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  #1  
Old 05-03-2012, 11:59 PM
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Ticking after valve adjustment

Hey guys,


So I performed my first valve adjustment on my 1984 300D turbo. I made sure to make the chart so I knew which I was working on. I did the exhaust to .35mm, and I did the intake to .12mm. I didn't have .10mm, the closest I had was .12mm, which I thought was okay as the diesel giant page mentioned it didn't have to be totally exact, but I realized afterwards he meant like .102 would be okay.

Anyway, so I finished up, and drove the car. It idles better, drives smoother, acceleration is quicker, it's all around better. However, there's now a ticking in the valve cover area. I didn't notice it when the engine was cold and I first started it, but once it warmed up I noticed it.

From what I've been able to find, this could be from a lock nut I didn't properly tighten all of the way, or maybe for an incorrect adjustment. Could my .12mm instead of .10mm have caused that? And more importantly, I won't have time to get back in there for a couple days, is it dangerous/destructive to drive it like that? I know that's very general, but assuming it's an incorrect adjustment or something, can I drive it?

Thanks guys!

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Old 05-04-2012, 03:03 AM
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no,going 0.12 instead 0.10 can not cause that.
over here,we go 0.15 on intakes because they tend to tight.

did you go 12 o'clock or 1 o'clock position while adjusting valves?

.
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cho View Post
.

no,going 0.12 instead 0.10 can not cause that.
over here,we go 0.15 on intakes because they tend to tight.

did you go 12 o'clock or 1 o'clock position while adjusting valves?

.
Ah, okay. That's good then. And if I was standing in front of the car, facing the engine, they were more between the 11 and 12 o'clock position, like in the picture for the lobe position off of this article:

Mercedes Diesel Valve Adjustment Procedure

He says the 1 O'clock postion, but that would only be 1 o'clock if you were looking from the back of the engine. I turned the engine with the power steering pump bolt and made sure to turn clockwise. I'm thinking maybe I didn't tighten up the lock nuts very well on the first few I did or something.
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:58 AM
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well... there are some arguments going on forum about that one ...
11 o'clock ??...mmm... not sure...

search whunters post about correct valve adjustment procedure
I adjusted mine like that and I got smoother engine and sound.

however do inspect that ticking asap..


good luck mate


edit: could it be now you have smoothed valves you are hearing..say... injectors?

video or sound file would help much....



.
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Last edited by cho; 05-04-2012 at 04:23 AM.
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:46 AM
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I do not know if this from my notes applies or not:

Valve Rotors effecting the valve adjustment, valve rotor part number
617 Valve Adjustment Issues... - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum
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Old 05-04-2012, 01:58 PM
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When I adjust mine, I point the Cam Lobe to the oil pipe above the Cam shaft. that is about 1"oclock position.

Sears has a feeler gauge set with the correct feeler for the adjustment. Diesel Giant shows the part#.

I have read it is better to leave them a little on the loose side. I know when I get them adjusted down, then can't get the feeler back in. so back to screwing with it again. so if I go to the next size up, Iam close enough.
Usually it is the exhaust valve that seem to tighten up first.

I use the powering steering nut to rotate the engine with a 7/8 Gear Wrench,
just don't tell any one or I'll get yelled at.

Charlie
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Old 05-04-2012, 03:01 PM
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Typically, valve ticking usually means a valve that is a bit too loose on the manual adjustables like our cars have.

Do like Charlie says, line up the lobe points with the oil pipe.

I remove the fan an shroud an use the 27 mm bolt on the crank to turn the engine. That way I do not risk damaging or over tightening the PS pulley bolt. As the valves are adjusted, the engine get a bit more difficult to turn manually.
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Old 05-05-2012, 06:50 PM
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Thanks for all of the tips guys. I pulled the valve cover back off and re-checked them with the lobes pointing at the oil pipe. Most felt fine, but the first valve felt fairly loose and a couple others were questionable, so I readusted those and made sure all of the lock nuts were tight.

Once I did that I decided to clean the gasket surface. While going around, I bumped my hand into something I hadn't noticed, there was a loose object sitting behind the first bearing bridge. I thought I had broken something, but when I picked it up, I found it to be half of a hood release handle that had broken off! At first, I thought maybe it was the current one, but I looked up and it was still intact. I realized that someone must've broken the handle and accidentally dropped it in the oil fill hole, and amazingly enough, it just sat there and didn't destroy anything. I carefully looked for other pieces, but didn't find anything.

I don't think it was the cause of any ticking or anything, but it was crazy to find that sitting there. After re-assembling everything I took the car for a drive, I was able to detect a very light noise at first, but after a drive, it was not their. Now the car runs much quieter and smoother. It still has an injector hammer at low temp, but that's for another day. However, at warm, operating temp, me and my friends were in amazement of how much quieter it was running, and how much less it was vibrating. And honestly, I was able to pull it apart, check the valves and re-assemble in less then an hour. I encourage anyone who hasn't done that to do it asap!

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