What's a 85 300D turbo in exc condition worth? - Page 5 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

vstech · #61 06-16-2012, 07:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Army

I'm no great expert on the how VINs are "built" but I would have expected that you would have had WDB123 something something something wouldn't you?

I thought it always started with type number (123 / 124 / 126 / 107) then chassis number (also a set of three numbers) then the chassis number...

Is this the number actually stamped into the firewall (back of the engine bay)?

nope, only the preturbo 123's had wdb123xxblah. after the turbo went in, it went to ab3

and the number stamped on the firewall is NOT a vin. it's an assembly number, and only a few of the numbers will coincide with the vin.

funola · #62 06-18-2012, 12:56 AM

Drove the car home today. Doesn't look like the spare with Continental tire has ever been mounted. it's 6 x 14, not 6.5.
Jack looks like it's never been used.

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funola · #63 06-18-2012, 01:05 AM

Tool kit also look like it's never been used. Strangely it includes a spark plug wrench???

Nice battery charger! Has a charge timer.

ROLLGUY · #64 06-18-2012, 01:14 AM

You definitely scored on this one. We still would like to know how bad you stole it!

Stretch · #65 06-18-2012, 03:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

nope, only the preturbo 123's had wdb123xxblah. after the turbo went in, it went to ab3

and the number stamped on the firewall is NOT a vin. it's an assembly number, and only a few of the numbers will coincide with the vin.

Oh OK - thanks John. Consider your post bookmarked - I've learnt something new again!

Stretch · #66 06-18-2012, 03:20 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Come to think of it, the 240D I had and my 83 300D has the same VIN format and I was never able to get them to work on the russian VIN site in previous attemps. Are there more than one VIN on a Mercedes?

Come to think of it funola don't you have grown up EPC?

I'm stuck here in Europe with the Russian supplied EPC because I don't want to pay for the service! But with a US postal address and a US credit card you can get EPC for free right?

Doesn't that tell you all about the car?

funola · #67 06-18-2012, 10:26 AM

The number behind the valve cover is the chassis number, not the VIN. Which number is the one that's needed in the Russian VIN site? I tried both the VIN and chassis number from my 83 300DT but neither one works. I will try the chassis number from my 85 next and see if that works (already tried the VIN which didn't work).

I subscribed to the EPC years ago but could never get it to work either. I will try again.

funola · #68 06-18-2012, 10:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROLLGUY

You definitely scored on this one. We still would like to know how bad you stole it!

I don't want to state the figure on the forum. I will pm you. Anyone else wants to know, send me a pm.

Stretch · #69 06-18-2012, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I don't want to state the figure on the forum. I will pm you. Anyone else wants to know, send me a pm.

You'd better empty that PM box - I'll be amongst the nosy parkers!

vstech · #70 06-18-2012, 12:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

I don't want to state the figure on the forum. I will pm you. Anyone else wants to know, send me a pm.

ok... now I'm curious what you paid for it, and why you don't wanna put the value out there for all to see... I'm guessing you really stole it!

barry123400 · #71 06-18-2012, 01:59 PM

I assume it was not hard to start it but how did you disable the steering lock to steal it? Yes drop me a pm on what you really paid. I too am currious. I will also take the secret to the grave with me as well.

edge · #72 06-18-2012, 02:02 PM

You've done well, funola. You probably paid 2K. You stole it, it should trade 3-4K, IMO. In the northeast, you get rusty crap for 2K.

funola · #73 06-18-2012, 11:21 PM

Adjusted valves. They weren't too far off. Inlets ranged from 0.006 to 0.008.
Exhausts ranged from 0.013 to 0.017. They were adjusted to 0.004 and 0.014.

With the marks lined up on the cam, the pointer on the harmonic balancer was at 0 TDC. Does that mean no chain stretch?

Fixed the oil leak by moving these 2 wires that were crimped under the valve cover.

Stretch · #74 06-19-2012, 03:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by funola

Adjusted valves. They weren't too far off. Inlets ranged from 0.006 to 0.008.
Exhausts ranged from 0.013 to 0.017. They were adjusted to 0.004 and 0.014.

With the marks lined up on the cam, the pointer on the harmonic balancer was at 0 TDC. Does that mean no chain stretch?

Fixed the oil leak by moving these 2 wires that were crimped under the valve cover.

All I can say about the wires is that that looks like carelessness to me. I think somone just whacked the valve cover back on and missed the two wires underneath.

What worries me though is that you'd really have to tighten the cover down to crimp the wires - probably over torquing the nuts on the cover. So check for more damage and replace the cover seal. I'd also replace the wires...

...as for the timing chain elongation =>

On a used chain (I guess you don't have a bill for a new timing chain with the documentation you got with the car?) you should ideally do ye olde 2mm test

PeachPartsWiki: Measuring Timing Chain Stretch

(Better still chapter 05-215 in the FSM)

But before doing that I'd remove the bolt on the camshaft cog and see if there is a woodruff key already in there.

As a guide for a used chain the elongation should be about 2 degrees after about 20,000 km (about 12,500 miles) according to the FSM.

funola · #75 06-19-2012, 10:55 AM

Army, with 157k on the clock, with regular oil changes, do you think I need to pull the cam sprocket and look for a woodruff key?

Here's a pic of the balancer timing when the cam sprocket marks are aligned. I think that is the 2 degree mark and not zero as I said earlier. Please verify.