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Gave some love to the 300D yesterday
So, I don't post on here too much because a search yields all the info I could ask for!
I thought I would share some work I did on the 300D. My girlfriend primarily daily drives it, almost 500 miles a week. The car has been shifting harsh ever since we got it, which I have been scratching my head with for a while. The other issue that it was having was low power on the freeway and a rough idle. When trying to diagnose the shifting problem, I found the vacuum switch levers were both completely broken off! https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-v...0/IMG_4132.JPG Thankfully I was able to just get the levers themselves off Fastlane, so I replaced those first. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-Y...0/IMG_4188.JPG old vs new: https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-a...0/IMG_4189.JPG installed: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-E...0/IMG_4192.JPG I installed them back on the car, cleaned up all the old grease off the cam wheel and test drove. Shifts like butter now! Shift timing was obviously improved as well, since the vacuum switches where essentially useless without good levers. Total cost, under $5. Best $5 I've ever spent, on ANY car I've ever had. One of the reasons we got the car so cheap is because of the harsh shifting... if only the PO did this repair. Apparently he had a bunch of shops trying to diagnose the problem. Its nice what a little research will do for you! Next up was the low power issue. It was time for fuel filters so I thought I would start there. No record of a diesel injection service so right now was the best time for a diesel purge. Also found the primper pump was seeping diesel so I ordered up a new style pump. Old primer pump: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-S...2/IMG_4195.JPG old vs new: https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Q...2/IMG_4196.JPG Diesel Purge (local Napa actually had it for 8.00/can) https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E...0/IMG_4201.JPG my sobe setup: https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-A...0/IMG_4202.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...0/IMG_4203.JPG running: https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Y...0/IMG_4205.JPG Makes you really appreciate how much these cars sip diesel. The two bottles took almost an hour to burn... even at different RPMs (under load, WOT, idle, etc). I was a little leery of this procedure since I've been around TDI's for a while and never seen it done. But it is all over the web and thought it couldn't hurt. Car didn't smoke at all but halfway through the first can I could already tell it was running smoother. By the time it was done it was hardly shaking at all. Got it hooked back up, put on new spin on and inline filters and took her around town. Runs much better! Throttle response is back, quick start up, and most importantly, no loss of power on the freeway. Cost: less than $30. Again, money WELL spent. This will hold the car over til I do Bosio nozzles. I also checked out the ALDA system, which was surprisingly clean as a whistle, no soot whatsoever. Thought I would share what less than $50 can do to make these cars feel new again. Now for a valve adjustment, anyone willing to loan me some wrenches? :) Or will my regular 14s work? https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-x...0/IMG_2161.JPG |
Regular 14MM wrenches will work but its super easy to get a pair of cheap Harbor Freight wrenches and bend them yourself.
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Regular wrenches work just fine. 79mercy did my valve adjustment last week and he had no issues with straight wrenches. He said he actually wpreferred them.
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Thanks for posting the pictures! What a beautiful car.
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Except for being a source of a Valve leak the little Valves with the worn levers have nothing to do with the Transmission itself. The Valves are to control the EGR.
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On my bro in Laws 82 240D, one is for the EGR and the other is for the transmission to shift.
Here is the part #. for the lever. OES GENUINE Vacuum Valve Lever 3/2 Way,W0133-1640593 - PeachParts TIP, those are some good pictures and write up. Charlie |
Diesel Purge works wonders on a diesel engine.. We use those in our diesels for a very longtime already. Great product. Everyone should do it on their diesels..
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woops, double post.
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Thanks guys. Wasn't sure if anyone would read my post or not, but figured everyone likes pics ;)
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Vacuum (or leaks) affect transmission? Nah....(it's only 49 pages long, plenty of opinion, fact, data, anecdotes) http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/158216-its-critical-how-you-set-your-transmissions-vacuum-system-your-diesel-mbz.html |
I meant these particular vacuum switches. I've made the rounds through that thread many times.
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I think this is consistent with diesel911, but maybe phrased differently: the levers/valves don't control shifting, but if they're leaky for whatever reason, they can affect shifting. Regardless, nice post, nice pics. Your engine bay looks clean and sweet. Is that an oil pressure line disconnected near the Sobe bottle? Just asking... |
Side Note: I was under the impression, from my reading on this forum, that the primer pump on the OM617.952 had to be replaced with the original style pump. True?!
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good tip on the levers, i'm going to buy myself a pair and replace them. cheap five minute job to improve shifting maybe
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One of the vac micro-switches applies vac to the VCV.
No vac to the vcv, you'll have harsh shifts.... |
Now I'm confused!
