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Old 06-05-2012, 10:15 AM
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Larry,.. IIRC this was the exact method used to change mine brake fluid.

2 bloke's,.. 1 filling 1 pushing..

w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered
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Old 06-05-2012, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by vstech View Post
you have full power bleeder, and it's connected to the MC, and it's pumping fluid through the driver's rear caliper... but it's full of bubbles?
I'd leave the bleeder open, and keep pumping fluid out until it clears up.
actually, I'd clean all traces of the petroleum jelly off all the calipers, and start at the rear right, and pump it up and flow fluid out until it's a clear stream, then go the the left side, and repeat, then go up front... it doesn't matter which front you do first, as they are independent.
Yep, plenty of bubbles. I can see them in the tubing as it bleeds. The brake fluid is clear, but is dotted with hundreds of millimeter size bubbles. The same with the MC reservoir, the liquid is colloidal. I'm hoping that overnight it will have a chance to separate once again and I can put non-air-filled fluid in or bleed the air out.
I recondition w123/w126/w124 steering boxes! (post #7)

1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 111k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]
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Old 06-05-2012, 12:13 PM
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I never had any success with vacuum bleeding the few times I tried it. Either use Mother Nature (gravity), or pressurize the master cylinder.
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Old 06-05-2012, 08:00 PM
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I don't think that you removed the calipers, but if you did, make sure that the bleeder nipples are at the top. I had an issue where I installed the calipers upside down (bleeders towards the ground.) Needless to say it would not bleed.
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Old 06-06-2012, 03:34 AM
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I'd overhaul that caliper already. Fluid is leaking past the seal. The dust boot on these cars a really good and can contain the fluid without causing an external leak. While you overhaul the caliper, observe if there is any fluid behind the dust boot. And while the caliper is off, check to see if fluid squirts out of the disconnected line when pressure is applied to the pedal. Also, try lightly tapping on the brake pedal. Not enough to pressure the system, just enough to move the piston in the master cylinder past the compensating port. If there is air in the master cylinder, on these old cars air bubbles will float to the top of the reservoir.
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Old 06-06-2012, 04:01 AM
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I too think there is something wrong with that rear caliper but I will say that if you are still in the process of checking it out and trying stuff out you might be interested in trying this tip that I picked up here on the forum (sorry to whoever posted it first it is a good tip!) =>

Over night / over day when you are not working on the car use a clamp / weight to hold the brake pedal in the down position. Air bubbles will eventually make their way up to the master cylinder. It does make a noticeable difference to the brake pedal feel...

...however if the caliper is letting air into the system...
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

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