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#1
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86' 300SDL - 4 yr nap recovery!
HI,
First benz for us just inherited from my Dad as my son's first car - and we need to rececitate it after a 4 yr nap! Quick history: 1. Parked last 4 yrs, didn't move an inch - no prep for storage at all (i.e. 4yr deisel). 2. Still running 4 yrs ago - but a little on the rough side - PO suspected bad diesel but no data exists to suppport this. 2. Tank registers just under half full - bummer thats a lot to drain. 4. Car has 225k on it but enine was replaced by PO with a wrecker engine - no data on miles pedigree, etc. Recover efforts so far: 1. Cleaned engine so we can see it 2. Replaced injector return lines (were leaking like drip drip drip). 3. Drained engine oil as plug was leaking (drip, drip, drip) - seal surface on pan may be damaged (how does one do that!!!!!!) will inspect further. 4. Purchased new battery - no power to car yet. 5. Purchased 4 each new primary/secondary fuel filters (anticipation). So the question is how to best deal with the fuel situation or anything else on recovery i should be doing? A. Should i try to start and see what happens, or will doing so potentially plug injectors? B. Run until filters clog and change. C. Draining tank and lines first is imperative, do this w/o question? Thanks is andvance for any advice/reccomendations. I have read some of the threads on tank removale / tank screen cleaning. |
#2
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I personally wouldn't worry about the old diesel. Diesel, unlike gas, tends not to gum up and deteriorate as badly.
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2004 F150 4.6L -My Daily 2007 Volvo XC70 -Wife's Daily 1998 Ford F150 -Rear ended 1989 J-spec 420SEL -passed onto its new keeper 1982 BMW 733i -fixed and traded for the 420SEL 2003 Volvo V70 5 Speed -scrapped 1997 E290 Turbo Diesel Wagon -traded for above 1992 BMW 525i -traded in 1990 Silver 300TE -hated the M103 1985 Grey 380SE Diesel Conversion, 2.47 rear end, ABS -Sold, really should have kept this one 1979 Silver 300D "The Silver Slug" -Sold |
#3
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I would crank it over with a hand held starter to build oil pressure, before letting it try to run on its own. Also, check all of the glow plugs to make sure they work. A simple ohm test works well enough.
If you do need some/all... remove the cruise servo. This makes doing five of the six a breeze. Aside from that, make sure it has coolant and ATF in the trans. Check to see the air inlet to the turbocharger is clear (no rodent houses).
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#4
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If you suspect there is water and bacteria in the fuel treat it with biocide the day before you want to start it. Otherwise I agree with the fellows above....nothing to fear except bacteria.
Once the bacteria is killed it should run through the filters, but if you suspected fuel issues four years ago probably would be good to start by changing the fuel and air filters. Good luck!
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#5
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Hell, that brings up a good idea... just start it on a separate tank of fuel if there are concerns about the tank.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#6
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Absolutely try to start it. Old diesel, unlike gas will burn fine. It is only light oil to start with.
If it were me, I would have started it on the old oil & then brought it to temperature before draining it. That gets a LOT more junk out of the crankcase. I hope you used a diesel specific oil like Delo, Delvac or Rotella T. Run the engine a few hundred miles on this oil and then do a hot, extended oil drain. Letting it drain overnight wouldn't hurt. After you've sorted it out a little, change the anti freeze. Good luck with it. My son & my daughter's first car was a high mileage Benz diesel. Makes a good first car. Keep us posted.
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2001 SLK 320 six speed manual 2014 Porsche Cayenne six speed manual Annoy a Liberal, Read the Constitution |
#7
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8 easy steps.....
I've been on this forum for about 5.5 years and have brought a few cars back to life. Here's what I would do:
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daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
#8
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Thanks great info.
The drain plug surface has a defect, a tunnel about 5mm in depth into the surface - hence the leak. I've never seen this before. I think filling it is the only option - though i can't imagine an epoxy resting the copper washer squeeze. Any ideas? Is there a way to inspect for a fungi presnence. Like stick a coathanger in the tank and see what comes out? If present what biocide is reccomended? Thanks again. Paul Last edited by Oldschoolgwin; 08-04-2012 at 01:57 AM. Reason: add pic |
#9
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There are kits available for repairing such a defect by inserting in the hold a new threaded insert and using a new drain plug probably.
I would get a good used lower pan and replace it.
__________________
[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC] ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#10
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Ha! If only. No "lower pan" on a 603A. It's $500, and on a 124 or 126 requires pulling the engine to change.
Given the oily porosity, any adhesive (silicone, epoxy, etc) will be pretty near impossible to successfully utilize. Since the defect is "almost" under the drain plug, try using a larger aluminum or copper sealing washer; you may have to make your own.
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James Marriott 2003 Buick Regal 1983 300D (228k, frau Auto) 1996 Suburban K2500 (192k, 6.5 turbo diesel/4WD towmaster 10,000) www.engineeringworks.biz 1987 300SDL junker 170k 1982 300SD junker, 265k |
#11
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Update
Update
1. Found an oversize flange oil plug that may have fixed that issue. I did not add oil to the filter canister - maybe that would be a good idea? 2, New battery installed. 2. Changed oil filter and replaced oil 7 quarts for now. 3. Turned engine over by crank bolt to see that it was not siezed or liquid locked - found this to be a great job for my son, must have turned it over 10 to 15 times and then it came to a sudden stop - felt like a liquid lock. Reversed rotation - went forward felt a bit of a toggle but went past it (that was odd) went 2 or 3 revolutions - same thing again. Any idea what this engine lock is? High risk on a start up? I can't imagine it was a liquid lock - it would seem to not go away. It did cross my mind that we are building diesel in the cylinders as there is not enough velocity to blow the unburned diesel out (assuming diesel is going into injectors< Thanks. |
#12
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I am not familiar with your car specifically, but in general, it is strongly recommended that you never turn these engines backwards. I was just a bit worried when I read "reversed rotation." Others here can advise you better than myself, but I wanted to notify you as soon as possible to avoid possible damage.
As an aside, I suspect you are just feeling the compression of the engine. Maybe one of your cylinders has better compression than the others, so you are feeling the resistance of only that cylinder on its compression stroke. Again, others can advise you best.
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1968 220D, w115, /8, OM615, Automatic transmission. My 1987 300TD wagon was sold and my 2003 W210 E320 wagon was totaled (sheds tear). |
#13
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Without the filter in place, the oil will just leak back into the pan, anyway. The pump will fill it quickly--just watch for oil pressure within about 5 seconds of startup. Though probably you'll be cranking it long enough to build good pressure before it starts.
__________________
James Marriott 2003 Buick Regal 1983 300D (228k, frau Auto) 1996 Suburban K2500 (192k, 6.5 turbo diesel/4WD towmaster 10,000) www.engineeringworks.biz 1987 300SDL junker 170k 1982 300SD junker, 265k |
#14
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Quote:
This interference bothers me - felt more like a hard stop rather and definately not regular compression building. Before attempted start I need to resolve this. Do you recomend pulling the cam cover and checking the cam timing wrt crank and or IJ? Thanks, Paul |
#15
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Used oil pan
Quote:
__________________
daw_two Germantown, TN Links: Sold last car --- 05/2012 1984 300D Light Ivory, Red interior Cluster Needles Paint New Old Stock (NOS) parts Past: 3/2008 1986 300SDL "Coda" 04/2010 1965 190D(c) "Ben" & many more |
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