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#1
05-12-2012, 02:59 PM
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separating a tranny?!
got an inch gap all around and seems to be stuck,
before i go with other means ..ahem force of some kind.. don't see anything left that should or needs to be disconnected on the outside that could be a prob anything i'm missing or need to look out for before going forward? tia ` 300D turbo engine/tranny combo (~ 82), not in a car Last edited by 300D85; 05-12-2012 at 05:05 PM. 
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#2
05-12-2012, 03:03 PM
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Input shaft is probably getting stuck. I had a Delorean transmission do the same. Lifed the bad engine by crane and it still hung on there.
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#4
05-12-2012, 05:01 PM
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actually, i haven't unbolted the TC yet..
had a google with a thread that indicated the TC should be taken off with the tranny ("never by attachment to the engine" i assume that could stress the flex-plate?) the thread also indicated that access to the TC bolts is via a plug (5" diameter) covered hole at the bottom of the engine, i'm not clear on the nub part? but assume that it can hang hence the tranny might require some persuasion for separation
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#5
05-12-2012, 05:24 PM
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There is a small black plastic locking plug that holds the torque converter in the case,...I think it will have an allen head cast into the plug. If you brush off the bottom of the trans. you will see it....dig in tihe center and clean the crud out of the female allen key recepticle and use an allen key to give the plug a half turn and pull out/down. That should free up the torque convertor, to come off with the engine.....
But, I think if you read what you wrote it says to undo the torque converter bolts so the torque converter stays with the transmission....otherwise you will spill tranny fluid out the hub of the torque converter when you pull the engine....unless you drain the torque converter with which there is a plug to drain it. The plug to drain the torque converter is in the same location as the bolts to undo the torque converter from the flywheel/ring gear. I think there are three spots on the torque converter with 2 nuts at each spot for a total of six nuts that you need to undo to loosen the torque converter (leave the nut in the middle alone, and they should be a different size). I think you will find a third nut at each of the three spots (in the middle of the two requiring removal)on the torque convertor....that one nut in the middle is not to be undone as it holds the ring gear to the flange that bolts to the crankshaft.....I am not sure if it is in a critical sequence to be part of balance for the crankshaft. You will need to be able to turn the engine to take the torque convertor off as you will take 2 bolts off and turn the engine to get access to the next two and so on to the third set. I think that leaving the torque converter with the trans. is the best way to avoid unwanted strain to the hub and input shafts of the front transmission pump....it looks to be made of brass or something and would be easy to scratch, upon engine removal Is the engine coming out seized?
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#6
05-12-2012, 06:51 PM
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spare engine/tran unit (turns ok) i bought, engine in car has a knock, nevertheless hums, starts great etc
also bought another engine that came with TC attached, i have an MB manual floating around on another 'pute... Last edited by 300D85; 05-12-2012 at 07:14 PM.
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#7
05-12-2012, 07:31 PM
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I think that if you crawl under the car after safely supporting it with jackstands then your best bet is to take the access cover off and remove the 6 bolts that hold the torque converter on and leave the torque converter in the trans. Hopefully now that you have walked the trans away from the engine you don't now have problems turning the transmission.....I am thinking that some splines might be half engaged.....or the hub of the torque converter is not riding were it should be.
Maybe if you are crawling under the car to undo the t/c bolts then you should rest the engine back in the craddles if it is not already.... and support the tranny so it does'nt fall on you. I was just thinking if you wanted to do it your way to just pull that allen head plug mentioned above....but I don't think you will have room with the t/c attached to clear the front rad support and the firewall, and don't forget that brass pump bearing is at risk doing this way... but supposse you could pull it at an angle...but at that point might as well pull the trans. and engine as a unit. (if you do that put a couple bolts back in to hold the engine to the trans.) Taking the torque converter bolts out and leaving the torque converter in the transmission is the best way to do this in my opinion, but just not sure, now that you started whether you should turn the transmission. There are some tabs inside there that you don't want to break off. Last edited by macdoe; 05-12-2012 at 08:01 PM.
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#9
05-12-2012, 09:34 PM
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OH, well then once you take the plug out with the allen key then the trans should slide off unless it is stuck on the shaft as mentioned. Did you find the allen head plug on the bottom of the bell housing and remove it?
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#10
05-13-2012, 03:01 AM
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1) Disconnect the torque converter from the flex plate
2) Push the torque converter "back" towards the transmission 3) Undo the casing bolts between adapter plate / engine block and transmission You shouldn't have to mess with the plastic bung in the bell housing at this stage. I think you may just need to wiggle it - just a little bit...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior  Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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