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View Poll Results: 606 Glow Plug stuck, Opinion Poll
Try drilling out GP myself 1 12.50%
bring it to dealer to have them try drilling out GP 1 12.50%
Try pulling head myself 3 37.50%
bring it to Indy to have them pull head 3 37.50%
Voters: 8. You may not vote on this poll

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  #1  
Old 07-17-2012, 09:07 PM
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Unhappy 606 GP stuck, options Poll

Hi, I've suffered the unfortunate luck of breaking my #6 glow plug in the head while trying to removed it. I got the other 5 out, but 6 broke right behind the nut. Plug is still fully threaded onto head.
What should I do. I've done a bunch of research on pulling the head and I have the WIS, but to be honest it scares the crap out of me( so many little things I could F-up, like drop something into the abyss).Also, I've never found a complete run down on what I need to replace after pulling the head, ie intake gasket, exhaust gasket, oil filter housing gasket, and what should be changed while in there(valve job,rings,injector hard lines)
Anyway, what should I do. I figure I have 4 options.
Try to drill out the plug myself
https://sites.google.com/site/alanmcreynolds/howtoremovebrokenglowplugs-mercedesom606
Bring it to the dealer to have them try to drill it out($500) and they might still have to pull the head($$$$)
Pull the head myself
or bring it to and indy I've been to a few times and let them pull the head($$$).
On a side note, I did a cold compression check on the other 5 cylinders and got
#1 260
#2 300
#3 280
#4 300
#5 280
Should this influence my decision?
Car is a 99 E300D, w210 chassis, om606.
Thanks
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1980 240D(the first, 4spd)
1983 300D(WVO experiment) gave to my brother
1987 300D(sold with 360k+ miles on original #14 head)
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  #2  
Old 07-17-2012, 09:17 PM
engatwork's Avatar
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I've got a customer with the same car that had taken it to an independent a few years ago to get new glow plugs. Seems that one broke off and the customer did not want to pay for having the head removed and gp repaired. The independent laid a spare glow plug on the metal piece below the intake and bailing wired it to the piece. Car is running like that to this day. It is easy to tell when the glow plug relay is working because you can see that one glowing. Granted it cold starts rough but he saved some money.

I have yet to see one of these (98/99) need a head gasket.
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  #3  
Old 07-17-2012, 09:32 PM
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Same situation. #6 is to darn close to the oil filter housing to get a good grip on. I tried 3 times. Cut down 6 point sockets, tried shorter 12 point, etc. Already cut the electrode off with a dremel to get a better angle on it. Its rounded off like a 9mm Luger. Tried extractor sockets of multiple kinds and an 18" breaker bar. Its solid and rounds off before it breaks. Can't drill it without removing the oil filter housing first and then due to it being angled back toward the firewall it would take a truly unique drill and short bit to hit the angle right. No good solutions.

So....i'm, going on vacation next week, and an indy is pulling the head and sending it to a machine shop to drill it out.

He'll bust the other 5 loose, antisieze them, and stick them back it before he buttons it up. These went 199k miles before the 1st one went south.

Number 6 is a flat out bear.

edit: PS: I cant imagine taking a 14y/o car to the dealer for anything major (or minor for that matter); they'll spend more than the car is worth in a hearbeat.
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Last edited by TMAllison; 07-17-2012 at 10:03 PM.
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  #4  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:02 PM
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Clearly pulling the Head and sending it to a shop the specializes in removing broke stuff like that is the surest way of not causing more damage.

If there is no room to drill it straight the chances of it coming out are poor and the chances of some damage are increased.

I mentioned this once before I think. What is needed is a Polite Drill that matches the inside hole in the Glow Plug Body (what ever size that is) and has an outside diameter that is the same as the lowest threaded spot on the Glow Plugs.
The Pilot end would keep the Drill centered and you only need to drill just past the threads.

After that soaking with Penetrating Oil and tapping the inside of the Glow Plug for a screw as is in the DIY to pull it out.

Unforunately I don't know the sizes needed to see if there is anything that could be adapted (there is inch sized pilot drills) and I don't have the means to make one easily (and if I did I would need to know the sizes).
I also have no idea if the inside hole in a Beru Glow Plug is the same size as a Bosch one.
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  #5  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:03 PM
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Cost estimate for OM606 head removal for GP replacement...

Done it many times now. HAVE to use hex head screws with washer style heads.

Cost estimate for OM606 head removal for GP replacement...
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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D
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  #6  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:08 PM
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Dealers

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post


edit: PS: I cant imagine taking a 14y/o car to the dealer for anything major (or minor for that matter); they'll spend more than the car is worth in a hearbeat.
AND . . .

they are unlikely to know much about the "old" (10+ years) cars, even less if it's a diesel. Better luck will be had at an indy who specializes in the older M-Bs.

Jeremy
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Our all-biodiesel family
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  #7  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jusme View Post
Cost estimate for OM606 head removal for GP replacement...

Done it many times now. HAVE to use hex head screws with washer style heads.

Cost estimate for OM606 head removal for GP replacement...
Curious what bit and drill combo clears the 3" of space between #6 and the oil filter housing and/or what you use if you first remove the filter? The angle immediately puts you up against the firewall if the drill/bit is more than ~8".

