I cannot seem to find a torque spec for the high temp hex nuts(M10) used to fasten the manifold/cylinder head and turbo/exhaust manifold connections, in either the FSM or Haynes. Anybody got a number?
Peter Ferguson

If anyone does, they most likely pulled it out of thin air.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

I can't help I've had a look through the original language FSM to see if there is more information there - there is but there's no mention that I can find of the torque for those pesky nuts.

Do you know if any petrol engines of the same vintage have the same size nuts?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

I don't know if these hexnuts are used on other models, but suspect that they are. I removed the manifolds for the first time in almost 30 years and was surprised at how loose they seemed to be, especially the three at the rear of the engine. They were almost finger tight; I had expected them to put up a fight to get them off. It was clear that oil carried over into the intake manifold had been leaking down in great enough quantity to leave the side of the block covered and cause a small pool on the garage floor. That is actually the good news as I thought it was coming from the head gasket. I am going to put it back together without changing out the head gasket and cross my fingers that the manifold gasket was the source--it was an oily mess.
In any event, I wanted to make sure that I got the new nuts reinstalled correctly, and will probably check them again after a few trips to retorque them.
The inside of the intake manifold was an ugly mess, what with the egr having been in operation in the engine's early years, and the oil carryover. I took it and the exhaust manifold to the local machine shop and they both cleaned up beautifully for $40--well worth it.
Peter

If you remove one of the Manifold Studs you will find that there is only 4 Thread holding the Studs into the Head.

That means they cannot take too Much Torqe.

From what I have read you are supposed to use Solid Copper Mainfold Nut to prevent someone from over torquing them.

I cannot remember what it was but I did find a torque spec in something like a Motors imported Car manual or it may have been in my Mitchelle's Mercedes repair CD I have.
I cannot run the program that reads the CD because it will not work on the 64 bit system I have now.

Sorry My memory is so bad.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

Does anyone have the part numbers for the 17 mm self locking Nuts and the Washers?

I was told the studs are NLA

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-SpecialDelivery
1985 300CD Silver/Blue H&R Suspension (Sold, still cryin over that)
1982 300SD Silver/Blue '85 OM617 (Sold)
1982 300D - Blue/Blue (Sold)