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  #16  
Old 05-30-2012, 03:02 PM
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Linkage

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
the spring looks like a cover up fix for the sticky accelerator due to the cruise control arm ball sockets shrinking in cold weather. Grease works good like mentioned, if it still sticks its best to renew that little arm.
I think it's a result of M-B switching from metal to plastic ends on the various arms. I'd like to change all of mine but it takes time to get all of the rod lengths correct.

Jeremy

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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #17  
Old 05-30-2012, 03:32 PM
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rods

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Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
I think it's a result of M-B switching from metal to plastic ends on the various arms. I'd like to change all of mine but it takes time to get all of the rod lengths correct.
I replaced the two rods on my 95 and the ends came pre-aligned. They were not adjustable. Took 2 minutes to install.

I also replaced my cat with a magnaflow diesel cat. However, I used OEM muffler and pre-muffler. Custom hotrod shop welded it up. Note there is a MB specific muffler gasket between the exhaust manifold and the magnaflow diesel cat.
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2009 E320 Bluetec 117,000
1995 E300D 306,000 Sold
1996 Ford Taurus LX 130,000 Sold
1985 300TD Still 225,000 Sold
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  #18  
Old 05-30-2012, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connerm View Post
I replaced the two rods on my 95 and the ends came pre-aligned. They were not adjustable. Took 2 minutes to install.

I also replaced my cat with a magnaflow diesel cat. However, I used OEM muffler and pre-muffler. Custom hotrod shop welded it up. Note there is a MB specific muffler gasket between the exhaust manifold and the magnaflow diesel cat.
Have you noticed any increase in sound with the new fresh cat? How about mileage or power?
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  #19  
Old 05-30-2012, 03:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by connerm View Post

I also replaced my cat with a magnaflow diesel cat. However, I used OEM muffler and pre-muffler. Custom hotrod shop welded it up. Note there is a MB specific muffler gasket between the exhaust manifold and the magnaflow diesel cat.
where is the specific MB gasket used, there is only one joint in the exhaust before the primary muffler where a round metal ring is used..

btw did you also Ypipe the headers first then joined the cat or did you find yourself a twin inlet diesel cat? I have the same car with the same magnaflow cat and original exhaust mufflers but have got a noise issue - more of header tick issue.
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  #20  
Old 05-30-2012, 03:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
I think it's a result of M-B switching from metal to plastic ends on the various arms. I'd like to change all of mine but it takes time to get all of the rod lengths correct.

Jeremy
There are only two rods in this engine accelerator linkage and they are not adjustable. The only adjustable bit of the linkage is the bellcrank type thing that translates sideways movement to downward movement of the fuelling lever.
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1995 E300D - The original humming machine (consumed by Flood 2017)
2000 E320 - The evolution (consumed by flood 2017)
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  #21  
Old 05-30-2012, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by thatguy View Post
Have you noticed any increase in sound with the new fresh cat? How about mileage or power?
No change in sound. No change in mileage - power is better over 65mph. I'll post pics of the custom welding later today.
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2016 Ford Fusion 24,900
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  #22  
Old 05-30-2012, 06:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
Like, "a lot" heavy! I wondered about the extra spring -- the linkage seems to work even without it. I'll clean all of the links and try without the extra spring. Thanks for the suggestion.

Jeremy
Mine was ok in the summer months but as soon as winter approached it would begin to stick. It wasn't a huge issue when it stuck, but would hold the revs up around 1200 and occasionally give me a scare when at the lights as the car wanted to drive forward. And a bit of extra stress on the torque converter.
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  #23  
Old 06-01-2012, 11:08 PM
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Too many springs!

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Originally Posted by benedict View Post
Jeremy,

Is your accelerator pedal a bit on the heavy side?

Just noticed you have an extra spring added ontop of the accelerator cable linkage. If you grease up the ball joint sockets on the link going between the IP and your cruise control, you can probably do away with the extra [ return] spring. Need to take crossover pipe off: FSM recommends transmission fluid as lube but I've had no success with that so I used a waterproof Teflon grease.
I removed the "extra" spring as well as the link from the accelerator across to the pressure control flap. Much lighter accelerator feel and no problems returning to idle. Thanks for the suggestion.






Jeremy
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #24  
Old 06-01-2012, 11:10 PM
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So what's the length of yours?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zulfiqar View Post
There are only two rods in this engine accelerator linkage and they are not adjustable. The only adjustable bit of the linkage is the bellcrank type thing that translates sideways movement to downward movement of the fuelling lever.
True, I meant finding metal-ended rods from older Benzes that are coincidentally the same length as the ones in the E300D. May take some time!

Jeremy
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #25  
Old 07-04-2012, 01:07 AM
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Metal rods

In the weeks since I removed the "extra" spring I have noticed just a tiny tendency for the accelerator to not return all the way to "zero." Not enough to be a problem and usually only when the engine is still cold. I still wanted to do something about it.

