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  #31  
Old 10-10-2014, 05:32 PM
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So have you gotten the head off yet? I picked up the #17 and am going to take out the injectors, gps, fuel heater circuit and a very large boltish thing on the passenger side then clean it up as good as I can then off to a machine shop for pressure testing and checking for warpage and flatness. Just curious to see what yours looks like.....wanna see mine
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  #32  
Old 10-11-2014, 12:31 AM
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I don't know that the exhaust manifold doesn't work, I just haven't seen it done. Since you're pulling the head, first remove the trap exhaust manifold and turbo then test fit the streamlined manifold and turbo swapping the pancake 55-trim wastegate housing for the 50-trim wastegate housing and extension to see if the downpipe lines up. Check also that the mixing and crossover pipes line up.

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  #33  
Old 10-19-2014, 04:36 AM
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So it looks like i will be getting the whole 3.5L engine delivered to my house. it was worthless to them and they need the space. i think there is a trans on it too LOL. so now i can take my time removing the head in my garage when i get it. after doing some research, people have said the 3.5L's IP has a different cam and could really improve off the line performance! but no clear answers from someone who has done it. after removing the alda from a friends 350sdl and seeing the HUGE black cloud, i can imagine this would shame some of my diesel truck buddies on the smaller 3.0 block if i floored if off the line! maybe i'll try it . i will get back with mileage on 3.5L engine because i need to decide what to do about taking the head to a machine shop and maybe do valve stem seals and have them check for straightness and clean it up? resurface? i wonder how much that would cost but i'm not touching the bottom end of my 3.0. it has 200k and had no blowby and no oil consumption despite the head issue. since i'm swapping my cam to the #22 head along with lifters and cam towers (if parts are interchangeable), do i need to do the cam bearings? i am concerned about any moisture damage to these moving parts on the #22 head. i have not removed valve cover or even looked at much else on the 3.5 engine but i noticed the oil cap was off and the compressor wheel on turbo was nicked.
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  #34  
Old 10-19-2014, 01:45 PM
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There are no cam bearings to do since the cam runs on the head and cam tower surfaces. In a pinch you could machine cam tower mating surfaces then line bore fresh bearing surfaces. Then hope the cam didn't move down to far... Check the old cam on the new head with Plastigage and go from there.

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  #35  
Old 11-12-2014, 01:25 AM
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ok, so i will be pulling the 22 head off the donor 3.5L block in the next few days. the engine has 148-150k on it and was running fine. the w140 was a 09/92 build date if it matters. i read somewhere that only #17 heads came on the US market 3.5's so is this a replacement head or engine with even less mileage?? 148-150k was on the body. i am going to get MB valve stem seals at the dealer tomorrow because i have heard the aftermarket ones are not a correct fit to say the least. will also check price on head gasket set. my friend can get me a head gasket SET on worldpac for $80. i think it was erling or victor reinz. also head bolts on worldpac came to $52. i understand there are longer bolts needed somewhere for the #22 in the front? are those the tripple square head bolts or the ones in the timing cover? in other words, do i need to order longer head bolts for somewhere? i will be taking it to a machine shop in Ft. Worth that my friend thinks highly of. i am removing everything but the pre-chambers. i hope that is not an issue because i do not have the tool. is there anything they can mess up resurfacing it? i read someone saying if they take too much off you have to use a thicker head gasket that is like $3-500! i sure hope not! my friend made it a big deal that it needs to be milled, not ground so that should make it as precise as possible. i will be using the 3.5's glow plugs assuming they are all good until i can afford a new set.
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  #36  
Old 11-12-2014, 01:27 PM
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1) Mileage = who's to say the #22 head was installed new? Does the block serial number correspond to the car's VIN? Is there a block serial number ahead of the IP or is there a tag on the bell housing flange aft of the block heater?

2) Bolts = the only different bolts are the ones that go into the front cover. Hardware store bolts are fine.

3) Head = a worthwhile machine shop should be able to remove and install the prechambers. Give them a good ultrasonic soaking in case the PO ran WVO. I don't think you can properly surface a head with prechambers in place. Get more opinions but mine is measure the head for flatness then decide if work is needed. Don't touch it beyond a good cleaning unless necessary. An alternative to a thicker head gasket is prechamber shims and living with cam timing that's slightly retarded.

4) Glow plugs = really? Replacing glow plugs in a 603 engine is a clumsy job at best. I'm sure the forum will crowdfund a set of plugs until next payday to save you the hassle of doing it when the head is back in the car. Check the head bolts because most likely they're still within spec to be reused. That'll save you half the cost of a new set of glow plugs. At least check resistance then put the worst ones in positions 4, 5 then 3 in priority order so it'll be easy to replace them by pulling the cruise actuator when you can afford new plugs.

