Missing or unconnected things, what are these?
 

So after looking over my engine after getting it home I've noticed some things...

First, there is a crack in this hose by the battery, what is it for?



Second, something is missing on the drivers fender area. What do I not have??


Third, I found some lines that are not connected

there are three line, two aren't connected. But there are five holes... am I missing lines? And can anyone tell me which holes these two go into? My driver's door lock doesn't work, I'm kinda hoping one of these if for that!

first off, WELCOME to the forum!

next, the first pic shows your cowl drain. the crack is not important, as it's only for water that enters the cowl vents in front of the windshield.

the second pic shows mounting holes for an option your car didn't have, likely either abs, or an earlier blower resistor box mount, possibly even an euro option.

third, it's the vacuum for the egr controls. if the hoses are still connected on the other end, it could indeed lower your vacuum so the doors don't work.
all the cars have the 5 hole, only the upper left, and lower left two holes are open, just plug the two back into the lower left two holes.
you could also remove the hoses altotether, and plug the connections where they connect by the IP, and the EGR will no longer function. do this to test your door locks.
don't forget to reconnect the hoses, so the Soot heavy exhaust can get back into your intake and satisfy any emission inspections...

4th: It is always helpful to list the model and year of the car you are asking questions about.

Thanks!

Is there a way I can make the pictures not so huge? I thought it would be more useful to use the image button so they are here instead of putting a link that people have to click to imgur.

And okay I'll do that. We don't have emissions inspections where I am so that's good either way

to resize the images, you have to go to the image hosting site, and resize them there and save the changes...

MB egr fun - YouTube

For egr delete.

location, location, location
 

And please do yourself and us a favor and list your location in your profile. It's really easy to do:

Click on "User CP"
then click on "Edit Your Details"
and fill in "Where you live"

Thanks for letting me know. I've added it

I found yet another thing disconnected. This time the vacuum line on it appears to have been torn or ripped. The number I read off of the blue connector reads "008545 08 28" and the only clue I could find while search that is another piece to do with the EGR. So what does it really do?

Seems to be the turbo boost (ALDA) switchover valve.

Follow any other lines, where do they go?

Doesn't appear to be any.

The top orifice should go to the intake manifold, the bottom one to the ALDA.

HOWEVER, many have been bypassed with no repercussions.

the hose coming out of the bottom I highlighted in red. It's torn/cut just where the frame of the picture ends, if you look closely you can kinda see it just barely (I couldn't see what I was taking a pic of cause glare)

That's the only line on it. There are two places for lines on the top though... one with a cap covering it, one open. There is that blue plug thing going somewhere into the cabin, I couldn't find where.

I actually happened to clean my alda today, I didn't completely notice something was fishy. But I did get confused. There was only one hose. My alda connects directly to my intake manifold. I cleaned both banjo bolts and screws. The one on the intake manifold was 100% clogged in all the holes, I mean like it was packed together. You say this is nothing to worry about? I didn't really notice much of a performance difference after cleaning it. It seemed to sound a bit smoother, but maybe that was placebo. I haven't driven the car enough to know what it usually sounds like.

edit: Added a pic of the alda bolt from the intake manifold. This is why you clean it.

Your switchover valve has been bypassed, no worries. That valve has two open orifices, as mentioned earlier, the covered on is the vent, if it receives too much boost, it'll bleed off the excess.

Once your intake manifold banjo bolt and pressure line going to the ALDA is clear, you should notice a significant acceleration difference.

I started my car today after trying to adjust the alda and failing. found the screw was broken, and when I tried to put vice grips on the screw to turn it (since it was already broken) it turned and I found out that it is the anti tampering kind, because the screw just snapped in half. damn.

but after that I tried to take it for a drive and couldn't get more than 5mph out of it. Think the fuel filter is clogged. Took me awhile to find it, because it was covered in soot. After cleaning off the filter, I realized that the filter was completely black on the inside as well... So I think what happened is that even though I cleaned my alda, I didnt notice a performance gain because my filter was clogging up.

You've found out to baseline the car, as in replace all filters, sorry it was the hard way.

The ALDA on the SD is so loose from the IP as to not have any affect, no problems for me.

You need to loosen the nut on the bottom before you turn the screw on top. It is not tamper resistant except for the foil seal.

See note on picture #5 in this thread.