Thanks a bunch for that diagram, I was looking and couldn't find one. You happen to know what the numbers represent? Whats #5? I can't feel any junction box. It seems like the line is one straight line from the MC to the rear split.


Edit--- Nvm I realized I was looking at it backwards and #5 is the MC.


I really really don't want to drop the sub frame . I have a feeling I'll be opening a can of worms. I am thinking if I can unclamp the line and pull it out, I may be able to patch it. If not I can at least use it as a template to pre-bend it before putting in a new line. Though if I put in a whole new line I am guessing I really will have to drop the sub-frame.

Is there any good reason not to just patch it. Cut out a few feet and put in a new pipe with the flares?

Does anyone sell the tube pre-bent?

Thanks again everyone

I'm considering replacing the whole thing from the MC to the wheels. I imagine the split connector is going to be locked up nice and tight and the rubber hoses off the hard lines could probably use replacement.

Any idea what that would run me from the dealer?

I couldn't remember but I did a search and according to a post I made a few years ago it was about 50 to 60 euros for the long pipe

Need some help with fuel line replacement

Another thread for you here

Hard brake line repair/replace?


PS I don't think any one in their right mind would want to drop the sub frame for this job. They probably will wish they did about half the way through though! The thing that will help you the most with or with out the sub frame is enough height between the floor and the bottom of the car to stop you from fighting the brake line whilst trying to bend it.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Here in CA they have no State Safety Inspections so that could be done here.
It is going to depend on where the leak is and how much Tubing is on either side of the Leak.
Some People have used a Hydraulic Union, see pic.

I do not see why a used line from the Junk Yard would not work. The cost would be minimal but to go there is time consuming.

I have not had to use it yet but I bought a Bubble Flaring Kit when I saw a good price on one from eBay.
If I was doing it I would buy new Tubing and make a new Line.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Here is some incredable copper alloy brake line that is easily shaped with your fingers and it won`t kink, and won`t rust.

Cunifer brake tubing.

Federal Hill Trading Company


Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

troubles removing front brake lines
A quote from Post #11 of the above thread.
"The chain autoparts retailers carry generic steel brake lines for "European" cars. It's the same size as the MB OEM. I bought mine from Advance Auto Parts for under $10. Just be careful and patient when bending them yourself, so you avoid kinking the lines."

I have also read that the Tubing you get from Mercedes comes straight and you need to bend it.
If you feel the need for it I think Harbor Freight sells the lever type Tubing Benders.

It is also possible that the common Coiled Spring Type Tubing Bender would work.
Just about ever Autopart store sellse the spring type Tubing benders that you slide over the Line.
While they are a better fit if there is no Flare already on the tubing if you slide the Fitting back you should be able to slide one that has close fit because the Bubble F

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

This is the sort of thing I bought

Brake Pipe and Tube Bender | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

It is small enough to bend the brake line whilst you're doing some sort of weird Karma Sutra thang with the brake line under the car...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I think you can rent a bender from autozone for free. I still have to check.

I went ahead and ordered the parts from Mercedes dealership. Everything but the hoses which were way over priced. It wasn't too bad. I think it was around 120-130 including the splitter which was the most expensive. Thats the line from the MC to the splitter and the right/left lines prebent. I'll grab the hoses from autozone or advanced auto.

Looks like my vacuum pump might be leaking a little oil which was the cause of the smoke I mentioned. Seems like everytime I fix one thing a new thing pops up

After this I am taking a break, my wallet needs to recover. Fingers crossed.

Next time I will buy that special tool. I had to cut out the old brake line nut that attached to the hose, completely locked even with Liquid wrench. So of course it stripped.

Then I had a lot of trouble getting the line from the MC to attach to the junction Tee. It kept dripping ever so slightly even fully tightened. It ended up stripping pretty bad. After a seriously tight vice grip I managed to get it to spin one more slight turn and the leak stopped (fingers crossed). I bled it and kept checking to make sure it didn't leak and it wasn't so I am hoping its good now. I have a feeling it went into the threads a hair off and that final turn straightened it out.

It was super easy to get the hose in there. No problem at all with that. Didn't need to drop the sub frame I just snaked it through. I left the original hosing in place until I finished up everything so I could follow its path. Really no need for bender, I was able to shape it quite easily with my hands.

Brakes are super tight now. Better than they were before the leak, so I am happy.

Anyone about to do this make sure you get the right tool for the brake line nuts. It would have saved me a few hours.

As a side note, someone must have taken pity on me at the Mercedes dealership. It was suppose to cost around $140 with the three lines and junction box, but for some reason they only charged me $55. I said to the cashier guy " this seems low" and he just told me "It's not a mistake on my end, so if I were you, I'd just let it go". I walked out really slowly just in case...

Thanks again everyone

To add a few points:
You don't need a special tool to do bubble flare fittings. If you have the more common "double flare" tool, you can find several youtube videos showing how to make bubble flares with it (trick is use the flat side for final crimp). You could also get brakes lines w/ bubble flares cheap from a junkyard. I got some off an Intrepid when I pulled the MC (later found they were bubble flare).

To avoid rust in the future, use silicone brake fluid as I do. You will hear rants about it. My simple response is that the U.S. military uses it and they don't do anything without detailed study. I put in my 1984 300D when I changed the M.C.. It was leaking into the booster so I had to remove it and stuff rags to get the fluid out. If regular brake fluid gets thru the booster diaphragm into the vacuum system, I expect it would eat up your vacuum pump (expensive).

The problem with simple analyses is that they ignore important details. The primary factors (extreme cold-weather operation, long-term storage considerations and logistics simplification) that caused the military to choose silicone brake fluid are non-issues for the typical automobile owner.

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