I fixed the sticky rack today, car runs strong now. I took the pump top off again and finally got it free'd it up and added oil. I guess it just needed to be driven a bit.

I took the car on its first real test drive 45 miles to work today and it feels good on the high way. I did have a problem however: The car was running warm on the highway, max temp just over 100C with cap loose. As i mentioned I have flushed the cooling system several times but it is still a bit rusty. I think my rad may be restricted. Also, I took out the t stat for flushing and now realize this may cause it to run warm due to some coolant flow possibly bypassing rad. Tomorrow I will reinstall T stat and flush it again, worst case i give it a new Radiator.

So when it got warm on the highway i was running straight water and some flush/anti corrosion additive. This caused it to start to boil just over 100C at top of hill with cap loose. I lost a little bit of coolant so i stopped at a store and filled up some jugs to bring with me. When i shifted into reverse the reverse rod came off! I don't know how/why it happenened, must not have had the clip on right. I had to squeeze under the hot car and remove the rod and shift it out of reverse. Fortunately i was able to find a parking spot at work I can pull out from forward, I almost forgot when i pulled in.

So minus a couple last minute cluster f's, car is running well. The 2:88 Rear end is nice with this set up since I primarilly need the car for highway travel. Its fine around town too. I see the minor buzz when lugging 3rd/4th, but it is very minor and i do not mind it. The DS work never did get balanced and it is fine. I really happy i don't have any major engine balance issue's, would not have time to tear it all apart again.

Sits pretty nice with 1 coil cut on F springs, definitely higher then it was with the auto and all the AC stuff.

I hope to drive this car another 100+K, hopefully the SLS holds up, I like the SLS system in these cars and do not want to deal with changing it out for regular springs. I replaced the accumulators and flush the system occasionally, so far it has been working very well. The lines over the rear subframe do not look great though and the pressure hose from pump should be replaced (it is spliced together now with hyd fittings).

Thanks for the help/advice. This forum is a valuable resource, incredible knowledge here.

So The to do list is getting shorter:

Steering box

Water/meth inj

Driver seat

Install R sls links

Breather/catch can set up

Fan clutch

Rad (?)

Some pics at first start (alot of unfinished business in pics, has since been tidied up)
















How do I change the name of this thread?

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82 MB 300TD, 87 Audi 4000TQ, 05 Audi A4 avant 1.8T 6spd (Wifes), 63 356C, Samurai VW 1.6TD, 71 NSU 1200C, 71 Toyota Hilux, tractors and junk

You are moving right along with your project.

I like your shop/garage, nice set up, Iam envious. the over head beam, trolly and chain hoist sure make it a lot easier than using a engine hoist.
I see your junior apprentis helping you.

I just pulled the eng out of my 85 300D yesterday, (with help from Gastropodus) and working towards swapping in the 240 FW for the 300 FW, and a few other car/eng projects.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Thanks,

best of luck with your project.

yea, the hoist is handy, a guy up the road made it for me when he saw me swapping an engine years ago when i first moved in here. I did not even know him and he shows up with this I beam and installed it like it was nothing. He is a tough old Irish iron worker, 30 packs in each hand look like 6 packs haha.

Its a small shop but I ain't complaining, a small lift would be nice though.

I flushed the rad out again today, reinstalled T stat, reinstalled the reverse shift rod and made sure the clip was on right, its hard to get up at that one way up in the tunnel. I ended up using an old clip since they are a better design with a locking feature. The ones I bought are different.

Drove car to work today, temp never above 95C pushing it up the hills 75 mph, most of the time was at 85- 90C cruising 75-80. I would like it to stay at 85C max since it is an 80C T stat, but may need a new rad for that.

So now its time to drive the wheels off this thing, going to pack some kids in it for a trip to water park, enough time in the shop for now (I hope)

GL with that swap, if i was starting over I would have bought a 5cyl FW, I think Impex had them listed at like $650. The 240 FW is fine though, very minor buzz when lugging 3rd/4th. I can live with it just fine. I am assuming the buzz is caused by the FW, but it kinda feels like gear chatter too. My Samurai with diesel swap does the same thing.

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82 MB 300TD, 87 Audi 4000TQ, 05 Audi A4 avant 1.8T 6spd (Wifes), 63 356C, Samurai VW 1.6TD, 71 NSU 1200C, 71 Toyota Hilux, tractors and junk

4spd swap/engine swap has been great, been driving this car 500 miles/wk since swap.
I have decided to sell the car, been driving it 8yrs, car is getting ratty and has some needs. The time has come to buy a newer DD so i just picked up an 03 Tdi wagon which i need to have shipped from Iowa.

I'll place an ad for the 300TD in classifieds,

I bet this will not be my last W123, but for now farewell!

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82 MB 300TD, 87 Audi 4000TQ, 05 Audi A4 avant 1.8T 6spd (Wifes), 63 356C, Samurai VW 1.6TD, 71 NSU 1200C, 71 Toyota Hilux, tractors and junk