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  #1  
Old 08-04-2012, 09:40 AM
NCfriend's Avatar
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Diesel model decision, please advise

So I am certain there is loads of info and practical based opinions in the formum somewhere already, but in an effort to save a bit of time with my limited computer use I am just out right asking:

What diesel MB model would you recomend

I am looking to scale down my w123 investments and get something "newer" for the wife.
Parameters:

#1 Better safety for the new family.
ABS, some airbags, handling, and bigger body, brings us to...

#2 More room for the family.
Rear seat that can handle the baby seats. Quieter and legroom improvements. A big trunk (since wagons are rare)

#3 Not over complicated for DIY.
Avoiding computers and complicated emissions. Major flaw years where you have to investigate dealer recalls ex 350SDL. Leads to..

#4 Accepting of WVO.
Sure anything is possible and some folks wouldn't use the stuff in their neighbor's tractor, but I am looking for an equally simple and forgiving engine as the 617. I filter very well from a quality source, but don't want to kill a performance car or constantly clog the wrong kind of injection system

#5 Reasonably affordable parts and quality used models to search for


Open to other good factors that could limit my search.

Thanks for reading


And if you have a good example for sale
PM me, especially if you want to work a trade for one of my w123s

__________________
1990 300D 2.5Turbo, two tank WVO, daily driver 300,911
1992 E300 gaser, 150k. Parts only, For Sale

[B]1984 300TD Euro 4speed Sold
1977 300D Elsbett SVO single tank Sold
1981 300TD "Silver bullet" 285k ran B100 Sold
1981-5 300D x 5 cars stripped and reused, parts for sale

Other toys:
1995 Dodge 2500 Cummins 12V P7100 Bosch mechanical pump with 2 tank veggieconversion kit, only 120k!
1959 Cadillac Dad's legacy, needs finishing
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  #2  
Old 08-04-2012, 09:54 AM
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Unfortunately, your list of requirements cannot be met with a single M/B vehicle. You cannot have a vehicle that is both significantly larger than the W123 and also durable to take the WVO without complaint.

The closest approximation is the OM606 powered W210 vehicles. However, they are not much larger than the W123 and you'd need to be quite careful with WVO as the IP is certainly less forgiving than the MW IP on the 617. I'm sure it can be done with a sophisticated two tank system, but not without some risk.

You could, of course, consider the older SD or SDL vehicles from the W126, which fit the bill for size but not for the sophistication desired by the wife.
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  #3  
Old 08-04-2012, 09:57 AM
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Having never even driven a Mercedes, i feel totally qualified to answer your question. Tongue firmly in cheek- but really, I have no bias. I just recently decided I want a mercedes and began looking into them. My criteria is similar to yours and I've arrived at the 1995 E300 Diesel


- Least electronic engine control
- Last of the W124 (most refined)
- Fairly exhaustive research of this and other forums reveals TWO major issues-- biodegradable engine harness and corrosion at the AC evap (lots of work to replace) It's not hard to find samples on which both issues have been addressed.
- for a daily driver it seems to be way undervalued.


good luck.
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  #4  
Old 08-04-2012, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hertfordnc View Post
i feel totally qualified to answer your question.



I've arrived at the 1995 E300 Diesel

Quote:
Originally Posted by NCfriend View Post

#2 More room for the family.
Rear seat that can handle the baby seats. Quieter and legroom improvements. A big trunk (since wagons are rare)

Epic fail.
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  #5  
Old 08-04-2012, 10:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
Epic fail.
Really? The rear seats are not generous? Of course, i assume the OP did not expect a perfect match to his criteria.

And, was that Twain quote always in your sig or did you change it for my benefit?
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  #6  
Old 08-04-2012, 10:13 AM
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Thanks already guys.
I did read through hertfordnc's decision process on the '95
Also an w210 discussion on the alternative fuels section (a little homework)

I would be doing a quality 2-tank system before using any veggie oil, and know this will sacrifice some trunk space.
Room increase from w123 platform doesn't have to be huge, but 190Ds sound too small.

