I use 2 cyl oil in my fuel but go quite a bit higher than 2 oz per tank.
Walmart has it for around $11.00 a gallon.

This has been beaten to death about adding engine, ATF, Marvel Mistery, 2 cycle, Bio Diesel, WVO etc... oils. Do a search and you will have hours of enjoyable reading on the subject.

When I was a kid (Iam 68 now) Diesel fuel was an oily fuel, and had a totally different smell to the exhaust. today with this Ultra low Sulfer or what ever they are peddling today, doesn`t have the lubercating qualities it once had. so adding any type of oil will help the lift pump, IP and Injectors.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

UMO?

BioDiesel is supposed to be the best but I'm not sure how it would effect the rubber fuel lines. I usually run Diesel Kleen with cetane boost and occasionally some WMO filtered down to 1 micron using a bag filter.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

because your 240d was designed for 500 ppm sulfur. the new ultra low sulfur diesel which has been the standard since 2007 only contains 15 ppm of sulfur. a huge decrease.

your 240d has spent 25 of the past 30 years on 500 ppm sulfur. only for the past 5 years has it been on ulsd.

the sulfur is there as a lubricant, and a key component in the lubricity of the fuel. if you want your fuel today, to have the same lubricity as before 2007, you have to use an additive.

with significantly reduced lubricity, your injection pump and injectors will experience accelerated wear.

do a google on ulsd and lubricity. the topic has been discussed many many times.

fyi the biggest thing responsible for the change in exhaust smell is the catalytic converter. take the cat off a modern diesel car and the exhaust smell changes significantly. it becomes a lot stronger and more pungent.

You are right about the Catalytic Converters causing a stink. But Iam talking about engines that don`t have one. the exhaust is way different. nothing I own has a Cat. the smell is like sticking you head in a bucket of Chlorene or Chlorox. I don`t know how it can be good for the environment when it`s like breathing poison.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

I ran 50/50 UMO once in my car. The exhaust smelled like the pistons didn't have rings on them at all. All I smelt was free money, though.

__________________
1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors.
2003 S430 - 107K
1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+.
1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K.
Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/309367-warning-all-diesel-owners.html

.

2cycle isn't 2 cycle. TCW-3 (marine) is ashless, which is what you want. Outdoor 2T oils are more robust but have an ash package that you don't want fouling in your engine. The ash is why you don't want to burn ATF or used motor oil...

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (113k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1993 300SD (291k)
1993 300D 2.5T (338k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (265k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K)
1985 300D (233K)

.

I'm using regular 2 cycle.


market present products,TC-W3TM, NMMA,
[API] TC, JASO FC, ISO-L-EGO specification
will give us very very low or none of ash in it.

not comparable with ATF or used engine oil in my modest opinion.


cheers

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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

Sulphur is no lubricant, it is in fact damaging to the engine.

Removing sulphur from fuel does mean that other lubricating components are removed too. That is why lubricants are added to the fuel afterwards.

.

sulfur is or is not a lubricant is matter of ongoing discussions
but, one thing is for sure:

hydrotreating that removes the sulfur
is resulting lower lubricity with ULSD.



cheers
.

__________________
w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded
next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered

500 PPM fuel became available in October of 1993, prior to the reduced particulate standards that became effective on Jan 1, 1994. Prior to that, fuel was 5000 PPM sulphur. The switch caused problems with fuel-lubricated pumps, but had virtually no effect on oil lubricated pumps. The reality is that many of these cars have been running on the 500 PPM fuel for many years, even though they were designed during the era of 5000 PPM fuel. The switch to 15 PPM in Oct, 2006 shouldn't have any additional adverse effects.

if that were true, why then does manual transmission gear oil contain very high levels of sulfur? and why do the manufacturers of gear oil claim that sulfur and phosphorous are used to provide lubricating properties?

that is a good point about oil lubricated pumps. i agree that ulsd is much more an issue on fuel-lubed pumps like the vw tdi engines.

even so, with the general poor quality of diesel fuel in the us, low lubricity, and low cetane number, regularly using a quality fuel additive is relevant and beneficial in my opinion.

My dad has been adding 1/4 quart of like 10w30 oil to each full tank fill up.. Got the idea from one of these threads on here. He says idle seems smoother. Not sure about mpg effects if any.

__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

(4/11/2020: Hi Everyone! I am still taking orders and replying to emails/PMs/etc, I appreciate your patience in these crazy times. Stay safe and healthy!)


82 300SD 145k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k

I think we can all agree that a little extra something or just pure petrol can change the way that the engine "feels" in the seat of our pants.

Out the pump D2 petrol diesel really seems to be the most powerful all around. Loud hard idle is the trade off. Also, brand seems to make a difference. I wont name who..

as far as "additives" i've only ever tried

Off the rack fuel additives- most of them seem to be the same but i tend to prefer red line products. Seems to smooth out the idle a bit and maybe a tad better top end power vs straight pump.

Bio D and VO blends- There seems to be a nice balance that can be achieved with blending fuels. B100 works well, quiet, smooth, smells good but with sacrifice to top end power. Temper the blend with pump stinky and it works well. I usually fill up with B100 whenever I'm around there then just keep topping off with pump so that some B blend will be in there for a while.

When i use VO in the two tank i almost always blend with stinky. usually 3 VOs : 1 stinky works best for me. Seems to help the low end and with the filters.

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Current fleet
2006 E320 CDI
1992 300D - 5speed manual swapped

former members
1984 300D "Blues Mobile"

1978 300CD "El Toro"