this title should help those in the future....

Anyways, My transmission has been shifting very badly at low speeds. Loud thud, clunk, etc at the up and down shift.

I found this thread

124 Rough Shifting (Transmission Diag. Questions)

so I tested the vacuum coming off the main line. I am getting 25" at idle which is clearly too much. I didn't test at a higher idle since I have to leave for work soon and I broke the vacuum line going to that T. I have it patched temporarily with some hose I found.

Later today when I get home from work I'll test more and follow that thread.

Some notes

My center vents decided to stop venting recently
The main vacuum line coming off the pump to the booster looks a bit rough. The plastic saucer part has some goop on it like it was broken and someone tried to fix it.

Ordered a new main booster line as a preventive measure since mine is old and brittle.. Normally would buy from here but cannot locate it and Id like it today. Got it locally from my favorite VW parts house (of all places, and I dont even own a dub!)

Anyone?

I guess I qualify.

What is the Vacuum at the line down by the Modulator?

When I had really harsh down shifts it was due the Vacuum Line being disconnected ad the Modulator.

I have also read of the Moudlator Cap cracking or even being missing.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'll check those

How do your diff mounts and driveshaft carrier look? That was part of my problem.

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68 280SL - 70 280SL - 70 300SEL 3.5 - 72 350SL - 72 280SEL 4.5 - 72 220 - 72 220D - 73 450SL - 84 230GE - 87 200TD - 90 190E 2.0 - 03 G500

Nissan GTR - Nissan Skyline GTS25T - Toyota GTFour - Rover Mini - Toyota Land Cruiser HJ60 - Cadillac Eldorado - BMW E30 - BMW 135i

I have not looked at those yet.

I just replaced the vacuum booster hose. The original had a broken check valve nipple. I finally wrestled the thing in place and the brown line that connects to the nipple is broken but I have a very tight piece of rubber hose connecting the broken pieces. But the nipple end has a rubber hose that does not look to be OEM and since there is a bend it allows for a space to open and I think there is a vacuum leak there.

Now the car takes 2-3 seconds to shut off instead of instantly.

Found some vacuum connectors I had on a W123 door lock solenoid. Cut it to size and it works great. Next time I go to the junkyard I'll be grabbing as many good vacuum connectors as I can