I am going to look at a 1986 300SDL this week. Would that long body weight just guzzle the fuel climbing mountains?
My non-turbo 300 climbs slow and isn't anything awesome on mpg.
__________________
1990 300D 2.5Turbo, two tank WVO, daily driver 300,911
1992 E300 gaser, 150k. Parts only, For Sale

[B]1984 300TD Euro 4speed Sold
1977 300D Elsbett SVO single tank Sold
1981 300TD "Silver bullet" 285k ran B100 Sold
1981-5 300D x 5 cars stripped and reused, parts for sale

Other toys:
1995 Dodge 2500 Cummins 12V P7100 Bosch mechanical pump with 2 tank veggieconversion kit, only 120k!
1959 Cadillac Dad's legacy, needs finishing
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  #7  
Old 08-04-2012, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hertfordnc View Post
Really? The rear seats are not generous? Of course, i assume the OP did not expect a perfect match to his criteria.

And, was that Twain quote always in your sig or did you change it for my benefit?
The W124 and the W123 are almost identical in interior room. In fact, some might find the W123 to be larger in some areas.

My recommendation of the w210 could also be questionable due to size, but it's a better choice than a 123 or 124.

It's been there for the last year. I put it there for one specific individual on this forum who richly deserves it. That would not be you.
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  #8  
Old 08-04-2012, 10:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCfriend View Post

I am going to look at a 1986 300SDL this week. Would that long body weight just guzzle the fuel climbing mountains?
My non-turbo 300 climbs slow and isn't anything awesome on mpg.
The vehicle is more fuel efficient than your W123 and will render 27-29 mpg on the highway depending on speed. Some have achieved over 30 mpg with it.

It's a perfect vehicle in all respects OTHER than maintenance costs. If you purchase the wrong one (likely), it will devour about $1500 per year in parts to maintain it to original specifications. Going to a mechanic with it is out of the question.

There was a fellow on here who invested over $15K in the vehicle and then sold it for $3500. I personally invested over $6K in one over eight years and then sold it for $2500.

Such a vehicle should never be purchased without a full set of maintenance records. Like most older M/B's, if many parts have not been replaced at the 150-200K mark, YOU will be the one doing that work.

One other point to note: The original aluminum head on the vehicle is subject to cracks if the head was ever overheated in its past. You'd need to be somewhat confident that the head is not cracked. Unfortunately, the symptoms of the cracked head are usually not obvious to the casual observer. The engine can drive out fine but will consume ungodly amounts of coolant and routinely overheat under loads.
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  #9  
Old 08-04-2012, 11:16 AM
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Details on the '86 300SDL; it is only 160k with dealer service up to 110 and other maintenance (belt, ball joints, center link) since.
Bryan: Could you list a few major parts that might have been overlooked on this one?


Hope y'all don't mind the back and forth I throw out others, as I find them:
How about a '92 300SD. Is the OM603 3.5L a big worry?
and would I be getting away from basic DIY skills
__________________
1990 300D 2.5Turbo, two tank WVO, daily driver 300,911
1992 E300 gaser, 150k. Parts only, For Sale

[B]1984 300TD Euro 4speed Sold
1977 300D Elsbett SVO single tank Sold
1981 300TD "Silver bullet" 285k ran B100 Sold
1981-5 300D x 5 cars stripped and reused, parts for sale

Other toys:
1995 Dodge 2500 Cummins 12V P7100 Bosch mechanical pump with 2 tank veggieconversion kit, only 120k!
1959 Cadillac Dad's legacy, needs finishing
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  #10  
Old 08-04-2012, 12:04 PM
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Advice is cheap

You have already gotten some excellent advice in this thread; let me add a couple of comments, from personal experience with the W123, W124, and W210.

You are already familiar with the 123. Simple and easy to care for, tolerant of fuel, drives like a tractor.

The 1995 E300 was the last 124 and has all of the refinements of that model but it also comes with a large (24 gallon) fuel tank that steals 3 inches from the trunk. The back seat is not overly generous and there are only two airbags. The suspension is greatly improved over the 123; it could be considered the first "modern" Mercedes. (Well, the 201 [1984 190D/E] was first but I'm sticking to the so-called E-class.)

The 1996-97 E300 is much more modern [=electronically complicated] and your wife will prefer it; my wife loves hers. It is a little wider and longer and has a much smaller fuel tank (16 gallons) and so a larger trunk and back seat than the 124. You should be able to get two car seats back there.

I would be concerned about the long-term use of WVO in later diesel engines. A second fuel tank will also steal precious space from the trunk. Single tank systems are not advised. As an alternative, I recommend making your WVO into biodiesel. Since you already know how to filter WVO you have the start of a biodiesel converter. Except for changing some hoses and seals [which biodiesel will dissolve] the later engines will accept biodiesel without complaint.

