Pulled my fuel sender the other day to investigate my fuel gauge issue which reported full at all times. Found lots of sludge on the bottom of the unit, contacts were buried, so I cleaned with carb cleaner and noted that the rod that float slides along was badly pitted. I cleaned this and while doing so, tweaked one of the fine wires which has now given me a bouncy fuel gauge needle. Reserve light now works thanks to cleaning but am wondering if there is a way to re-tension the now loose wire ( I understand that the two fine wires are actually one wire) Any way to re-tension this wire? Thanks!

The tabs the wires are attaches to sometimes bend & the wire becomes loose. If that is the case, just bend them back. If the wire has stretched, you can wrap it a turn around the tab to use up the slack.

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Grumpy Old Diesel Owners Club group

I no longer question authority, I annoy authority. More effect, less effort....

1967 230-6 auto parts car. rust bucket.
1980 300D now parts car 800k miles
1984 300D 500k miles
1987 250td 160k miles English import
2001 jeep turbo diesel 130k miles
1998 jeep tdi ~ followed me home. Needs a turbo.
1968 Ford F750 truck. 6-354 diesel conversion.
Other toys ~J.D.,Cat & GM ~ mainly earth moving

Warning - don't snap those wires.

If you do then I've been told that you then need to get a new one (or know how to adjust the calibration of the fuel sender to that it reads correctly)

Although these links are for the sedan version they might help

PeachPartsWiki: Fuel Level Sending Unit replacement

W123 300D Fuel tank sender question

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Excellent, thanks!