This is why I never get any work done when needing a question answered because I have to filter through all of this bull crap.

You should demand a full refund of your membership fee!!!

Everyone has their own way of doing things; but I hate depending on other People.

When I first My Mercedes I was desparate for information. I aquired a Factor Service Manual CD as soon as I could. And, I consider the Manual the very best place to start when looking for information.

After that I spend a lot of My spare time reading through various Mercedes Forums looking for info I can use.

Trying to assist People with infomation or Parts has helped Me imensly in knowing where to look for information and to get cheap parts.

You might wade through pages and pages of BS and uncover some Jem of Knowlege that saves you time, money and frustration later.

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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel

it wasn't junkman who deleted his "words"... I can see all deleted posts.
this thread is in the reported section for us mods...

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

Lol, I'm stirring old embers. I just meant I can't stand all these pissing battles. I like threads that stay on topic. This thread could have ended after the first 2 posts.

Edit: Lol at qwerty

Well seeing as it's a pissing battle...

...I like threads that stay technical but go off topic - that's often when people start learning in my opinion. You can't always compartmentalise a forum into simple Q and A. I do agree, however, that it is a shame when a discussion degenerates to name calling.

I can, however, confirm Govert's god-like qualities. I have met him and he bought me dinner - what more do I need to say?

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

Perhaps someone can answer this question so I don't have to start a new thread...

My timing appeared to be at 24 BTDC on my OM617 out of an '83 300SD. I removed the ALDA because I couldn't stand how laggy it made it. Even with the ALDA on, I still saw EGT's up to 11-1200. With the ALDA off, I can easily hit 1200 degrees F. Today I decided to rotate the injection pump towards the engine. Before I moved it, the chisel marks on the IP and the engine block were both lined up. I thought I remembered someone saying that if you have the lines marked up, that gives you 2 degrees of timing play in either direction. Therefore, I rotate the pump as far toward the engine as possible to shoot for 26 BTDC. I got everything hooked back up, started it up, and the first thing I heard sounded like very harsh slapping from loose valves. I just adjusted the valves though. They're good. I let the truck idle for about 10 seconds, then hit the throttle. LOTS of black smoke came out. Even at idle it rolls a LOT of coal.

Is there any way I advanced it past the common setting of 27 BTDC? I've heard advancing it too far will cause excessive smoke. I need quick help on this one. Any suggestions on where to set it? Where it was before wasn't good, but if I have to pull the pump to make it better, then that may have to do.

Thanks!

That's exactly what you did.

Set it back to where it was originally until you properly check the start of delivery to know where you are.

Setting the timing blindly won't ever work.

The full adjustment range is far greater than that. The witness marks could be anywhere in the adjustment range, so their location is pretty meaningless.

Ooooooh. Well I snapped off the fitting that goes into the oil filter housing so the truck's down for the count now anyways. It also appeared that the witness marks were at full retardation. I went out and retimed it and couldn't get it to retard past those marks. I'll be ordering a drip tube timer so I can just set it to 27 and be done, and looking for a replacement fitting to go into the oil filter housing.

Anyone think it's a good idea to just grab a bolt and drill the center of it out? (I cut the external threads off and welded an AN fitting onto the piece that threads into the filter housing and ran an aftermarket cooler with AN lines. So, I just need something with the right threads and a hole in the middle to weld back onto my AN adapter).

Perhaps I should start a new thread, but does anyone know the story behind the injection pump delivery valve copper crush washers? They are no longer available from PeachParts. When I asked my Bosch dealer about them a year ago, he said he had a tub full of them. When I called him now, he said he's out and can't get any more!

WHAT GIVES!?


mercedes part # 000-074-17-59
bosch part # 1 410 105 020

Well I can't say for sure that everyone has them in stock but putting 0000741759 into google comes up with many many possibilities

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!