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  #31  
Old 08-07-2012, 12:51 AM
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I tried adjusting my rack dampener bolt but it was turned in just about all the way. I adjusted it out a little to see if there was a difference but it didn't help. I adjusted it back all the way in. I also turned the ALDA out another 1/4 to make about 1/2 turn CCW total. I did notice a bit of a performance increase. I will report the smoke opacity if I see any on the way to work tomorrow morning. It's hard to tell at dusk. I'm hoping once I install the new rack dampener, the idle will calm down. It's not horrible but I can feel some shaking in the steering wheel and around the car. I have seen much worse. I want perfection, though.

I may adjust the ALDA a little more and judge the exhaust temps by the smoke opacity and engine temp. I definitely don't want to risk burning holes in pistons or valves! Yes, cylinder temps do affect coolant temps.

I do seem to get quicker turbo response and when it does spool up, I feel a little more pull than before. I am very close to being satisfied, performance wise.

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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #32  
Old 08-09-2012, 10:45 PM
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Still waiting for that rack dampener bolt to come in. *taps fingers on desk*
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #33  
Old 08-10-2012, 03:23 AM
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cho cho is offline
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hot baby hot

Quote:
Originally Posted by Zacharias View Post
Just to clarify... you did try adjusting the new gold bolt and/or adjusting the idle setting? Simply installing the new bolt alone isn't sufficient. Also, you ARE aware that the adjustments are supposed to be made with the motor HOT? I was taught it should ideally be done after 20 minutes of hard driving.

As these cars age there is no universal golden rule on how the idle and rack damper bolt should be set up. Individual cars can be quite different.

You sometimes have to experiment with adjusting both the idle speed and the bolt, to achieve the smoothest idle. (In other words, if you can't get a smooth idle at the current idle speed, then try adjusting the idle speed a bit up or down then play with the bolt again.)

On some cars it can be a maddening process. For example, I owned one SD that felt like it took forever to set up. I eventually found that it was only "happy" idling just under 700 rpms, which I dislike as too low, but I could never get it to smooth out (even with the new bolt) at a higher setting.

If adjustments don't improve matters, perhaps a compression test is in order?
yes,it was properly done,hot...

compression is 25.5 bar across all 5 (0.5 diff between)

700 is also mine sweetest idle ...

but let's not hijack post

.
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next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered
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  #34  
Old 08-10-2012, 03:33 AM
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diesel power
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
I tried adjusting my rack dampener bolt but it was turned in just about all the way. I adjusted it out a little to see if there was a difference but it didn't help. I adjusted it back all the way in. I also turned the ALDA out another 1/4 to make about 1/2 turn CCW total. I did notice a bit of a performance increase. I will report the smoke opacity if I see any on the way to work tomorrow morning. It's hard to tell at dusk. I'm hoping once I install the new rack dampener, the idle will calm down. It's not horrible but I can feel some shaking in the steering wheel and around the car. I have seen much worse. I want perfection, though.

I may adjust the ALDA a little more and judge the exhaust temps by the smoke opacity and engine temp. I definitely don't want to risk burning holes in pistons or valves! Yes, cylinder temps do affect coolant temps.

I do seem to get quicker turbo response and when it does spool up, I feel a little more pull than before. I am very close to being satisfied, performance wise.

if you do not press that pedal too heavy you should not notice any
change in smoke appearance ... so many guys drive without ALDA at all
most of them are pleased,a very few with heavy leg are taken ALDA back..

.
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next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered
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  #35  
Old 08-10-2012, 10:10 AM
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I would probably enjoy the extra power so much that people would think the car is on fire. Currently, in gear I don't get any smoke even if I floor it from a stop. It doesn't really jump up and take off, either. If the car is in park and I goose the throttle, I do see a puff of black smoke. It could be happening in gear and I'm not seeing it but I did put the car in drive and goose it and I didn't see any smoke. I'm at 1/2 turn up right now.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #36  
Old 08-10-2012, 10:45 AM
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Perfection doesn't exist, IMO.

