While doing other work under the Rear of the Car I looked up and found that the Boots on my 5 Year Old Cardone Rebuilt CV Axles were Cracking.
There is no makers name on the Stock Type Boots; just a part number BT-309.

I bought the Axles at what was Kragens Auto Parts and they do have a life time warranty.
The Problem with that is I do not know where the Paper Work is and it has since changed to O’reilly Autoparts. (O’reilly did honor the exchange of a Master Cylinder I had bought at Kragens.)

The Axles were otherwise good. I did not want to exchange them for another set of rebuilts because of the declining quality of rebuilt parts.
Also about 3 years ago I had bought a Cone Type CV Boot Installation Tool that I had never used and did not know if it would even fit. So, I wanted to try that.

I needed to find a cheaper than the local $17+tax source of the Dorman 614-001 Universal Boot Kits, I and read of occasions of Boots ripping during installation and it was clear that I might need more boots than I planned.

I looked around and I found that Amazon had the Dorman 614-035 CV Boot Promotional Kit for $148 (shipping was free). The significance of that is that the kit included a Dorman 614-030 Pneumatic Boot Spreader + 614-012 that is a box of 12 Dorman 614-001 Boot kits (also has clamps and Grease).

So this offered a chance to try out the Pneumatic Tool and get the Boots I needed at an over all low price.

While waiting for the Dorman stuff to arrive I tried out the Cone tool on the “Cans” on the Axle and found that it only partly fit.
You can see in the pics it would only slid partly onto the Can leaving a big gap for the Boot and Tongs to pass over.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I took a File and Sand Paper to the inside of the Cone to enlarge the inside diameter. While it was slow going I did not need to remove much to get it to fit properly. I found out that there is an Aluminum reinforcement ring at the very end of the Cone .

I also found out I needed to drill a hole in the very tip of the Cone to let the Air in and out or it was difficult to remove the Cone once it was slide over the “Can”.
Pic Boot Cone 4

So I lubed the Cone with Generic STP (I already had that and I knew it would work; we have no Pledge) and followed the instructions to load the Boot onto the Cone. I slid Cone-Boot-Tongs over the Axle “Can” and gave a might shove. And, either the Boot caught on the Can Lip or the thickness of the Metal Tongs was too much and stretched the Boot too much as it went over the Can Crimped Lip and the Boot Split.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I wanted to finish that Axle so I gave up on the Tongs, Turned the Boot inside out and used the Cone by itself (be sure to re-lube the cone because I found out the Boot is going to stick and be real hard to get off of the Cone). As long as the Cone is Well Lubed and you have the strength enough to pull on the Boot it was not too hard. I did not have trouble turning the Boot right side out. And, neither boot ripped.

I bought a Powerbuilt CV Boot Banding Tool (Part # 648479) from a local Store for about $10 for the Dorman type Band Clamps.
A little awkward to use but otherwise worked fine. The directions for use are on the back of the Bubble Pack.

You will also need something to cut the excess Band Camp off; I used a Tin Snips.

When I tried using the Dorman Pneumatic Tool I ripped another Boot.
I again ended up using the Cone by itself to complete the 2nd Axle.

The little 3 oz Grease packets that come with the Dorman Boot Kits is not enough. I suggest packing as much Grease as you can into the Cans and Boots.

The Cone Tool is an Astro Pneumatic CV Boot Installer Set #7831. Amazon and Toolrage sell them.

My inept adventures with the Dorman Pneumatic tool is covered in Post #32
Has Anyone Used: Doorman Uni-Fit CV Boot Air Tool

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Did you put the boot in boiling water to soften it before installation?

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85 300D turbo pristine w 157k when purchased 161K now
83 300 D turbo 297K runs great. SOLD!
83 240D 4 spd manual- parted out then junked

No, I insalled the Boots at room temp which was around 75 degrees F.

Dorman also makes a special Boot Installation Lube. I did not use that either.

No Boots were ripped when I used only the Cone and my Hands. That stretches the Boot to the minimum amount needed to get over the Cans.

Also when I used the Cone by Hand the Boot was on Inside out and the Fat end of the Boot went over the Can first. That way there was no way for the small end of the Boot to get hung up on the Can crimped Lip.

The Generic STP was messey but entirely adequate as a lube.

When using the Dorman Pneumatic Tool you can see from the Pic that at least some of the Boots had the ability to stretch without breaking; yet one broke.

Part of the reason I did things the way I did is I wanted to see if the 2 Tools would work they way they were supposed to without any extra stuff like heating up the Boots.

Also I pulled the Boots on with my Bare Hands. I would not have wanted to grab a 212 degree F Boot.

I might as well mention this also.
The Stock Boot Clamps are the Oetiker type Clamps that use a Pliers type Tool to crimp them on.
If you decided to go into business rebooting Axles the Dorman Clamps are more time consuming to install and you need to watch what you are doing more closely.

However, the grooves on large end of the Dormam Boots are more narrow than the Stock Mercedes Oetiker Clamps.

From the Diesel Giants Pics the Flexx Boots seem to have a wider clamp area.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I gave up with them there cones and bought a boot gun.

