my engine is dead. Im going over options. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

C.Doner · #1 08-11-2012, 10:24 PM

this is on 81 300d with 4 speed and 617/952 conversion.
Ive lost compression on #4and#5 cylinder. my last oil change i came up with only 4.5 to 5 quarts. I do believe this to be the cause. I had a leak at the oil filter tower. it got bad. i missed it. bummer. the leakdown test shows its the rings. the engine is done. end of story.
ive got another used engine thats been banged up by someone badly while in storage at an old friends. maybe it was tipped over and moved roughly.
here is the bad
1. the alternator ,fuel pump,IP and more aluminum stuff have been damaged/ Cracked.
2.its been sitting 4 year dry
3. ive lost the flywheel. I didnt know you had to balance back then. my bad.

this engine was one candidate for the car but i chose the other long ago. it is from a reputable salvage yard.
i believe the block and head are good still and presumably will run.

My plan is to buy a short block from metric motors and have the head from the cosmetically beat up engine redone at a local shop in Santa Rosa. He says he can rebuild the head for $600. is that realistic. MetricM is like 1200.
My head is supposed to be good. i just want to have it gone over.
i will have a friend help me put together the motor and install since my shoulder is out for a while.

kerry · #2 08-11-2012, 10:48 PM

Don't know where you got those figures. Metric Motors short block is $4500.

1960mog · #3 08-12-2012, 12:28 AM

I feel your pain.
Something similar is happening to me right now.
I bought a used engine that turned out to be bad.
Looking at about $1000 for parts, doing the rebuild myself.
617 Engine Problem
Keep us informed about your progress.

C.Doner · #4 08-12-2012, 02:18 AM

if all goes as planned i want to go with the rebuild.
short block from Metric. $4500
rebuild my head locally $600
have turbo checked and gone through locally $???
all other components transfer from the old motor.
my friend will install it with my help for $500
plus a bit more for odds and ends im sure
vacuum pump and IP need to be figured out.
ive got a Bosch m pump ill likely use, but i have to have it tested first

vstech · #5 08-12-2012, 08:22 AM

Why use an M pump? unless it is being reworked by the swedes... it's only good for around 85hP...
the stock MW pump is tuned for a turbo, and will give you the 125HP the motor is rated for.

Brian Carlton · #6 08-12-2012, 08:50 AM

Personally, I disagree with every point of your option plan.

The reasons are as follows:

1) $4500. is a huge amount of money to spend on a 30 year old daily driver. For that amount, you could find a complete vehicle that is in very good condition with under 200K miles for which you need to do nothing. It only makes sense to buy a short block if the vehicle is a classic for which it will be handed down to the next generation.

2) Having decided to spend $4500. at Metric, to turn around and have the head "gone over locally" is the height of foolishness. It's almost a certainty that a "local" will screw up the head and the oil consumption will be dramatically higher than you wish. If you're spending $4500. on the block, send your head to Metric and make sure it's done right. You won't save any money by doing it locally unless the local cuts some corners.

3) You already own a short block for which you have determined that it was "roughed up" while in storage. The block is made from cast iron and it doesn't care about "roughed up" on its exterior, provided it wasn't dropped from any height (causing a crack). What you wish to know is the compression on the short block that you have. If it is acceptable, that is the block you should be using.

4) A decent used engine with acceptable compression can be had for around $1K or less. It's quite a bit of work and effort to find one and personally check its compression before purchase (sometimes impossible). However, if you do manage to get one, you're way ahead of the game financially.

Suffice it to say that your plan makes no sense whatsoever even if you have unlimited funds for such a purchase.

ngarover · #7 08-12-2012, 08:57 AM

Shop around CL, find a whole car for under 1000 that runs good swap the motors. Then you have the motor issue solved and a source of all the little parts you could need. Take what you want and then send the car to the scrap yard Or offer back up on CL after you have what you need (someone needs the other stuff) to get a little money back.

Problem solved for a LOT less $$$. Engine pull and swap with a friend can be done in a day.

C.Doner · #8 08-12-2012, 01:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Brian Carlton

Personally, I disagree with every point of your option plan.

The reasons are as follows:

1) $4500. is a huge amount of money to spend on a 30 year old daily driver. For that amount, you could find a complete vehicle that is in very good condition with under 200K miles for which you need to do nothing. It only makes sense to buy a short block if the vehicle is a classic for which it will be handed down to the next generation.

2) Having decided to spend $4500. at Metric, to turn around and have the head "gone over locally" is the height of foolishness. It's almost a certainty that a "local" will screw up the head and the oil consumption will be dramatically higher than you wish. If you're spending $4500. on the block, send your head to Metric and make sure it's done right. You won't save any money by doing it locally unless the local cuts some corners.

3) You already own a short block for which you have determined that it was "roughed up" while in storage. The block is made from cast iron and it doesn't care about "roughed up" on its exterior, provided it wasn't dropped from any height (causing a crack). What you wish to know is the compression on the short block that you have. If it is acceptable, that is the block you should be using.

4) A decent used engine with acceptable compression can be had for around $1K or less. It's quite a bit of work and effort to find one and personally check its compression before purchase (sometimes impossible). However, if you do manage to get one, you're way ahead of the game financially.

Suffice it to say that your plan makes no sense whatsoever even if you have unlimited funds for such a purchase.

Well thats why i posted it here. You are probably right. actually i'm sure you are. its just hard because i love the car and i think it is worth a new engine . i'm going to check my other options. this other engine i have is a maybe or maybe not. i dont know what the dude did to it. I dont think it was dropped. I dont know. the head and block seem to have no damage.
I do have a line on another good 617 turbo runner.
plan b.
1. do a leak down test on 2 engines to determine the best one.
2 reseal chosen motor via mercedes mechanic CK auto. no time for it myself.
3 balance flywheel with crank while crank is out for main seal replacement.(only if engine with lost flywheel is used.) will this work?

C.Doner · #9 08-12-2012, 02:03 PM

What is considered a classic? Not mine i suppose since its not original.