Today I finally got the plastic-ended rods replaced with all-metal ones. First I scavenged a handful of metal rods from OM603 and OM617 engines in the local auto cemetery. After cleaning them up and removing the heads and lock nuts from the rods, I removed the accelerator and cruise control links from my engine (both of them filthy, of course).

The short one (cruise) was easy to duplicate with metal parts but none of the rods in my collection were long enough to replace the link from the top of the manifold down to the IP. I ended up re-tapping an SAE-threaded spacer to 5x0.8 mm metric and used it to join two short rods to make a structure long enough to replace the factory link.

The use of ATF and various oils and greases to lubricate the ball ends has provoked almost as much discussion as the various "oil threads" that litter this forum. As an experiment, I used sunroof grease. It's supposed to be resistant to water and to not attract dirt. Worth a try.

Jeremy
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #26  
Old 07-04-2012, 04:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy5848 View Post
In the weeks since I removed the "extra" spring I have noticed just a tiny tendency for the accelerator to not return all the way to "zero." Not enough to be a problem and usually only when the engine is still cold. I still wanted to do something about it.

Today I finally got the plastic-ended rods replaced with all-metal ones. First I scavenged a handful of metal rods from OM603 and OM617 engines in the local auto cemetery. After cleaning them up and removing the heads and lock nuts from the rods, I removed the accelerator and cruise control links from my engine (both of them filthy, of course).

The short one (cruise) was easy to duplicate with metal parts but none of the rods in my collection were long enough to replace the link from the top of the manifold down to the IP. I ended up re-tapping an SAE-threaded spacer to 5x0.8 mm metric and used it to join two short rods to make a structure long enough to replace the factory link.

The use of ATF and various oils and greases to lubricate the ball ends has provoked almost as much discussion as the various "oil threads" that litter this forum. As an experiment, I used sunroof grease. It's supposed to be resistant to water and to not attract dirt. Worth a try.

Jeremy
I think the main culprit is still the one for the cruise but good that you are replacing all with metal. No chance of me getting metal ones from dismantlers over here.

I don't know if it is just the angle of your first photograph but I noticed that your main wiring harness is awfully close to the rear of your motor. Just be careful of all the vibration and that it doesn't begin to sever it.
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  #27  
Old 07-04-2012, 11:25 AM
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Wiring harness?

Quote:
Originally Posted by benedict View Post
I think the main culprit is still the one for the cruise but good that you are replacing all with metal. No chance of me getting metal ones from dismantlers over here.

I don't know if it is just the angle of your first photograph but I noticed that your main wiring harness is awfully close to the rear of your motor. Just be careful of all the vibration and that it doesn't begin to sever it.
Here is the link from the IP to the cruise mechanism in replacement metal above original plastic. I forgot to take a picture of the "long" link but it is the same sort of invention.





I learned the hard way that the two link rods in the OM606NA engine do not come apart -- the plastic ends, unlike earlier versions, do not unscrew from the metal rods. The subcontractor seems to have somehow softened the plastic, inserted the rods, and pressed the plastic back in place around the rod, which has notches so that it sticks firmly in place. This means that you cannot simply unscrew the plastic ends and screw on metal ends; you must find a replacement rod with metal ends that is the same length as the original. The plastic-headed rod is half the weight of the all metal one but IMHO this is another example of cheaping out on the part of Mercedes.

Benedict, I am confused by your wiring harness comment. I checked under the hood (bonnet) this morning and there are no wiring cables near the rear of the motor.

Jeremy
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #28  
Old 07-04-2012, 05:53 PM
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Wiring harness

Jeremy,

It might just be the angle of the picture..but thought better to mention it just in case.

The harness I'm referring to is the main black cable located just to the left of your oil filter housing - So, if your standing at the front of the car looking into the engine bay, that black cable at the back of the valve cover: it runs into the foam covered firewall.
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  #29  
Old 07-04-2012, 11:45 PM
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Cable

Quote:
Originally Posted by benedict View Post
Jeremy,

It might just be the angle of the picture..but thought better to mention it just in case.

The harness I'm referring to is the main black cable located just to the left of your oil filter housing - So, if your standing at the front of the car looking into the engine bay, that black cable at the back of the valve cover: it runs into the foam covered firewall.
As it turns out, you're right. That cable was replaced by the PO, due to the disintegration of the old cable -- the "environmental" insulation problem that plagued Mercedes for a number of years in the late '80s and '90s. There is an anchor attached to the oil filter housing; the cable is supposed to be attached to it but was not, so the cable was indeed very close to rubbing on the engine. I have secured the cable. Thanks for catching that potential problem.

Jeremy
__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #30  
Old 08-26-2012, 02:04 PM
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Followup

Six weeks ago I removed the "extra" throttle spring and the link rod to the pressure control flap and replaced both plastic-ended accelerator link rods with all-metal rods. Since then, the accelerator response is much lighter on the foot and the linkage returns the engine to idle with no hint of sticking. Therefore, this would seem to be a real improvement.

Jeremy

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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