My fingers weren't strong enough - I need to eat more Ready Brek...

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

since I switched to the flexx 3000 boots, I've not torn a single one. installation goes very smoothly, and the thicker boot seems like it'll last a decade longer than the 3001 thinner boot.

I'm waaaaay behind on getting boots done, though.

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Was this a Cone made to do the job or an ATF Funnel?

Also I did the Job with the Axle in a Vice.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

In my case I went with what was the least expensive.

12 Boot kits+Pneumatic Tool $148. I did not expect to have the problem I did with the Pneumatic Tool. So if I figuerd each was woth 1/2 the cost I paid about $6.17 for each Boot Kit.
On Boot Kit bought at Autozone is $17 each.

Also the 2 busted Boots yielded created 2 extra Grease Packets that I used and the kept me from buying more Grease.

I think it has been mentioned in the DIY section that Dorman also has a larger thicker Boot for SUVs 614-003.

In any event I am not recommending Dorman products I am just relating my experience.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

A specially bought cone with a hex shaft on the end for clamping in a vice and everything...

I think I was probably using the wrong boots - the boot gun ripped 3 of them anyway.

To be honest I thought it was a total bloody nightmare of a job. So much so that when I saw some cheap axles for sale I bought them and completely re-built them. I stripped them down to component parts. These "new" axles will be fitted to the car and I'll be stripping out the originals when I have some more time on my hands. I don't want no ^%^*&$^ing flexx boots any where near me any more!

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I am sure the Stock type boots will rip.

It could be a good write-up just to see what types of boots are available in Europe.

I believe I had read that at least on one occasion a Flexx Boot
ripped.

But, that was with an ATF Funnel and no one has settled on what is the perfect lube that is going to work all of the time.

I istalled the first Boot (used the Cone Tool) with the STP type stuff and that worked OK. I did not re-lube it for the next try and the Boot got really stuck on the Cone.

With the help of my Wife I got the Boot off; lubed it good and was able to install the Boot with no further problem.

I am not sure what I was doing wrong with the Dorman Pneumatic. If I lubed it the Boot shot off; with no lube the Boot would not move. When I tried to hold the Boot on with Lube it ripped.
In one of the Dorman ads a special lube was show but I have not seen anyplace selling it.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I'm glad to hear the wife helped - there were a few youtube videos involving "the wife" and an axle cone installation tool a few years ago... I'm not sure if they are still there...

Anyway team building is generally a good thing in a relationship!

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Did mine over the winter with Dorman boots from autozone, used a funnel that was close to the right size and cut it down. Also sanded off all the mold lines and sharp parts.

I put the thick, center part of the axle in a vice, away from where the clamps would be holding the boot. Used old gear oil from the axles to lube the cone, had my brother hold the end sticking and just yanked with my whole body. Needed tons of force and made a sound like the end of the world but I didn't break one.

We'll see how they hold. Have seen some small cracking already so I'm nervous and will probably use a different boot next time.

What life are people getting from Dorman boots?

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'85 300TD

Like you said about the Body Weight. If you can lean your Body into it you need to use less Muscle.

Well, that is sad to hear after just installing the Dorman Boots.
Did you use the 614-001 or the 614-003 Dorman Boots?

From what I have read on the Threads after that Guy made the Video and where to find the Video a lot of people started rebooting their Axles. I think at the most that was 4 years ago since the Vid became well known.

The CARDONE Rebuilt Axles used Stock type Boots and they lasted 5 years before showing visible Cracks; not just surface Cracks.
Others have used the Dorman Boots and yours is the first I have read about premature cracking.

Dorman Sells Silicone Boots for use near the Exhaust Pipe or Manifold. I had wondered if they would like be the Ultimate Boot for lasting a long time but was worried about the Cost verses the chance of ripping a Boot.
So, I decided not to try them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I used a cheap atf funnel (HF): to prep it i cut the lip off the big end, sanded smooth, and heated the center w make sure it wouldn't move any.
ith a propane torch to force it further onto the cv can. It distorted the shape of the funnel a little but it was still smooth and fit well.

For good leverage I took my bench vice and mounted it to a square of plywood and set the whole thing on the floor where I could stand on the plywood and push straight down with the axle in the vice. I did have the tie the bottom can off to the vice to make sure it wouldn't move any.
ny.

After struggling with pulling, pushing, grease on everything, and ripping a boot in frustration, the last two went so easy. Soaking the boot in really hot water (not quite boiling) was a huge help. The best thing I learned, though, was to not have greasy hands or oil/grease on the outside of the boot. Lubed up the cone with oil (I used a sponge) then cleaned my hands (or changed my vinyl gloves); Then got the boot out the hot water, shook the water off, set the boot on the lubed cone and pushed the boot down the cone with my hands only touching the clean outside of the boot (good grip using just open palms). Once enough of the boot went past the cone it was easy to grab and pull the rest of the way.

I used the 614-001 , but I'm also wondering if anyone has used the 614-003

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1985 300TD 1981 Scirocco 1.6D conv 1986 Golf 1.6D 2003 Golf TDI