The other 5 are much easier and drilling and extraction methods have been improved in the last 5 years where its usually successful to drill, tap and pull them out of the hole.
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  #8  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:12 PM
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If it were me, I'd think of it as a 5 glow plug car from now on. I'd use a block heater in the dead of winter.
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  #9  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:20 PM
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It's tight, have used a friends 1/4" right angle drill with the filter housing removed. More often for me, the bolt rips off the element though. Once that happens, little work needs to be done to start the screws into the elements. The one in the picture with just a small amount of element is the hardest kind to get out. And with those, you have to start the screw so deep into the chamber that you risk damaging threads if you're not careful as you extract.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
Curious what bit and drill combo clears the 3" of space between #6 and the oil filter housing and/or what you use if you first remove the filter? The angle immediately puts you up against the firewall if the drill/bit is more than ~8".

The other 5 are much easier and drilling and extraction methods have been improved in the last 5 years where its usually successful to drill, tap and pull them out of the hole.
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1987 300SDL #1, 1987 300SDL #2, 1980 240D, 1982 300SD, 1994 S350, 1990 350SDL, 1991 350SD, 1985 300D, 2005 E320CDI

Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D
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  #10  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:35 PM
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Thanks JUSME. Ive considered the right angle drill and even cutting a drill bit down. Not confident it would do the job with a reasonable chance of success. At elast not in my hands. Hard enough to even get the dremmel back in there to cut the element off.

At a point in my life where i've had enough fun and its time for someone else to deal with it. Indy's have to eat too.

Going to try to trade my '85 back to him for the job. He wants $1800 with the head being redone. My daughter doesnt want it and perfers the 99 which with its 6 air bags and more current design is many times safer when she begins driving in 2 years.
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  #11  
Old 07-17-2012, 10:48 PM
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AMEN.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMAllison View Post
Indy's have to eat too.
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Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D
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  #12  
Old 07-17-2012, 11:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kerry View Post
If it were me, I'd think of it as a 5 glow plug car from now on. I'd use a block heater in the dead of winter.
X2
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Previous:
1983 240D, on WVO
1982 300D, on WVO
1983 300CD, on WVO
1984 190D (Deerslayer) on WVO
1986 300SDL 237k, 25k on WVO (Deerslayer)
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  #13  
Old 07-18-2012, 12:53 AM
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So no one has an issue with the compression numbers?

I really want to fix it. I love this car, and if it's possible to fix it right I want to try. I know the car would start fine with 5 good plugs(one was bad last winter) but I want it right.

Jeremy5848-the dealer has the special tools as seen in here. Not sure if they are for the 606 or CDI like the video, but the tech I talked to said they would try the tools first. Then if they don't have access like TMAllison talked about then it's off with it's head.

jusme-the threads are still in the head. So your screw and pry technique won't help, maybe if I get a reverse thread screw.
I've been thinking that since their is so much of the plug still sticking out I might get lucky with some channel locks.
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1980 240D(the first, 4spd)
1983 300D(WVO experiment) gave to my brother
1987 300D(sold with 360k+ miles on original #14 head)
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  #14  
Old 07-18-2012, 05:13 AM
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curious, I have a 94 e300D im putting together. I dont know why, but the head was removed. I bought it as a parts car. the head is on, never got to run! Inspecting why i noticed the motor wouldnt turn over. Reason? Dumb mechanic forgot to install the pins in the timing chain upper rail. So it got eaten by the ip gear jamming the engine LOL and they ditched the whole project (prob though the pistons and valves hit). ANYWAY, first thing I did was remove all six gp's. How do I make sure they never seize? I plan on removing them once every 20k as a preventative measure. Do they need to be reamed? I, and we, need to know how to prevent this issue. Its the only issue this motor really has and its a show stopper.

Also,op, to not hijack your thread I would try removing it via conventional methods. but we all know that aint gonna happen. Remove the head and take it to a good machinist that Knows mercedes heads. I did a 603 head and it really wasn't that difficult. Just time consuming. Spend an hour or two on it here and there (the best way to avoid frustration is taking automotive work in low doses) and it should be a great learning experience.
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Last edited by turbobenz; 07-18-2012 at 05:31 AM.
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  #15  
Old 07-18-2012, 09:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer View Post
jusme-the threads are still in the head. So your screw and pry technique won't help, maybe if I get a reverse thread screw.
I've been thinking that since their is so much of the plug still sticking out I might get lucky with some channel locks.
If there is quite a bit still accessible by pliers, get a set of these tongue and groove nutbusters. They are made to either remove it or break the nut in half. Either way it will come out, or give access to the element.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200308925_200308925?cm_mmc=Google-pla-_-Hand%20Tools-_-Pliers-_-558652&ci_sku=558652&ci_gpa=pla&ci_kw={keyword}
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Gone, but not forgotten: 1981 300SD, 1982 300SD, 1987 300SDL, 1983 300TD, 1980 300CD, 1981 300SD #2, 1987 300D, 1987 300TDT, 1980 300D
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