My SD has the ALDA disengaged, no problems.
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  #37  
Old 08-10-2012, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
I would probably enjoy the extra power
the ALDA would not get you there...

anyways,if you max your ALDA all the way,and while "pedal to the metal"
no smoke,...reconsider malfunctioning ALDA or proudly expose us to the
very first SD that burned all fuel that way
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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered
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  #38  
Old 08-10-2012, 11:24 AM
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Maybe I'll turn it up another half turn and if I don't see a noticeable difference, then maybe the ALDA is shot and is asking me to take it off the car.

Rack Dampener bolt came in today. Now I have something to do tonight after my evening scotch.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #39  
Old 08-10-2012, 12:07 PM
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cho cho is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
Maybe I'll turn it up another half turn and if I don't see a noticeable difference, then maybe the ALDA is shot and is asking me to take it off the car.

Rack Dampener bolt came in today. Now I have something to do tonight after my evening scotch.
scotch and hot engine? mmmmm

btw best way to establish ALDA malfunctioning is to plug a line from
manifold and do some test stress short ride..if things are the same
(meaning you have all time fully restricted fuel)
THEN you have broken ALDA

happy scotch-ing mate

.
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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered
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  #40  
Old 08-10-2012, 12:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
If the car is in park and I goose the throttle, I do see a puff of black smoke. It could be happening in gear and I'm not seeing it but I did put the car in drive and goose it and I didn't see any smoke. I'm at 1/2 turn up right now.
You should see a significant puff of smoke if you floor it and engage the kickdown switch when driving.

If you aren't, then if you haven't done so already, you need to check the line that runs from the banjo bolt at the rear of the exhaust manifold, across the firewall and terminates at the ALDA, to ensure it isn't broken/torn. If the line is intact, then remove the banjo bolt and clean it... if it is clogged, or the line is compromised, the ALDA is never hearing about the need for more fuel.

Gently gently when reinstalling the banjo bolt it is very easy to strip the threads.

You could also experiment with unplugging the overboost protection switch. Frankly I don't think it does much to begin with.
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #41  
Old 08-10-2012, 02:31 PM
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I have already tried all of those suggestions. The line has been cleaned and still is as of the other day. Boost switch bypassed.

When I unplugged the ALDA, I plugged the boost line so as not to have a boost leak. On the test drive, I didn't notice much difference in off the line power but the top end performance was less than usual.

Scotch works well with a hot engine. At least when I burn my hand 10-12 times on the oil canister it won't hurt as much.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #42  
Old 08-10-2012, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post
I have already tried all of those suggestions.
Ah. Ok well then it's time for that additional half turn on the ALDA.

When you first adjusted the ALDA, was the tamperproof seal still in place or had someone had it off already?

Do you get to have more Scotches, the more often you burn yourself?
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2002 e320 4matic estate│1985 300d│1980 300td
Previous: 1979 & 1982 & 1983 300sd │ 1982 240d

“Let's take a drive into the middle of nowhere with a packet of Marlboro lights and talk about our lives.” ― Joseph Heller, Catch-22
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  #43  
Old 08-10-2012, 02:53 PM
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cho cho is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eatont9999 View Post

When I unplugged the ALDA, I plugged the boost line so as not to have a boost leak. On the test drive, I didn't notice much difference in off the line power but the top end performance was less than usual.
I can safely conclude,..we have yet another proud member with new signature:

EGR,ALDA deleted

.
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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered
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  #44  
Old 08-10-2012, 04:15 PM
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I didn't notice any tamper proof seal on the ALDA. It is just a bolt threaded onto a screw. If there was some kind of paint markings, they are long gone. The screw is pretty stiff to turn, though.

I like your idea about the scotch metering. I have a feeling I would pass out before I could finish the job, though.

My EGR stuff has been removed from the valve cover. I am waiting to receive an EGR delete kit so I can remove the silly little tubes and the rest of the junk over there. It beats me if the EGR is stuck open or closed. I imagine it is closed.
__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
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  #45  
Old 08-10-2012, 07:30 PM
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Well, I'm gonna go out and break some stuff on my car. I'll let y'all know what happens.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge
Reply With Quote
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