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  #61  
Old 08-07-2012, 01:32 PM
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After you fix your gauge you should find that you don't need better cooling.

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  #62  
Old 08-07-2012, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GregMN View Post
After you fix your gauge you should find that you don't need better cooling.
There are 2 wires on the temp switch on the receiver/drier that can be connected together, or a switch added to have the fan running all the time, or switched.
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  #63  
Old 08-07-2012, 06:42 PM
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Greg, this may be true, however I always prefer to error on the side of caution. I'm just reassured having an idea of engine temp. RollGuy, I'm not sure I am following your logic, are you talking the AC drier/rec. ? I can post some pics if you tell me what area you need to see to point this out for me.
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  #64  
Old 08-07-2012, 09:45 PM
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Track down the original temperature wire, it'll work fine, but may be long enough to reach the diesel engine's sensor.
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  #65  
Old 08-08-2012, 12:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2peej View Post
Greg, this may be true, however I always prefer to error on the side of caution. I'm just reassured having an idea of engine temp. RollGuy, I'm not sure I am following your logic, are you talking the AC drier/rec. ? I can post some pics if you tell me what area you need to see to point this out for me.
There are 2 switches on the receiver/drier. One is under pressure, and is the low/high pressure switch for the compressor. The other is a thermal switch that turns on the aux fan. It is screwed into the head of the drier to sense high temp. It just closes the contact (effectively connects the two wires together) and turns on the aux fan. You can run a switch in parallel to turn the fan on whenever you choose, or just connect the two wires together to run the fan all the time the ignition is on. If you choose this method, just make a short pigtail with male (spade?) connectors on both ends.
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  #66  
Old 08-08-2012, 06:43 PM
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I have both fans operational, main fan with a jumper for now. Can someone tell me which of the engine temp sensors is the one used to send the signal to the dash temp gauge. Thanks
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  #67  
Old 08-08-2012, 10:27 PM
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The sensor is between two of the glowplugs.
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  #68  
Old 08-09-2012, 11:18 AM
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Thumbs up

Well things are moving ahead. I was able to sort out the temp sensor wire in the 2.2 dsl. head between the two glow plugs which is the green wire in the "A" group ( pictured above ). After a process of elimination I found the correct wire from the 190E harness. Life is good when you know your engine temp. Now I need to track down a vacuum solonoid valve to shut down the IP when I turn off the ignition, any suggestions or help will be great. Last of all I'll tackle wiring up the glow plug sys. using the dsl. setup. Thanks for the help so far, I'm nearly finished.




Last edited by 2peej; 08-09-2012 at 11:29 AM.
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  #69  
Old 08-09-2012, 06:07 PM
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The ceiling may be too low in your garage, but I sure bumped my head on the grill a bunch until I figured out that the hood hinges up to 90 degrees with the shock removed.
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  #70  
Old 08-09-2012, 06:47 PM
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Ceiling is high enough, but I have the car on 18" stands and if I put the hood all the way back the ceiling fan will hit. This set up is good for my heigth.
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  #71  
Old 08-09-2012, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Walkenvol View Post
The ceiling may be too low in your garage, but I sure bumped my head on the grill a bunch until I figured out that the hood hinges up to 90 degrees with the shock removed.
On a 201 chassis, the hood support has a latch that you move that allows the hood to go 90 degrees without removing anything.
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  #72  
Old 08-10-2012, 09:21 AM
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Here, someone was able to install the mechanical vacuum valve on their 190e:
Shut off Diesel on gasser chassis.

I was surprised that the ignition housing had pre-drilled holes for the valve. Might be worth taking a look at yours.
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  #73  
Old 08-10-2012, 10:47 AM
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Thanks, I looking for an in expensive vacuum switch over valve so I can wire it into my ignition sys. to shut down the engine also. I will follow the progress on link you provided. I signed up but need to wait for verification to post comments. I didn't want to pull the ig. switch only as last resort.
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  #74  
Old 08-10-2012, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by 2peej View Post
I didn't want to pull the ig. switch only as last resort.
You may be able to access the ignition switch by removing the instrument cluster, and knee panel.
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  #75  
Old 08-11-2012, 03:39 PM
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I was able to use the fast idle switch over valve to experiment starting and shutting down the engine. I may have it figured out, does anyone have a working used fast idle sw over valve or the one just like it that is used for the control flap and the EGR? I prefer to use one of these as it has a plug that I have the mating end for.




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