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  #31  
Old 12-12-2017, 10:32 PM
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Location: New Hampton, NH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
I had to put a clutch in my 85, 5 spd, Euro, TD several years ago and the clutch parts were the same as I use in my 240Ds.
It looks like the 617.95X has 184 ft/lbs torque compared to the 97ft/lbs the 616 pots out. That is a big difference. It would make sense that there would be a different clutch for the bigger engine.

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1980 300TD with 1985 300TD Turbo motor and 240D 4 speed.
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  #32  
Old 12-12-2017, 11:01 PM
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I am running the Sachs clutch on my coupe with om617a with 5 speed. I do have the heavy flywheel and I have not had any issues at all. My son has the same set up in his sedan and he had to replace his clutch due to wear, but then he drives it like he stole it!
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1973 Unimog 416 Doka
1980 Unimog 416 Doka
1981 Unimog 416 Doka
1984 Euro 280CE w/diesel conversion
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  #33  
Old 12-12-2017, 11:48 PM
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85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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SPEC is not worth the money. Get a proper clutch shop to rebuild the hub and quit being so abusive .

I sourced the gwagen flywheel and clutch from Mercedes for about $1200 in 2006ish.
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  #34  
Old 12-13-2017, 12:17 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Location: Lafayette Indiana
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I had the disc springs fail when my son was driving a high mileage 240d...bout 200K IIRC. I'd suggest launching more gently and crunching the gas pedal once rolling well.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #35  
Old 12-13-2017, 01:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
I had the disc springs fail when my son was driving a high mileage 240d...bout 200K IIRC. I'd suggest launching more gently and crunching the gas pedal once rolling well.
I am pretty careful driving not to "dump" the clutch too hard. I have only had manual trans cars in 25 years of driving, and I have always had good luck with clutch life (until now). My 99 tacoma is at 240k with the original clutch and I use that to haul stuff around the farm and for towing.
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  #36  
Old 12-13-2017, 01:21 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordo View Post
I am pretty careful driving not to "dump" the clutch too hard. I have only had manual trans cars in 25 years of driving, and I have always had good luck with clutch life (until now). My 99 tacoma is at 240k with the original clutch and I use that to haul stuff around the farm and for towing.
Sounds like that is not the problem then.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #37  
Old 12-13-2017, 02:58 PM
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I wonder if it is the lighter flywheel that is causing the issue. I know my son had over 100k miles on his clutch before it started to slip, and like I said, he drives it like he stole it!
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Von
Fairport, NY
1973 Unimog 416 Doka
1980 Unimog 416 Doka
1981 Unimog 416 Doka
1984 Euro 280CE w/diesel conversion
1985 300TD Estate wagon
(I really need to stop buying these things!)
http://vonsmog.com
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  #38  
Old 12-13-2017, 03:44 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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I cannot picture why it would.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #39  
Old 12-15-2017, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
SPEC is not worth the money. Get a proper clutch shop to rebuild the hub and quit being so abusive .

I sourced the gwagen flywheel and clutch from Mercedes for about $1200 in 2006ish.
I thought the gwagen had the same motor as the 240d. Was there a 617 powered gwagen?
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1980 300TD with 1985 300TD Turbo motor and 240D 4 speed.
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  #40  
Old 12-15-2017, 02:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by winmutt View Post
SPEC is not worth the money. Get a proper clutch shop to rebuild the hub and quit being so abusive .

I sourced the gwagen flywheel and clutch from Mercedes for about $1200 in 2006ish.
You are right. The 1990 G461 had a 617. Does the flywheel and clutch work with the 240 transmission?
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  #41  
Old 12-18-2017, 07:10 PM
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Alignment of input shaft?

Here is a photo of my latest broken clutch disk. I am wondering if this could be caused by an alignment issue between the engine and transmission. Does anyone know a good way to check the alignment of the input shaft with the center of the crank? My pilot bearing and input shaft bearing seem to be in good shape. Mercedes does not use alignment pins anywhere on the bell housing like I have seen on other cars.If it is a little off it seems like that could cause a vibration that might eventually damage the hub on the clutch disk, as shown.
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300 tdt Clutch Issues-img_2103.jpg  
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  #42  
Old 12-18-2017, 10:23 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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Yes, that seems possible. Are you sure about the alignment pins? Perhaps there should be some and they got eliminated when the conversion was done...?
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #43  
Old 12-18-2017, 11:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gordo View Post
Here is a photo of my latest broken clutch disk. I am wondering if this could be caused by an alignment issue between the engine and transmission. Does anyone know a good way to check the alignment of the input shaft with the center of the crank? My pilot bearing and input shaft bearing seem to be in good shape. Mercedes does not use alignment pins anywhere on the bell housing like I have seen on other cars.If it is a little off it seems like that could cause a vibration that might eventually damage the hub on the clutch disk, as shown.
G:

1) Does the transmission have an aluminum case, or an iron case?

2) To your knowledge, has the intermediate plate (the aluminum plate bolted to the back of the engine) been centered to the crankshaft? Inasmuch as the manual trans installation was post production, the intermediate plate would not have been factory centered.
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  #44  
Old 12-19-2017, 10:56 AM
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I have a euro 300D factory manual vehicle for ssle...
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My drivers:
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  #45  
Old 12-19-2017, 11:22 PM
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This car has 470k on the clock. I have driven this car about 200k since I put a manual transmission in it in 2006. This forum deserves I a lot of credit as I was able to get a lot of questions answered.

The first transmission I put in was from a 76 240d, it had the iron case and worked well until 2012 (aprox 150k) It started to get pretty scratchy downshifting in to second. Since I was pulling the transmission to do another clutch anyway, I decided to put a new (salvage) transmission in.

The second transmission was the aluminum case variety from an 82ish 240d. As I mentioned earlier I decided to weld the clutch disk hub, so I would not have the springs break and cause problems. That trany did not last long... IIRC not even a year, the welded clutch worked fine but the gearbox was destroyed (broken gears, holy crap)

The third trany went in in April of this year. It is a iron an iron case transmission that came from a 74 220d.

None of them have had alignment pins that I am aware of. I have never taken off the intermediate plate between the engine and the bell housing. I have not needed to, as the manual tranys bolt up the same way that the original automatic did. I am not aware of any way to adjust how the intermediate plate is centered. Interesting thought though..

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