Riggo - 12/16/2010) 198K '03 Honda Odyssey 34K (Sold) '95 E300D 145K (Sold) '01 Mazda Tribute 19K (Sold) |
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