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  #16  
Old 06-22-2012, 09:41 AM
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Ok I have the problem figured out I think.

Can someone tell me if I understand the system correctly…..

Ok the pressure switch boost air pipe trigger switch in picture number 20.

When boost hits 15 PSI the switch grounds the switch over valve picture # 21

This in turn cuts the pressure to the ALDA picture # 14 and stops sending extra fuel to the pump.
If this is all correct, I have a bad pressure switch boost air pipe trigger switch in picture number 20 because when engine is shut off it is still grounded at the post….


Last edited by yotadiesel; 06-22-2012 at 10:46 AM.
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  #17  
Old 06-22-2012, 10:18 AM
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I pulled all that crap off and have a manual waste gate regulator. No ALDA, no cutout solenoid, no nothing but a boost gauge. Disabled EGR and ARV also. Its a new car and lots more power. Been driving it that way for 2 years now and keep falling in love with it all over again every time I drive it.
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  #18  
Old 06-22-2012, 01:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yotadiesel View Post
Ok I have the problem figured out I think.

Can someone tell me if I understand the system correctly…..

Ok the pressure switch boost air pipe trigger switch in picture number 20.

When boost hits 15 PSI the switch grounds the switch over valve picture # 21

This in turn cuts the pressure to the ALDA picture # 14 and stops sending extra fuel to the pump.
If this is all correct, I have a bad pressure switch boost air pipe trigger switch in picture number 20 because when engine is shut off it is still grounded at the post….
Oh also the 2 wires coming from the b terminal are ground triggers. One to the pressure switch boost air and the other to the transmission. ?????
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  #19  
Old 06-22-2012, 05:13 PM
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Answer

Quote:
Originally Posted by yotadiesel View Post
I would like to keep it close to stock,
As for boost before I took off the electric plug at the switch over valve I was at 5-7 PS I, after I unhooked the switch over valve I am at 10-11 PS I boost.
And my valve wrenches will be here tomorrow.
IMO, for your application keeping it stock is not a wise decision.

A modern boost control is superior to 30+ year old technology and used components.

The MB system (if it is working correctly) should not activate below 11.9 PSI.
Today, many owners are lucky to get 5 - 7 PSI with the over boost protection bypassed.

FYI: Any leak at the exhaust/intake and/or turbo flange gasket wastes power = degrades performance.
Exhaust leak between engine and Turbo OM617

The MB OM617 over boost protection system was designed in the early/mid 1970's, while they developed the W116 300SD.


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  #20  
Old 06-22-2012, 06:53 PM
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just one more thought on over boost protection, is it really needed?

I don;t think so, the turbo will have a hard time getting much past 12 psi with the factory settings in the ip. I have also heard that at about 40 psi, and of course enough fuel to push it that far, as well as a turbo that can do it, is about where rods start bending, so you are well safe from that.
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  #21  
Old 07-08-2012, 10:20 AM
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I replaced the over boost switch on the intake all is good now. I can cruse at 80-85 ho problem.
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  #22  
Old 07-08-2012, 02:39 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yotadiesel View Post
I replaced the over boost switch on the intake all is good now. I can cruse at 80-85 ho problem.
The five speed transmision is working out pretty well ratio wise it seems. No matter whose it is.
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  #23  
Old 07-08-2012, 03:53 PM
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I think 4.88 vrs the 4.10 stock gears with the 33" tires I have on now would be better. But I only have the 33" tires on in the sumer. And back to stock size for plowing snow in the winter. 225/75/15.
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  #24  
Old 07-30-2012, 03:16 PM
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Well I did so good for the first 200-250 miles but I could not drive like and old man anymore.
This last tank 26.6 MPG keep in mind I have 33x14.5x15 trusx tires and stock 4.10s

I am curious at what I will get with my plowing tires 234/75/15

The first half tank via the fuel gauge was 240. Before it hit the half tank mark
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  #25  
Old 07-30-2012, 04:00 PM
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that's quite tall; i think the most common of the MB diffs is 3.07.

PS - i guess the huge tires make up the difference?

Last edited by bricktron; 07-30-2012 at 04:01 PM. Reason: hmm
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  #26  
Old 07-31-2012, 02:28 PM
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The first 617.950 engines had less power then the later ones.
If you have one of this early engines you could gain 10 HP by changing the camshaft.
You also need the cam towers, rocker arms and valve springs from the later model.
The # on the back of the old cam is 00 or 01.
The newer cams are 05 or 11.

X2 on removing the ALDA.
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