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-   -   Note on clutch bleeding (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/319093-note-clutch-bleeding.html)

Stevo 06-01-2012 10:15 AM
Note on clutch bleeding
 
I finally got a good squirt can and bleeding was done in less than five minutes. I had help so was able to watch the bake fluid reservoir and when the bubbles stopped, a few more pumps, close the bleeder, DONE. We had swapped a tranny in this Euro 300D for a friend. Took us seven hours which is about twice the time it would have taken on a 240:rolleyes:

Anyway, Get a good squirt can and your bleeding troubles will be over:P

rs899 06-01-2012 10:31 AM
^^ Ha. You guarantee it? What's a "good" squirt can, anyway. I think I have a couple, but haven't others tried and failed this way , too?

I just think there are some undiscovered hydraulic gods that need to be satiated with a virgin or two.

Air&Road 06-01-2012 11:21 AM
On the 123 cars, I guess due to the arrangement of the lines, if you will just quickly bleed it with the two person method and let it set overnight, you'll be good to go. The remaining bubbles work their way to the reservoir as long as the reservoir level was not allowed to go below the clutch nipple in the process.

Stevo 06-01-2012 01:45 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by rs899 (Post 2947923)
^^ Ha. You guarantee it? What's a "good" squirt can, anyway. I think I have a couple, but haven't others tried and failed this way , too?

I just think there are some undiscovered hydraulic gods that need to be satiated with a virgin or two.
I can guarantee its almost idiot proof:D If the system is in good working order and your squirt can is up to it, I guarantee it took us less than five minutes. The squirt can I got is just a small common type that the hose fits on that works on the bleed nipple also. I had the brake slave to clutch slave method pretty well down but it involved tiny hose clamps, much brake pumping, and to many other pit falls to mention:eek: I think the secret is a good squirt can.

Air&Road 06-01-2012 02:43 PM
They used to call that type of squirt can the "Plews" type. I have a very old stainless steel one that I know would work well for your purpose. It needs the handle and the grease nipple looking end on the spout. You don't want to try it with the bottom flexing type can.

Stevo 06-01-2012 03:24 PM
No, I think you need more than the bottom flexing type, mine has a trigger and could squirt oil across the shop, Although I dont want to turn this into a squirting contest:D

This is better than when I discovered the benefits of the pressure brake bleeder and the impact wrench.:P

woodrat 06-01-2012 03:37 PM
What exactly do you mean by "squirt can" and how are you using it? I put new clutch cylinders in my 240D a while back, and the bleeding only seems to last about a month before there's air in there again and I have to do it all over again. I've bled the clutch three or four times now since the initial bleeding after the new cylinders. Can't see any leaks, don't seem to be losing any fluid anywhere, but it will NOT stay bled for long.

Stevo 06-01-2012 04:07 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodrat (Post 2948141)
What exactly do you mean by "squirt can" and how are you using it? I put new clutch cylinders in my 240D a while back, and the bleeding only seems to last about a month before there's air in there again and I have to do it all over again. I've bled the clutch three or four times now since the initial bleeding after the new cylinders. Can't see any leaks, don't seem to be losing any fluid anywhere, but it will NOT stay bled for long.
A squirt can , hand held with a trigger and 6 or so inch long skinny spout with brass fitting at the end, used to oil moving parts. Sorry I dont have a pic. Get clear plastic hose at Ace Hardware that fits over the end and also fits the bleed nipple. If you have the old slave take it when getting the hose. To use it simply fit the hose over the clutch slave bleed nipple, open it and pump brake fluid up till theres no more bubbles. Be careful not to over flow the reservoir, give it a few more pumps with the squirt can and close the bleed nipple. See if she stays bled, if not I dont know what could be wrong, I've never ran into that problem of only staying bled for such a short time. How did you bleed your system?

Air&Road 06-01-2012 06:01 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodrat (Post 2948141)
What exactly do you mean by "squirt can" and how are you using it? I put new clutch cylinders in my 240D a while back, and the bleeding only seems to last about a month before there's air in there again and I have to do it all over again. I've bled the clutch three or four times now since the initial bleeding after the new cylinders. Can't see any leaks, don't seem to be losing any fluid anywhere, but it will NOT stay bled for long.

