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#31
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I generally see a small increase in power when using oil in the fuel. New or UMO, it makes a difference. I also see a few MPG better fuel economy even after taking into account the amount of oil that was added.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
#32
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Quote:
SRY guys just could not resist
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w126 500SEC gen II euro, powered by OM617 turbo stolen from 84 300SD 2.88 diff,EGR blinded next wish/project: w114 coupe OM603 powered |
#33
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24 valve Cummiins have a deserved reputation for losing injection pumps which results in many threads on how to protect the pumps. 3 things seem to help most. More fuel volume and known higher, steady fuel pressure and lube.
The concensus on the Cummins forums is 2-stroke at 1oz/gallon seems to work. They also increase fuel line size from 1/4" to 1/2 and pressure to the IP from 5# under load to 10 - 17#. The IP on the SD isn't nearly as tempermental as the one on the Cummins.
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85SD 240K & stopped counting painted, putting bac together. 84SD 180,000. sold to a neighbor and member here but I forget his handle. The 84 is much improved from when I had it. 85TD beginning to repair to DD status. Lots of stuff to do. |
#34
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I copied the below from one of that addative threads:
"I have done extensive record keeping about what improves the mileage on my N14 Cummins, as I am a long-haul truck driver. During the $4.50 plus days, I was going crazy trying everything to increase my mileage above 5.5 mpg. The only thing that consistently worked, was to use an upper cylinder lubricant in the correct amounts. I used a gallon of Lucas, or 1/2 gallon of 2-stroke oil for approximately 300 gals. They were the only products that consistently raised my fuel mileage and quieted the engine down. However, since 2-stroke oil doesn't have an injector cleaner, I had to put that in, either as a dedicated cleaner, or switch to the actual Lucas (or USA Lube) at least once every six fillups. ATF made no difference on my fuel mileage or quieting down the engine, but worked as an injector cleaner, in the right amounts. Unfortunately, the ultra low sulfur diesel does not perform as well on our older MBZ or heavy-duty truck engines, necessitating a regular dose of upper cylinder lubricant. However, I have noticed that Bio-diesel does quiet things down, if at least B11, but didn't make a difference in mileage, and maybe a bit less power." Back to Me; the above is a Direct Injection type Engine.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#35
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unfortunately i don't think this quote is terribly useful, since the author didn't specify what additives he actually compared. we know he tried lucas, we know he tried 2-stroke oil, we know he tried atf, and we know he tried biodiesel. but that's it.
so his claim of "the only thing that worked" doesn't mean too much, since we have no idea what else he tried. there are a dozen off the shelf additives, and a dozen more that are mail-order or commercial bulk only. all we know from this quote is that lucas and 2-stroke are both better than atf, at least when it comes to miles per gallon. and that biodiesel quiets the engine at idle. anyone ought to guess that conclusion, since both lucas and 2-stroke are designed as fuel additives while atf is not. and everyone who's used bio has reported a quieter engine. nothing new or insightful here. Quote:
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#36
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Quote:
Even the Spicer Addative Test for wear scar did not try every possible addative available. Also more to the point I did not see ATF in the list of stuff tested. If I had a choice of using ATF or 2 Stroke Oil I would rather use something that was made to burn cleanly in an Engine; and, the ATF is not made to do that.
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84 300D, 82 Volvo 244Gl Diesel |
#37
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agreed!
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#38
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I have learned that older Diesel engines will burn almost any kind of oil be it petroleum based, plant based or animal based.
I have also noticed that ATF will burn cleanly and does a good job of cleaning injectors, delivery valves and injection pumps. The lubrication qualities are better than ULSD but not as good as other oils. I usually run Diesel Kleen out of habit and I like the cleaning qualities of it. It has been a standard for many IDI owners, not just the MB variety. It has never done me wrong. Biodiesel in small quantities has been tested as the best lubrication additive but it can have an effect on rubber lines and seals; this being the main reason I do not run it aside from availability. 2 stroke oil is another good candidate. I should run it but I need to get out of my habit of running DK as my main cetane booster. Adding both wouldn't hurt. Actually, adding all of these options wouldn't hurt your engine as far as lubrication and combustion go. If I had to fill up with ULSD and couldn't find any off the shelf lubricity additives, I would grab a bottle of engine oil or ATF, maybe both and add those to the tank. Once you remove the EGR valve from a car that has been run on pump diesel all its life and see the nasty crud that lives in the intake system, you will soon realize that your perfectly maintained engine is not as clean as you think it is, so if you are thinking UMO and additives can kill an engine, pull off your EGR and let me know what you find. Your car has likely been breathing in crankcase gasses and exhaust, aka - engine oil and unburnt fuel, for the last 30 years. Stick your finger in past the EGR port and you may feel the oily sludge that is waiting to enter the intake valves.
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1991 F250 super-cab 7.3 IDI. (rebuilt by me) Banks Sidewinder turbo, hydroboost brakes, new IP and injectors. 2003 S430 - 107K 1983 300SD - Tanoshii - mostly restored ~400K+. 1983 300SD - Good interior. Engine finally tamed ~250K. Monark Nozzle Install Video - http://tinyurl.com/ptd2tge |
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