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  #1  
Old 05-27-2012, 05:05 PM
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W210 Battery Charging

Hi,

Parents E300D seems to have a flaky battery. I'm going to put a standard, low-rate smart, microprocessor based battery charger.

What scares me is this:



Why would the w210 be so sensitive in terms of electronics that I'd need to pull the negative cable to charge the battery?

Does anyone maintenance charge their w210 without disconnecting it? Don't want to fry some obscure part.

My 2011 BMW charges the battery via an underhood lug like on the W210 without any issues.

Thanks!
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  #2  
Old 05-27-2012, 06:23 PM
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I have a permanently-mounted smart charger on my '96 E300D; the cord comes out down behind the removable panel in the lower bumper surround along with the block heater cord. All I have to do is to plug it into an outlet any time I want to top up the battery. Has been on the car for several years without problems.

One thing to watch is that all of these "smart" chargers draw a little current. It isn't enough to harm the battery but if the car is put away for a significant portion of time (all winter, for example) than the charger needs to be either disconnected or connected to power, which you would probably do anyway.

If you are at all concerned about over-charging the battery, just put the charger on a timer so it only works a couple of hours a day.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) 201,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) 290,000 miles Wife's car

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  #3  
Old 11-28-2012, 06:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
I have a permanently-mounted smart charger on my '96 E300D; the cord comes out down behind the removable panel in the lower bumper surround along with the block heater cord. All I have to do is to plug it into an outlet any time I want to top up the battery. Has been on the car for several years without problems.

One thing to watch is that all of these "smart" chargers draw a little current. It isn't enough to harm the battery but if the car is put away for a significant portion of time (all winter, for example) than the charger needs to be either disconnected or connected to power, which you would probably do anyway.

If you are at all concerned about over-charging the battery, just put the charger on a timer so it only works a couple of hours a day.

Jeremy
Hello,

I am looking to install a block heater somewhere in the engine bay. Any advice on the best location would be appreciated along with the odd pic.

If you have similar info on the best route and removable panel as this could be an option too, what sort of waterproof connector do you use?

Cheers,
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1998 Mercedes W210 300TD -110k

Last edited by spock505; 11-28-2012 at 06:50 AM.
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  #4  
Old 11-28-2012, 01:01 PM
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Block heater

The London area doesn't get that cold, do you really need to use a block heater?

Depending on which car you're talking about, it may already have a block heater. All OM60x engines exported to the USA got block heaters but I don't know about those shipped to the UK. The block heater in these engines is on the exhaust side of the block, along towards the rear of the engine. If there is no block heater there will be a plug that can be unscrewed (usually with difficulty) and a block heater installed.

The cord is run along the chassis, avoiding hot exhaust pipes, to the front of the car. A cap for the plug is available from electric shops but is not absolutely required. (The factory block heater is threaded so that the factory electric cord can screw into it, making a weatherproof seal at the heater itself.)

A last possibility is a heater that installs in the lower radiator hose. I had one of those in my 1985 300D-T. It isn't quite as efficient as the block-installed heater but easier to install in some engines.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) 201,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) 290,000 miles Wife's car

"Politicians are the same all over the world;
we build bridges where there aren't any rivers."
-- Nikita S. Khrushchev
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  #5  
Old 11-28-2012, 02:34 PM
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The reason for the sticker is that they are worried about a voltage spike when connecting a charger that is already powered on or jumper cables. Permanently connecting a small smart charger will probably be okay.
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  #6  
Old 11-28-2012, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
The London area doesn't get that cold, do you really need to use a block heater?

Depending on which car you're talking about, it may already have a block heater. All OM60x engines exported to the USA got block heaters but I don't know about those shipped to the UK. The block heater in these engines is on the exhaust side of the block, along towards the rear of the engine. If there is no block heater there will be a plug that can be unscrewed (usually with difficulty) and a block heater installed.

The cord is run along the chassis, avoiding hot exhaust pipes, to the front of the car. A cap for the plug is available from electric shops but is not absolutely required. (The factory block heater is threaded so that the factory electric cord can screw into it, making a weatherproof seal at the heater itself.)

A last possibility is a heater that installs in the lower radiator hose. I had one of those in my 1985 300D-T. It isn't quite as efficient as the block-installed heater but easier to install in some engines.

Jeremy
Thanks for the reply.

Yes, London does tend to stay a few degrees above the rest of the country, although I am in MK which is a bit further North.

The vehicle/engine in question is 1998 W210 300TD fitted with OM606 engine.