If even the W210 is simply not big enough then you have only a few choices if you wish to stick to diesel. T-sedans (station wagons) were gasoline-only in W210 and the only diesel wagon in the 124 series was the 1987 model; nice ones are getting rare and in any case early 124s are lacking many of the creature comforts that your wife may demand.

Brian can tell you a lot more about the S-class; I've never owned one. The 140 series was available with the 3.5 liter OM603.97 engine, known here as the "rod bender." A nice 350SD/SDL that has been retrofitted with the 3.0 liter OM603.96 engine would be a nice find and would have the size that you need. It may have only two airbags -- on that point I need help. I suppose a 603 could be converted to WVO but it would be happier with biodiesel.

The most important comment in this entire thread is contained in the first two sentences of Brian's post: "Unfortunately, your list of requirements cannot be met with a single M/B vehicle. You cannot have a vehicle that is both significantly larger than the W123 and also durable to take the WVO without complaint."

Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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  #11  
Old 08-04-2012, 12:23 PM
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4 door Dodge 2500 Ram truck with the Cummins 24 valve engine.
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  #12  
Old 08-04-2012, 01:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by engatwork View Post
4 door Dodge 2500 Ram truck with the Cummins 24 valve engine.
After you buy the Ram you only need to repair:
upgraded fuel system to keep the VP happy $600 + install
reman VP44 $1000 + 4 hrs
Gauges $350 + install
Steering Box (Redhead ~ $350 + 2 hrs
3rd gen track bar + bracket ~ 400 + install
Ball joints
Syncros, clutch, hydrolics $2000 if lucky

Then you will have a reliable truck.

Better to get a 12V akin to our 617 if you can find it.

For reliable, comfortable & safe, get a 126 with a 617.

I saw an SD in the yard that was hit from behind. Trunk was pushed up to rear glass which popped out and was in perfect shape as was the trunk lid.

The radiator was pushed into the fan. All 4 doors worked perfectly. No nasty air bags to go off into your face. Wear seat belts.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do.
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  #13  
Old 08-04-2012, 03:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCfriend View Post
Details on the '86 300SDL; it is only 160k with dealer service up to 110 and other maintenance (belt, ball joints, center link) since.
Bryan: Could you list a few major parts that might have been overlooked on this one?


Hope y'all don't mind the back and forth I throw out others, as I find them:
How about a '92 300SD. Is the OM603 3.5L a big worry?
and would I be getting away from basic DIY skills
The vehicle doesn't kill you with "major parts". The engine is durable to 400K and the transmission is durable to 250K..........possibly 300K if you take care of it and don't drive it around town. It's the litany of little things that add up to decent money at the end of the year. As an example, a radiator is about $400. and an alternator is over $200.

I would not consider this vehicle for driving in town. It's dreadfully large, very difficult to park, and somewhat slow to get up and go unless you push it. It's a vehicle that was built for long highway cruises for which it does very well.

Forget the '92 SD for many reasons, the most important being the risk of losing the engine to a connecting rod failure.
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  #14  
Old 08-04-2012, 04:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton View Post
The vehicle doesn't kill you with "major parts". The engine is durable to 400K and the transmission is durable to 250K..........possibly 300K if you take care of it and don't drive it around town. It's the litany of little things that add up to decent money at the end of the year. As an example, a radiator is about $400. and an alternator is over $200.

I would not consider this vehicle for driving in town. It's dreadfully large, very difficult to park, and somewhat slow to get up and go unless you push it. It's a vehicle that was built for long highway cruises for which it does very well.

Forget the '92 SD for many reasons, the most important being the risk of losing the engine to a connecting rod failure.
X2. I have a 300 SDL. Parking in a city spot is more like docking a barge. In town it's dreadfully slow coming off of lights unless you shift down in order to start in 1st gear. I got mine. "cheap" $2500 later it was on the road. The next spring another $2500. I now have a very reliable daily driver to run back and forth to work. 60 miles a day. It all depends on what you want.

Hindsight is always 20/20. I should have bought a used Toyota Avalon for $8k and would have had less headaches with repairing a 23 year old car.

My $.02. YMMV
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86 300SDL. 250,xxx on #14 Head. One eye always on temp gauge.. Cruising towards 300K
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  #15  
Old 08-04-2012, 06:46 PM
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You need to check your tranny or get an '87. My '87 and the half dozen I've driven started in first no matter how gently I got on the pedal. Getting the IP back in shape should help it off the line. No one would have paid as much as they were when new if they were sluggish off the line.

Sixto
87 300D^2

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