The terminal on the 85 pump is the variable idle control I believe. You may be able to apply a fixed voltage if deemed required to make this engine idle like the one you are removing. I do not remember anyone else adapting the 85 pump to a lower year. It may have no issues at all other than the idle will not vary by electrical input for all I know.

I still do not think it is the injection pump itself. On the otherhand there is not much really left. If the milli volts had all read the same I would have tended to discount it even more.

That electrical connection is for a rack position sensor that sends information to the EGR computer on an 85TD. It can be ignored.

__________________
1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

I stand corrected, the drip is definitely more accurate than timing marks.


If the pump really is shot, and you have the funds, do yourself a favor-buy a Myna pump to replace the stock pump

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

It would still not be an issue as long as the dri[p test was where it should be. Or thats my take on the issue.

Barry you are correct about the timing. Thanks so much for all of the replies guys!
I just fired it up and it runs ok but not great. I don't have my drip tube on hand as I loaned it to a friend and he mailed it back and its not here yet. It has a pretty choppy idle almost like its cutting out on one cylinder. I am wondering if my timing is retarded. The electrical input is to be left alone right, because its unhooked. Thanks again for all the input!

__________________
2008 Ford F-250 6.4 Power Stroke Diesel Lariat 4X4
2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 8.0 V10 4X4
1990 Toyota Pickup OM617 Turbo 5spd
1987 Suzuki Samurai
1985 Porsche 944
1983 Mercedes 300D Turbo (parts car)
1982 Mercedes 300D Turbo 322k and counting.

Sorry about my take on the electrical connection on the pump. Its use affecting the idle came later in years I think.

Is the power up substantually now or raw fuel smell gone from the exhaust? A quick timing test is the spill port method. It should be in the archives. Usually the injection timing is not all that critical on these indirect injection engines. You have to be quite a bit off to get serious symptoms.

I haven't even take it out of the shop yet. It is missing on cyl. 1. I can crack the rest of the lines and they make a difference in how it runs but 1 doesn't. It is getting fuel to the injector but it seems to have air in it. I tried replacing it with another injector I had just to be sure. It didn't change it. So next I compression tested it and the #1 has 390 cold. One thing I noted to was that the engine gets hot quick. I let it run for maybe 5 minutes to try to trouble shoot it and the upper radiator is almost too hot to touch. According to my temp gauge its not getting over 130 but that still is abnormal from the way it ran before. I'm at a loss and really frustrated with it. I'm almost to the point of switching pumps again. I really don't know. My drip tube wont be back until next week. Oh and the exhaust smokes a white haze at idle and smells really raw.

__________________
2008 Ford F-250 6.4 Power Stroke Diesel Lariat 4X4
2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 8.0 V10 4X4
1990 Toyota Pickup OM617 Turbo 5spd
1987 Suzuki Samurai
1985 Porsche 944
1983 Mercedes 300D Turbo (parts car)
1982 Mercedes 300D Turbo 322k and counting.

You probably should pop test that injector and maybe even rebuild 1 or 2 of the spares you have just to start the elimination from the injector side of the fuel delivery on number 1, and eliminate that so that the IP becomes suspect. The overall is that it's down on power, not that just one cylinder is missing, right? So the IP might be the culprit in this. Mess with the timing toward the advanced side. If the injectors are tired, they're firing early, so that would be an advanced situation. So, get them situated, and work from there. I'd hate to see all this good work go to waste. Just kiddin, I know it won't got to waste, but this kinda thang is frustrating as hell.

__________________
1985 300D-189k The 'UD', Ivory and Pinkamino
1979 300D-211k Dark Gray, Parchment
A 1980 Harley-~166k and
A 1994 Ford diesel pickup-349k and
A 1990 gasser Volvo wagon-145k

The chances that two different injection pumps in some way are producing strong raw fuel odour out the tailpipe and an unusual haze are just not good. To me it indicates the first injection pump may be fine. Originally I saw no indication it was really bad anyways.

It is pretty obvious that there is another real issue with the second pump as well though. The first pump was not producing one very weak or dead cylinder. The new compression reading on a fresh rebuilt also sounded much better at 390 lbs.

To me something odd is going on still. The engine should be burning the fuel supplied and is not burning most of it. I suspect even the haze is unburnt fuel mist. Yet you have still covered the common stuff it seems earlier to me. So that leaves the uncommon stuff to my way of thinking.

Compiling a list of what could stop this engine from burning it's supplied fuel might be a new starting point. There are not that many things on such a list.

Thank you guys for your help I really appreciate it. Barry I agree with your thinking that the pump is probably not the problem and I believe I am going to put the old pump back on. The #1 port on this pump doesn't have enough pressure to pop the injector. I took an old line and tried several injectors out in the open and got nothing. I am going to have this pump rebuilt later on down the line. I am also going to get the injectors re done now that funds allow. I am going to go back and triple check all of the basic things too just to be sure. Thanks again I really appreciate it.

__________________
2008 Ford F-250 6.4 Power Stroke Diesel Lariat 4X4
2000 Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 8.0 V10 4X4
1990 Toyota Pickup OM617 Turbo 5spd
1987 Suzuki Samurai
1985 Porsche 944
1983 Mercedes 300D Turbo (parts car)
1982 Mercedes 300D Turbo 322k and counting.

You might want to open up the first delivery valve on that second pump. Making sure the elements piston is just not stuck at the top of it's bore. Just put a little penatrating oil on it and tap it down if it is. Also inspect the delivery valve carefully. You could not time that pump in without the number one producing flow easily anyways.

Not unusual for an elements piston to seize in a pump sitting around dry. I am not a big fan of having injection pumps rebuilt or recalibrated unless the need is proven. Nor using a piston pump that has sat around dry.

Assuming and that is dangerous that the injection pumps where roughly timed in properly or close enough. Even if they were not quite right I would still expect the fuel to have been burnt. The engines refusal to burn all the fuel has to be lack of incoming air caused by a restriction.

You obviously have experience with engines so I assume the intake valves are set close enough to open well even if they are off a little. . . Normally if you get fuel in and have good compression it will always burn the fuel if nothing else. If burning it inneficiently you will get black or dirty smoke but it still burns.

I am not sure yours is the first case on this site that will not burn all it's fuel to this extreme. If not there has not been many of them if the engine has compression.

I keep telling myself I could be wrong. At the same time considering any other senario that could have gone wrong during the rebuild and coming up empty. Other than a fairly major restriction introduced that is. Perhaps someone else has a better ideal. I am not always right.

I didn't know you were ever having troubles with your #1 cylinder not firing. Did you ever figure it out?