I'll have a look for the plug which you mention in the side of the block, that said I don't think I have seen the core type for sale here. A special part like that from MB would cost a fortune as possibly non standard here.

This is the after market unit which is more common here and fits into the smaller heater hoses. Having looked at the two hose running into the duo valave I am not sure which one would yield the best results?

From memory, there is one feed and valve to each side of the vehicle so need to splice in before the valve?


Kenlowe Hotstart HS4 2.7Kw 230v Engine Pre-Heater - YouTube
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  #7  
Old 11-29-2012, 12:31 AM
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I'll bet the warning is there for kuckleheads that have 250Amp chargers as a CYA warning. high voltage can certainly damage resistance heaters, and sensitive electronics.
likely a smart charger will only put out alternator voltages... under 15v.
I mean, why put battery posts in the engine compartment if you can't hook anything up to them?
the battery is under the seat in that car, right? and, doesn't the radio and other electronics get reset if you disconnect the negative battery cable?
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2012, 12:50 AM
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The radio needs to have its anti-theft code entered but the memory is non-volatile so you don't use your programmed stations. The other memories (seat position, etc.) are also non-volatile.

Heater-hose heaters can be used but the heater hoses are harder to access than a radiator hose. You should be able to get a radiator hose heater for less than 50 pounds sterling, perhaps much less. The only thing to watch for is the diameter of the radiator hose and the voltage rating of the heater. A plug to fit your mains electricity is even better.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) 201,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) 290,000 miles Wife's car

"Politicians are the same all over the world;
we build bridges where there aren't any rivers."
-- Nikita S. Khrushchev
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  #9  
Old 11-29-2012, 05:05 AM
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Here's a pic of what's installed on the block at the moment.



Looking at the excellent 'How to' mine appears to be a plug?



PeachPartsWiki: Block Heater Wiring
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  #10  
Old 11-29-2012, 07:51 AM
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your pic is a tad to the right of the block heater location. that item in the pic is the block drain. if you look in the smaller pic, the lower right edge of the photo has the same drain.
however, the upper left edge of your pic, has the outline of something in it, and it's NOT a hex fitting, so likely you do not have the heater... tilt the camera up and to the left a bit, and take another shot...
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John ongoing strip party!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!
84 240D 5speed & 84 300 4Speed
67 rs Camaro, Dodge Pickup, parts cars 78 300D, & 93D(no doors?),85 SD, 83 SD, 85 300D, 85Euro 300TD, 87 300TD, 95E320 T
Daily Drivers 82 SD,
87 300TD, 87300TD!!!!,
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  #11  
Old 11-29-2012, 08:37 AM
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Thanks, what about this?

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  #12  
Old 11-29-2012, 11:32 AM
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That's probably it. Be careful unscrewing it. Use a tight 6-point socket, don't risk rounding it off. Once you're able to loosen it, use the other fitting to drain the block of coolant before removing the plug to install a block heater.

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-biodiesel family
1995 E300D (W124) 201,000 miles My car
1996 E300D (W210) 290,000 miles Wife's car

"Politicians are the same all over the world;
we build bridges where there aren't any rivers."
-- Nikita S. Khrushchev
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  #13  
Old 11-30-2012, 02:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
That's probably it. Be careful unscrewing it. Use a tight 6-point socket, don't risk rounding it off. Once you're able to loosen it, use the other fitting to drain the block of coolant before removing the plug to install a block heater.

Jeremy
It might be a non-starter (excuse the pun) MB in their parts catalogue are asking;

"Inchcape shows A6042000096 Pre Heater Parts for 230V line voltage £381.24"

I am surprised as the Scandinavian countries will have these as standard similar to the US.
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  #14  
Old 11-30-2012, 09:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spock505 View Post
It might be a non-starter (excuse the pun) MB in their parts catalogue are asking;

"Inchcape shows A6042000096 Pre Heater Parts for 230V line voltage £381.24"

I am surprised as the Scandinavian countries will have these as standard similar to the US.
My local MB dealer came back with a quote too $681 ahhmmm..
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  #15  
Old 11-30-2012, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air&Road View Post
The reason for the sticker is that they are worried about a voltage spike when connecting a charger that is already powered on or jumper cables. Permanently connecting a small smart charger will probably be okay.
Basically very accurate. If boosting to or from one of the modern cars there is a risk involved as well. Best to just let the other battery absorb enough charge to start it's car from the boost. You can disable electronics otherwise on occassion. Anyways it requires little to remove the negative cable for charging or boosting.

Last edited by barry12345; 11-30-2012 at 07:43 PM.
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