If it goes that long then you have a leak somewhere.

woodrat 06-01-2012 08:47 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible (Post 2948248)
If it goes that long then you have a leak somewhere.
Weird. That was my original thought, but the fluid level doesn't seem to drop, and I can't see any leakage anywhere.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo (Post 2948159)
A squirt can , hand held with a trigger and 6 or so inch long skinny spout with brass fitting at the end, used to oil moving parts. Sorry I dont have a pic. Get clear plastic hose at Ace Hardware that fits over the end and also fits the bleed nipple. If you have the old slave take it when getting the hose. To use it simply fit the hose over the clutch slave bleed nipple, open it and pump brake fluid up till theres no more bubbles. Be careful not to over flow the reservoir, give it a few more pumps with the squirt can and close the bleed nipple. See if she stays bled, if not I dont know what could be wrong, I've never ran into that problem of only staying bled for such a short time. How did you bleed your system?
That sounds better than what I've been doing, which is what was recommended to me here last summer when I first replaced the MC. I have a long piece of injector return line, and hose clamps, and I connect the bleeder on the right front caliper to the bleeder on the slave cylinder, open the both up, and pump the brakes a bunch of times. I close the bleeders as my helper is pushing the pedal down, then check to see if the clutch is better. It usually tightens up pretty quickly, but won't stay. I actually don't know how quickly it loses it, because my wife drives this car lately, and she is notorious for not noticing these things until they are nearly un-usable.

I just did it again today, and I think if it doesn't stay this time, I'm taking the whole system apart again, and going through it and seeing if there is a small leak somewhere that I haven't seen yet.

Air&Road 06-01-2012 10:54 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodrat (Post 2948333)
Weird. That was my original thought, but the fluid level doesn't seem to drop, and I can't see any leakage anywhere.




That sounds better than what I've been doing, which is what was recommended to me here last summer when I first replaced the MC. I have a long piece of injector return line, and hose clamps, and I connect the bleeder on the right front caliper to the bleeder on the slave cylinder, open the both up, and pump the brakes a bunch of times. I close the bleeders as my helper is pushing the pedal down, then check to see if the clutch is better. It usually tightens up pretty quickly, but won't stay. I actually don't know how quickly it loses it, because my wife drives this car lately, and she is notorious for not noticing these things until they are nearly un-usable.

I just did it again today, and I think if it doesn't stay this time, I'm taking the whole system apart again, and going through it and seeing if there is a small leak somewhere that I haven't seen yet.

Using the brakes to bleed the clutch was the standard procedure on big trucks back in the seventies.

Stevo 06-01-2012 11:58 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodrat (Post 2948333)
Weird. That was my original thought, but the fluid level doesn't seem to drop, and I can't see any leakage anywhere.




That sounds better than what I've been doing, which is what was recommended to me here last summer when I first replaced the MC. I have a long piece of injector return line, and hose clamps, and I connect the bleeder on the right front caliper to the bleeder on the slave cylinder, open the both up, and pump the brakes a bunch of times. I close the bleeders as my helper is pushing the pedal down, then check to see if the clutch is better. It usually tightens up pretty quickly, but won't stay. I actually don't know how quickly it loses it, because my wife drives this car lately, and she is notorious for not noticing these things until they are nearly un-usable.

I just did it again today, and I think if it doesn't stay this time, I'm taking the whole system apart again, and going through it and seeing if there is a small leak somewhere that I haven't seen yet.
When using the brake slave you just pump like mad, NO opening and closing the bleeder, just pumping then close the bleeders. When you did it today you did the closing and opening? If so try it by just pumping. I do it from out side the driver side door using my hand on the clutch pedal. Pump like crazy, close the bleeders then try the pedal, if need be pump more, but NO opening and closing. Dont give up yet.

Stevo 06-02-2012 05:39 PM
Quote:
Originally Posted by LarryBible (Post 2948110)
They used to call that type of squirt can the "Plews" type. I have a very old stainless steel one that I know would work well for your purpose. It needs the handle and the grease nipple looking end on the spout. You don't want to try it with the bottom flexing type can.
Vintage - Oil Can - Plews Oil from chubbycherub on Ruby Lane

I had never heard that term "Plews" but I found plenty on ebay and thats what I have, never realized it was Vintage' :)

Stevo 03-13-2013 03:04 PM
2 Attachment(s)
I included a pic of my set up for bleeding also the two different push rod lengths of a slave.

Stevo 02-09-2015 09:06 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo (Post 3113842)
I included a pic of my set up for bleeding also the two different push rod lengths of a slave.
Opps...The push rods pictured above are for the master cylinder not the slave:o


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