I noticed some of you have knowledge of the diesel’s injector pump.
I need some help. We swapped engines on a 300sd, the ip on the newly installed engine had been setting for some time. The fuel filter was filthy. The ip pump is not pushing diesel out of the pump. I assume it is clogged. So after research this forum we soaked the pump in diesel purge.

I would like to take the delivery valves off and clean them but am worried I will mess up the calibration inside of them. Can these come off without any problems? Is there a specific torque to reset the valves? Is there a way to purge the ip and these valves other then what I have already done? (pumping diesel purge through lines)?
Any help would be appreciated.

Is this a 5 cylinder 300SD or a 6 cylinder 300SD?

Can you circulate Fuel through the Fuel Injecion Pump with the Hand Primer?
When you Crank the Engies does Fuel come out of the Fuel Pressure Relief/Over Flow valve on the Engine side of the Fuel Injection Pump?

If you have an M type Fuel Injection Pump I would leave the Delivery Valves alone because pulling up on the Delivey Valve outer Body can pull the Element Barrel up and out of the alighment slot.
On the MW Fuel Injection Pump do not loosen the 13mm Nuts on each sied of the individual Elements.

If for some reason you pull out a Delivery Valve the Central Valve part only goes into one side of the cylindrical Valve Body.
Each Valve is only fitted to one valve Body so do not mix parts.

With dried Fuel/Rust inside of a Fuel Injection Pump it is possibe for the Element Plungers to go up and not come back down but it would be odd for that to happen to all of them.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

"If you have an M type Fuel Injection Pump I would leave the Delivery Valves alone because pulling up on the Delivey Valve outer Body can pull the Element Barrel up and out of the alighment slot.
On the MW Fuel Injection Pump do not loosen the 13mm Nuts on each sied of the individual Elements."

I have a 5 cylinder. I am not sure but I do believe I have MW IP with the 13 mm nuts on each side 0f the elements. It sounds like you don’t recommend removing the valves whether I have a M or MW type of system.

When I hand pump fuel does come out the over flow. The fuel was dirty coming out even with clean fuel going in and new filters. No fuel comes out of the valves when I hand pump even if I plug the overflow hoses. If I crank the engine a small amount of fuel comes outs out of just two valves.
With just two valves allowing fuel to pass, only these two are getting a bath of the diesel purge solution.

You cannot force Fuel through the Delivery Valves with the pressure from the Hand Primer.
If you really have a MW Pump you do not have to worry about the Element Barrel moving because the Barrel is held in position with those 13mm Nuts you are not supposed to loosen.

You might remove one of the Delivery Valves from one of the elements where no fuel comes out. Note how the Delivery Valve is assembled before removing it and keep the Valve and the outer Cylincer together.
Look down insde and see if when you crank the Engine the Plunger is moving up and down.
If not moving it is stuck.

In the past I have taken a piece of Brass Brazing Rod (1/8" OD) and a small Hammer and gently tapped on the top of the Plunger.
If the Plunger does not move Rotate the Engine a small amount and tap again.
If it does not move nothing is going to help without taking the Pump apart.

If you have an MW Pump the Blue Arrows pont to the Nuts not to touch that are on both sides of each Element.

Attached Thumbnails

 

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

thanks for your help. I looked it up and yes I have MW pump.
I am starting to understand. I did not realize I could remove the valves without removing the two bolts. You have saved me from causing uneeded damage and expense.
So it is safe to unscrew the delivery valves. Will it help to soak these in a solution? I will look and see if the plunger is working. Do I need to torque these valves when reinstalling?

I honestly do not know what chemicals are safe to soak the Pump with. I 30 years ago I worked in a Fuel Injection Shop. When some one brought a IP in with stuck plungers I either tapped the Plunger down to loosen it or took the IP apart.

In your case since the IP is not working I do not see how soaking it can make it worse. I would think that soaking overnight would be enough.
I think the Marvel Mystery Oil is safe because it is kind of oily and it is fairly cheap.

When you loosen that Delivery Valve Holder to get a the Delivery Valves you are supposed to replace the Copper Crush Washers when you re-assemble them and of course tighten them properly.

The instructions for re-tightening would be similar to the instructions that you would follow if you were Drip/Flow timing the Fuel Injection Pump. Except that in your case you would be removing the Delivery Valve Spring and the Valve/Cylinder of the Delivery Valve instead of only the Valve.
There also might be some pics in the DIY.

DIY Repair Links
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/forumdisplay.php?f=82
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/DoItYourSelf

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

After soaking the IP in Lubro-Moly Diesel Purge Injection Cleaner overnight, #3,4 and 5 delivery valves started pumping.
#1 and 2 I had to take off and clean. I hand pumped some of the diesel purge through these open valves to allow any debris to flow out. So, now I have to reassemble to see if they start doing their job.

Signs of Life?

On the ones with the Delivery Valves out are you able to see the plungers move up and down when you rotate the Engine?

Also when you try to start the Engine remove enough of the Intake so that you can put a Board over the Intake an block the Air to smother it incase the Engine Runs away.

That can happen if one of the Plungers Sticks or the Rack Sticks in the Full Fuel Position.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

I had to stick a screwdriver in the hole as I rotated the engine because the diesel purge is very dark colored and I was unable to see anything.
Yes, the screwdriver moved up and down.
So, I reassembled everything and cranked and cranked the engine. Took three times at recharging the battery but finally it started. It took a little bit to get it to run smooth (burn off the diesel purge solution I assume) but it is up and running.

I could have not done it with out you. Thanks for all your help.

Good Job!
However, in case someone else reads this it is not a good idea to stick anything Steel down inside the Element.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel