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  #1  
Old 08-16-2012, 09:47 PM
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w123 Manual Climate Control problem

I have taken the center console apart to replace what appeared to be a broken and hard to turn fan switch. In removing the old switch, I discovered a control cable connected to the fan switch with the other end going back into the bottom of the evaporator box. It appears that when selecting different fan speed setting the dial also moves a cable. I suspect that the other end moves a flap within the evaporator box. The problem is that this cable is stuck and doesn't move which is not allowing the switch to be moved either.
The broken bracket in the attached pic is a left over from the PO. I have a new bracket coming from Phil, but this will break again if not fixed.
Does anybody have an idea of what's going on ?

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w123 Manual Climate Control problem-picture-004.jpg   w123 Manual Climate Control problem-picture-006.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 08-17-2012, 05:08 AM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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I suggest trying oil on the cable first. if that does not work follow the cable down to wherever it goes to activate and try to wiggle it loose.
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  #3  
Old 08-17-2012, 10:02 AM
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Thanks t walgamuth. I agree on oiling the cable with something like Kroll lubricating oil. I had a thought about this cable being stuck. The cable goes into the evaporator box towards the bottom. I was reading about the A/C drain being clogged from leaves and other debris. If this happened water would leak out of the evaporator housing, go down the tranny tunnel and wind up on the floor. With that said, prehaps the flap which is controlled by the bowden cable could have been submersed underwater and caused the cable to rust up and over time, sieze up ?
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Old 08-17-2012, 11:58 PM
cfh cfh is offline
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Open up that switch and you'll find a flexible wire with plastic beads that can break and jam up the switch. You can remove it and substitute a hard wire bent into a curve (a heavy paper clip will do).
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Old 08-19-2012, 07:07 AM
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Thanks cfh. The cable and the wire are still intact, just the wire section of the cable is frozen and will not move. Do you know what this cable controls? Currently I put lubricating oil in the the white plastic bead of the cable hoping this will free up the corrosion or whatever is causing it not to move. I'll use some needle knose plyers and try to get the wire to move within the jacket. Any other suggestions come short of removing the dash and evap housing ?
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  #6  
Old 08-19-2012, 08:11 PM
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My 82 240D did the same thing. The cable routes to the evap box and allows fresh air into the box between "off" position and fan speed 1, 2 or 3. I too replaced my switch only to have stiff resistance. I finally took a hacksaw blade and cut into the cable partially and it freed up instantly! Mind you, I only cut PARTIALLY into this cable. Apparently the cable was frozen, the cut allowed movement, no ill effects, and works smooth and easy.
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:25 AM
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tomee, so you cut the cable jacket and did not sever the wire cable. How did you know where to cut the jacket ? Was there some indicator of where it was frozen ?

Greg
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Old 08-20-2012, 10:36 AM
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I had the same problem. I think the cable is kind of expensive $30-40 but considering you have to take off the entire console to get to it I definitely recommend replacing it instead of oiling it.

The cable does move an air vent. It's an easy replacement but again all the effort is getting the console out and back in.
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  #9  
Old 08-20-2012, 11:44 AM
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Yes techno, I assume that would be an easy replacement, although I've already got the center console out, I'm trying to avoid pulling the dash and evap housing off the firewall.

Last edited by steeleygreg; 08-20-2012 at 02:43 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-20-2012, 11:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steeleygreg View Post
Do you know what this cable controls?
Others have already answered this, and I'm just confirming that Yes, the cable loops to the back side of the evaporator box and controls the fresh air flap.

So either the cable itself is stuck or the flap is stuck. Either way, the fixes related here may save you some time and pain.
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Old 08-20-2012, 02:44 PM
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anghrist, I agree and that's what I'm hoping for.
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  #12  
Old 08-20-2012, 06:18 PM
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You don't need to pull the dash and evap housing off. Just follow the cable. I did this a while ago and I think I accessed the flap after taking the glove box out.
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  #13  
Old 08-20-2012, 11:05 PM
cfh cfh is offline
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Steeleygreg, at this point it would be worth the effort to go ahead and pull the a/c cabinet - sure, you have to pull the dash; but you're already at least half way there (find D Morrison's thread on that it's very good). It will be a lot easier to sort your cable issue and you can also properly clean you evaporator - it is guaranteed to be partially clogged and you'll greatly improve the performance of your a/c (though that might not be as big of an issue in MD as it is here in TX). You'd have to evacuate and recharge the system, but that's not such a big deal. If you decide to go that route get a new drier - after-markets can be had cheap.

While you're at it with the cabinet out put some Dynamat or other soundproofing in - makes a nice difference.
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Old 08-20-2012, 11:23 PM
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I was going to say that, but didn`t think he would go that far into it.

If you do pull the unit and clean things up, might as well replace the deteriorated foam on all the doors.

X2 on the Dynamat.

Charlie
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Old 08-21-2012, 07:22 AM
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Thanks cfh, I used DMorrison's thread as the blue print for getting the car to where it is now. Great advice. For me and others who live near the Chesapeake bay, the A/C is important for about 2-3 months out of the year. The humidity is a killer. I'm sure the A/c season is longer it Texas! As for the Dynamat, that's a good idea, but due to an accident which happened over the weekend to my other MB, which is a daily driver and now suffers from a hit and run. So I need to get this car back together and on the road. The accident car is going in the shop and be laid up for a month with other repairs such as a fixing loose steering and all new bushings, LCA,UCA for the car.
As for removing the Dash. I toyed with that idea more than once. I suspect the evaporator and housing to be in a state of 30 years of crud build up and deteriorated foam but at the moment, I've got to get this back on the road. To do this it needs a new brake master cylinder and a new front oil seal. The PO over-filled the car with oil and blew out the front seal.
As for the cable, yes the Kroll oil worked. I also wiggled and flexed the cable so as to free any rust within the cable jacket. Used some needle nose plyers to grab the hooked end of the cable and the wire moved and you could hear the flap in the evap housing move. Put some more oil on or in the white cable bead, propped it up so the oil would run down the cable and am letting it soak over-night. I suspect that I should have free movement in the morning and without resistance. If not, then I may be in trouble

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