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  #1  
Old 06-05-2012, 10:03 AM
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W115 Starts in Drive. Normal?

Normally, that would be a big, fat "no!". But given the ability to push/tow start these old automatic Benzes I have to ask.

It wasn't referenced in the owner's manual but I discovered by accident that mine does, indeed, start in gear.

$150+ for a new one if mine's busted or has been bypassed.

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1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.

Last edited by bipolardave; 06-05-2012 at 10:17 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-05-2012, 12:49 PM
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That'll still be a no - your neutral safety starter switch thing should stop the starter from turning unless someone has hot wired it for you.

The being able to tow start these cars is all about the secondary pump that is fitted to these transmissions which lots of other automatic transmissions don't have. The secondary pump runs off a cam system on the output shaft (of the transmission) and is therefore always connected to the rear wheels - turn the rear wheels to build up enough pressure => brake bands and clutches engage according to position of gear selector - you then have a chance of cranking the engine over via the fluid coupling / torque converter.
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #3  
Old 06-05-2012, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Army View Post
That'll still be a no - your neutral safety starter switch thing should stop the starter from turning unless someone has hot wired it for you.

The being able to tow start these cars is all about the secondary pump that is fitted to these transmissions which lots of other automatic transmissions don't have. The secondary pump runs off a cam system on the output shaft (of the transmission) and is therefore always connected to the rear wheels - turn the rear wheels to build up enough pressure => brake bands and clutches engage according to position of gear selector - you then have a chance of cranking the engine over via the fluid coupling / torque converter.

Thanks for the explanation. Good thing our man Phil is able to do a lot better than $150 (~$83ish from Peach Parts).

My only concern now is to figure out what needs undone and hope they didn't butcher the wiring harness in the process.
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1974 240D "Boldie" 170K.- New timing chain/freshly rebuilt IP/replaced valve seals/injectors/upgraded stereo/new Bilsteins with Yokohamas/fresh paint and rocker panels plus lots of welds.
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  #4  
Old 06-05-2012, 01:25 PM
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Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Somewhere in the Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bipolardave View Post
Thanks for the explanation. Good thing our man Phil is able to do a lot better than $150 (~$83ish from Peach Parts).

My only concern now is to figure out what needs undone and hope they didn't butcher the wiring harness in the process.
I would check that first. If it still starts with the connection removed on the transmission I'd be highly suspicious of a custom wiring job...

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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