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#31
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The part number is on the relay itself. You may be able to pick it up on ebay.
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85 300CD Signal Red/Tan sold 83 300D Manganese Brown 109K 97 E420 Midnight Blue 197K sold 98 BMW 328i Vert White 100K, sold 95 BMW 525i White 125K, sold 93 BMW 525iT Red 193K, sold 95 E320 Green Wagon 125K, sold 94 E320 White 127K, sold 85 300SD 156K Grey (Annie), sold 84 300D Lapis Blue 170K (Judy), sold 99 ML 320 Black (lease), 1998 C230 White (lease) 00 Honda S2000 Red (lease) 86 Mercedes 300E (sold) 84 Porsche 911 Red (sold), 1965 Porsche 911 White (sold) |
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#33
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Just got the tach working, made a small jumper from # 30 to #87 in the relay plug. So even though the fuse is good the relay is not. The interesting thing is after doing that, I can plug the relay back in and I have the tach again. Any thoughts on this? Intermintant relay connection?
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Lots of diesel W126s in the past Current: 1991 Toyota 4Runner with an OM603 |
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#36
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Last edited by edge; 06-25-2012 at 10:07 PM. |
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Guys. Before I posted my tach problem I hit the relay socket and relay pins with contact cleaner and a small brass brush. Thought I hit the basics before calling in all you experts I must not have done as good of job as I thought.
Thanks again to everyone for all the help and insight. EDGE. As far as the jumper. Iv installed a lot of relays in trucks and cars so I have a good understanding how they work, but, to make sure, as this is my first MB, with the key off I found one pin with 12v ( hot all the time) this handles the load. I also found one pin to ground, turn the key on and the third pin had 12v (this is pulling in the small coil inside the relay and making the switch from the " hot all the time pin to the last pin which is the load) so, I just jumped the hot all the time to the load and Bingo. If you search the web a little I'm sure you'll find a better example with pictures. I'm on my phone so I'm limited. This might help, if your standing next to the drivers fender and you pull the relay the pins to jump are the two closest to the passenger fender. |
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