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  #16  
Old 08-11-2013, 08:58 PM
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Master pro is car done. I work at oriellys and our rebuilt stuff works 90% of the time without a problem. That's why we give a lifetime Warranty. I buy all the older mercedes parts for my custermors from here if they choise to have me find them and I don't have a good choice.

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84 300sd 2.47 dif 360k
26 mpg needs lots of love
given to me in pitty

89 civic hatchback auto 140k
33mpgs soon to be low to mid 40's
been in the family since mile 1

85 300d with unknown knock. driven over 30k with knock and still going. sold for $800
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  #17  
Old 08-12-2013, 08:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
I did not get any oreilly's axles... no information on them.

I'm happy with the results of rebooting the undamaged MB originals. 4 years, and STILL no leaks or complaints from any of the members with my rebooted axles!
Re: the pair on this vehicle when I bought it: the odometer said 375K when I removed them for other reasons, notices they are STIFF as though the lube become way way densly over thickened grease. But they were silent, just stiff as hell.

Mercedes source guy in Seattle has boot kits with instructions for reboot, $135 for both sides. ONe reads all over the place the original MB were very sturdy. Very.

I've gotten way bored with putting trash in that must be replaced immediately.

Mr. Vstech I'd drop them off to you if I werent' 2800 miles away.

My 1983 Vanagon after one year a pair of boots were shredded. Myele used trashy rubber.

Very bad CV karma lately.
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  #18  
Old 08-13-2013, 09:41 AM
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Kent sells a very nice kit, to be sure. However, the problem comes when you try to crimp the new can. It can be done, but with more than some difficulty. I have one kit left if someone wants to try.
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  #19  
Old 08-13-2013, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by rscurtis View Post
Kent sells a very nice kit, to be sure. However, the problem comes when you try to crimp the new can. It can be done, but with more than some difficulty. I have one kit left if someone wants to try.
he says he provides a crimp tool. So what is the problem?
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  #20  
Old 08-13-2013, 09:41 PM
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If You replace the Stock Boots on a Homokinetic type Axle with Stock type Boots you need a Hydraulic Press to get one end of the Axle Apart so you can remove one of the Cans.
Dorman or Flexx Boots are used if you stretch them over the Cans on the Axle.
Dorman and I believe Astoria (Flexx Boot) have the same versions of their universal boots made Silicon; for high temp areas.

No I have read of has anyone who has tried the Silicone Boots. They cost more and it is an unknown if they will stretch as much as the other universal Boots.
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  #21  
Old 08-13-2013, 10:02 PM
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Silly me

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel911 View Post
If You replace the Stock Boots on a Homokinetic type Axle with Stock type Boots you need a Hydraulic Press to get one end of the Axle Apart so you can remove one of the Cans.
Dorman or Flexx Boots are used if you stretch them over the Cans on the Axle.
Dorman and I believe Astoria (Flexx Boot) have the same versions of their universal boots made Silicon; for high temp areas.

No I have read of has anyone who has tried the Silicone Boots. They cost more and it is an unknown if they will stretch as much as the other universal Boots.

Thanks for your input D911. I always pay close attention to, even look for, your comments.

Just now, on suggestion from a seasoned MB shop guy who does reboot, removed a larger clamp on an outboard side drained the still fluid lube, slid the boot back, to inspect the interior. The lube was normally fluid with some debris in it. I'd guess 80 to 90 wt.

With a flashlite its possible to get a look at the wear surfaces. I see no signs of age at all and for sure no slop, quite the opposite, or play. I now suspect they are low miles since they are quiet and the boots look good, very little crazing and no cracks.

I made a poor assumption right from the get go ... that there was a problem at all. They are quite stiff and I never expected that much stiffness. Though I've seen new VW CV joints that were stiff also.

This is great since reboot I prefer to refrain from ..... just too much mess and hassle special tools people even struggle if they have them....

Now its as simple as replave the clamps and lube and re install them and return the second defective set.
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  #22  
Old 08-14-2013, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket99 View Post
he says he provides a crimp tool. So what is the problem?
The "crimping tool" is a modified pair of cheap vise grips. You'll do better with a ball peen hammer and a punch.
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  #23  
Old 08-14-2013, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by rscurtis View Post
The "crimping tool" is a modified pair of cheap vise grips. You'll do better with a ball peen hammer and a punch.
I've rebooted the axles on a number of cars, but the Mercedes cans have frustrated me.
The FSM shows the official crimping tool - a set of thick, machined rings with a series of large bolts. Someone on this forum made their own. But since I failed with the tranny-funnel and don't have a machine-shop, I opted for the US rebuilt CVJ axles. About $50 more than the Chinese ones availble locally, but they've been on my 240D four years now and there's no sign of leaks or boot decay.

Happy Motoring, Mark
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  #24  
Old 08-15-2013, 10:08 AM
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I went the CVJ route also. They rebooted my original axles which were still in good condition. I then switched them left to right to get another 30 years of wear out of them (if I live that long). I actually had one boot recrimped, but prior to filling it with lube, discovered that the quad ring had moved out of place. That's when I called CVJ.

The MB crimping tool is about $2500 IIRC.
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  #25  
Old 08-15-2013, 02:48 PM
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It sounds like the MB tool is nothing more than a grooved anvil... why so much for that?

I think I could measure the space on the cans, and have my machine shop build me an anvil for like $50... I'll check.
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  #26  
Old 08-15-2013, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vstech View Post
It sounds like the MB tool is nothing more than a grooved anvil... why so much for that?

I think I could measure the space on the cans, and have my machine shop build me an anvil for like $50... I'll check.
One can buy alot of axles for $2500!
The trick is to machine the depth and radius of the groove to apply just the right amount of pressure.

Happy Motoring, Mark

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