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  #37  
Old 11-24-2014, 12:39 AM
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got the 3.5L donor engine! i also removed the head from my 3.0L that is in the wagon. i was very happy with the triple square xzn bit i got from the dealer. after removing the head, i found a rather large crack between a prechamber and valve plus a handful of other cracks between valves and others like the large one starting to form. i was happy to see the condition of the cylinder walls for having 200,000 miles. one of the pistons was really clean on the edges (see pic). what do you think the deal is there? i did not find any coolant in the cylinders but it has been drained for weeks and i just now removed the head so maybe it leaked there and cleaned the soot off? i'm really hoping the exhaust manifold will work on my 3.0 by swapping the oil lines and support brackets. would also have to make something out of the flex pipes that come out the back of the turbine to the downpipe since i'm using my original garrett turbo on the 3.0. next i will be removing the head from the 3.5 and getting it to the machine shop for cleaning and valve stem seals. hopefully no resurfacing is necessary.
Attached Thumbnails
OM603 3.0L to 3.5L cylinder head interchangeable?-yimg-1138877400-1-2136637111-2.jpg   OM603 3.0L to 3.5L cylinder head interchangeable?-20141123_182340-2.jpg   OM603 3.0L to 3.5L cylinder head interchangeable?-yimg-1118634192-1-1059284333-2.jpg  
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  #38  
Old 11-24-2014, 01:15 AM
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The 3.0/50 trim turbo will have to be clocked for the new environment. Since the turbine inlet will now point to the head rather than up, the center section will have to be clocked to align with the oil supply and drain fittings, and the compressor housing will have to be clocked to compensate. You'll have to swap over the slimmer wastegate housing of the 3.5/55 trim turbo to keep the 3.5/55 trim downpipe connector. That means modifying the 3.0/50 trim actuator as well. I don't know if the 3.0/50 trim downpipe connector can be made to fit so you don't have to modify the downpipe. None of the MB Garretts I've worked on have the turbo sections indexed so you might have to align things by trial-and-error, or use the 3.5/55 trim turbo as a guide to eyeball clocking.

My guess is the cylinder - piston crown and all - were steam cleaned by coolant seeping into the combustion chamber. Soot won't come off with a simple water or coolant soak.

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  #39  
Old 11-24-2014, 01:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixto View Post
The 3.0/50 trim turbo will have to be clocked for the new environment. Since the turbine inlet will now point to the head rather than up, the center section will have to be clocked to align with the oil supply and drain fittings, and the compressor housing will have to be clocked to compensate. You'll have to swap over the slimmer wastegate housing of the 3.5/55 trim turbo to keep the 3.5/55 trim downpipe connector. That means modifying the 3.0/50 trim actuator as well. I don't know if the 3.0/50 trim downpipe connector can be made to fit so you don't have to modify the downpipe. None of the MB Garretts I've worked on have the turbo sections indexed so you might have to align things by trial-and-error, or use the 3.5/55 trim turbo as a guide to eyeball clocking.

My guess is the cylinder - piston crown and all - were steam cleaned by coolant seeping into the combustion chamber. Soot won't come off with a simple water or coolant soak.

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i'll check out the whole turbo/ manifold swap as i go but not too worried if it doesn't work out. and that makes complete sense about the piston being steamed by coolant. i think i remember seeing i small puff of steam on a hot restart once. the cooling system had a lot of pressure in it so it could easily push coolant back into the cylinder when shut off. i haven't had this wagon long but i knew something was wrong haha. so just to confirm, i don't want any resurfacing done to my new #22 head if it checks out straight? just clean it and install new valve stem seals? i want to make everything go as nice as possible so i don't have to do this again ya know.
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  #40  
Old 11-24-2014, 01:29 AM
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do you think a citric acid flush will loosen most of that rust? i loosened the block drain and clean blue mb coolant came out but it seems to be built up a bit in the block
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  #41  
Old 11-24-2014, 01:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenzTurbo View Post
so just to confirm, i don't want any resurfacing done to my new #22 head if it checks out straight? just clean it and install new valve stem seals? i want to make everything go as nice as possible so i don't have to do this again ya know.
I wouldn't want any resurfacing that isn't warranted. Certainly not because the shop is running a special. Now, if the head is out of spec...

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  #42  
Old 11-24-2014, 01:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BenzTurbo View Post
do you think a citric acid flush will loosen most of that rust? i loosened the block drain and clean blue mb coolant came out but it seems to be built up a bit in the block
That presents a dilemma. You can't flush the block without a head but do you want to flush that junk through a freshly cleaned head? Can you slap the cracked head back on the block for a flush? Reuse the head gasket with easy-to-remove RTV then wedge the thermostat open so you can flush the engine cold. Run the water pump with a belt and electric motor.

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  #43  
Old 11-24-2014, 01:52 AM
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Originally Posted by sixto View Post
I wouldn't want any resurfacing that isn't warranted. Certainly not because the shop is running a special. Now, if the head is out of spec...

Sixto
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when they clean it without resurfacing, will the surface be very clean? even taking a small amount of material off will cause enough problems where i would have to do prechamber shims and or thicker head gasket?
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  #44  
Old 11-24-2014, 01:58 AM
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http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12264/Program/Engine/602_603/01-418.pdf

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  #45  
Old 11-24-2014, 02:00 AM
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maybe i should print that and bring it with me? thank you again man
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