Alastair:
I was under the impression that all of the 'stuff' under the 'black box' on top of the valve cover could be deleted if one got rid of the egr and its related components. I have removed the egr completely, as well as the stuff under the black box and am in the process of seeing what else can be removed that is egr related, mostly to narrow down points of failure for the vacuum system. Are you saying I need one/both of those 'micro switches' as you call them if I want to help remedy my harsh shifting? It doesn't seem that what you're saying can be true, given that I have indeed eliminated all those items and, with the help of a Mighty Vac hooked directly to the AT Modulator and providing it with 15-20 in HG as I drove, it shifted fantastically like it never has before. Please advise! Thank you. |
I'm sure its different on each motor (240D, 300D, 300D turbo, California emmision, etc) ? This is the first MB diesel I've owned so I'm in no way an expert.
If I ever get the car back from my girlfriend I will put this issue to bed (for this particular engine, anyway). Car is still shifting great. |
Had some time to devote to the benz today after getting some parts ordered up.
Finally got around to doing the valve adjustment! I had been going back and forth about making my own wrenches but I just didn't have the time or tools to make a set. A few of you in this thread (thank you BTW) said it was possible to do it without the bent wrenches. Well, you were completely right. Being the cheap bastard I am, I decided to give it a go once the gasket came in. I had no problems with the standard wrenches, but can see where the proper wrenches would make it easier. I lucked out and actually had a thin 14mm wrench for some VW stuff, which worked great on the bottom nut. I used dieselgiant's idea for a check off sheet, which was really helpful. On the very last intake valve, the valve itself must have been spinning. I couldn't get it to release from the nut. I ended up getting some PB blaster on it and using a pair of vice grips to work the big valve spring retainer nut (or whatever its called) back and forth, then hold it while I slowly turned the adjuster nut. This is when the bent wrenches would have really been nice, along with the third wrench to hold the big valve spring retainer nut. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-j...0/IMG_4795.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-M...0/IMG_4796.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-Q...0/IMG_4797.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-O...0/IMG_4799.JPG All the valves but one intake where tight. I'm ashamed I waited this long to do the job. But wow, what a difference it made. As soon as I started it up I could hear a difference. Much faster start, smoother idle, and much better throttle response. I took it down the road after warming it up and took her through the gears. It really was a slug before. Also did the monovalve repair kit since the heater was only working at idle. I went with the MTC one ($15 from peachparts) even though I've read people haven't had much luck with them. Its working now, but we will see how long it lasts. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-7...0/IMG_4800.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-I...2/IMG_4802.JPG old vs new https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7...0/IMG_4803.JPG old vs new, note the cheap, wrinkled seal on the new MTC part. And torn seal on the old. https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-m...0/IMG_4805.JPG https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-o...2/IMG_4806.JPG https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-U...2/IMG_4807.JPG Also did the following: -replaced the air filter -changed the oil and filter -wiper inserts -replaced the instrument cluster bulbs (Osram 3W) -attempted to replace the left side gauge pod (wrong parts) -cleaned the corroded and inoperative rheostat (works now) -rust encapsulated some surface rust below the battery tray -attempted to fix the intermittent odometer going out issue No pics of that stuff since its pretty boring. I followed dieselgiant's tutorial on the odo thing but did the best I could when getting the locktite into its spot where the gear rides. Wasn't really enough room to really get it in there, so we'll see - its working now but who knows. Again, thanks to all those who have posted tutorials and answers in discussions. Next up is cooling system flush, oil pressure gauge, and full detail hopefully. |
Good Job! Nice lookin' car too.:D
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judging from the screen on your old monovalve... I'd get to the cooling system asap!
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Yes, the cooling system needs attention bad! I've been collecting parts and hope to get it done all in one shot. I planned on doing the monovalve at the same time but my fiance, who DD's it, was begging for some heat ;)
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On another note, the odo seems to be working reliably through a hundred miles or so (fingers crossed).
Also, I had been trying to diagnose why the blower motor was on full blast at all times when the heat was on. At one point I had taken the hvac control module out and checked the solder joints inside and it looked brand new (I found in the old receipts that the PO had bought a NEW one). I checked all the switches, wiring, etc and deduced it maybe the "blower regulator" (forgot about it after I saw the prices). https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-L...0/IMG_4133.JPG https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-v...0/IMG_4163.JPG After replacing the monovalve, the blower motor actually returns to low speed once the cabin is warm. No more annoying "blowing" noise while driving (she likes that :) ) Was the climate control just not sensing the heat requested so it was kicking the blower motor into high speed? Makes sense, but I just don't know how "smart" the climate control is (or thinks it is). I wish I could sit in a w123 with fully functioning climate control so I could see all the features and compare them to mine. In any case, an unintended bonus problem solved. Those are always nice. |
Shifting . . . .
when I got my '83 300D, it had a shifting problem, although I had the pprwrk from the shop that rebuilt the tranny, which showed there was very little mileage on the rebuild. Pierre Hedary tried to dial in the shifting though use of the adjuster on top of the valve cover, and it kept coming out of adjustment. Finally, he put a vacuum gauge to the four lines and found that they were all switched. Once he reconnected them according to the SM, the transmission shifted flawlessly. He said the rebuild was a solid rebuild, nothing wrong with the transmission. As I recall, there were 4 vacuum lines that were involved.
Torie |
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